L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano N e a p o l i t a n c o o k s d o n ' t like to waste a g o o d p o t o f p a s t a , s o when there's a bowl left from lunch, dinner turns it into something new: a golden r o u n d y o u c a n c u t i n wedges, eat hot or cold, and carry to work the next day. I am talking about frittata di pasta, also called fritta- ta di maccheroni. Naples "pasta omelette" is as simple as it sounds: pasta bound with eggs and cheese a n d f r i e d u n t i l c r i s p , b u t believe me when I say there i s p l e n t y o f c h a r m – a n d taste! –in this balance made of a crunchy outside and a soft, never-dry inside. The idea is old, practical, and still perfect for busy weeks. It's easy to imagine how frittata di pasta was born as a q u i n t e s s e n t i a l l y h o m e dish: food was never cheap enough to be thrown away, and eggs stretched a little food a long way. Families l e a r n e d t h a t y e s t e r d a y ' s spaghetti, already seasoned, worked best, because they absorb the eggs while releas- ing a bit of starch in the pan, then set into slices you could stack in wax paper. That's why the dish moved out of the kitchen and into daily l i f e : s c h o o l s n a c k s , t r a i n rides, picnics, Ferragosto at the shore, you name it, frit- t a t a d i p a s t a h a s a p l a c e everywhere. And then, it's so versatile, because it tastes good warm, but it travels well cold, and it doesn't fall apart when you cut it. There isn't a single recipe t o m a k e o u r f r i t t a t a , b u t some essentials are always t h e s a m e : c o o k e d p a s t a , eggs, and cheese; spaghetti i s c l a s s i c , b u t b u c a t i n i , mezze maniche, or any long shape cut in shorter lengths works just fine. Now, one important note: the pasta must be very al dente if you've just cooked it, or simply cool if it's leftover. The cheese does two jobs, because it both flavors and gives structure to the dish, and that's why Neapolitans usually like to use two vari- eties, one that melts gently (like scamorza or provola) and one that seasons (like parmigiano or pecorino). F r o m t h e r e , y o u c a n g o bianca, which is clean and eggy, or rossa, which uses p a s t a t o s s e d i n t o m a t o sauce. If you fancy, you can a d d d i c e d s a l a m e o r pancetta, peas, sautéed zuc- chini, chopped parsley: in other words, be as creative as you wish. Let's make it! For four people, you need: 1 1 o z d r y s p a g h e t t i ( o r about 5-5 and a half cups of cooked spaghetti) 4 large eggs 3½ oz scamorza or pro- vola, diced (about 1 cup) 2 oz finely grated parmi- giano- r eggiano ( about ⅔ cup, lightly packed) 3 ½ o z d i c e d s a l a m i o r pancetta (about ¾ cup) Kosher salt Black pepper Olive oil for the pan If your pasta is freshly cooked, drain it very al dente and cool it quickly on a tray. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with a pinch of salt and a good grind of pepper, then whisk in the grated parmi- giano; add the pasta and toss until every strand is glossy. Fold in the salume and the d i c e d c h e e s e . T h e m i x should look loose but not soupy; if it seems dry, an extra egg can help. Heat a wide nonstick skil- let with a thin film of olive oil. Use a 12-inch skillet with a flat base of about 10– 10½ inches for the right thickness so the center sets before the crust darkens. When the oil shimmers, p o u r i n t h e m i x t u r e a n d spread it evenly with a fork, lifting the pasta here and there so the egg runs under- neath. Give it 1 minute over lively heat to set the bottom, t h e n l o w e r t h e h e a t a n d cover. Let it cook gently for about 15 minutes. You'll hear a faint hiss from the edges, and the top will look set but moist. Slide a spatula around the sides to make sure nothing sticks. Now flip: set a flat plate over the pan, invert quickly, and slide the frittata back in so the pale side can brown. C o o k u n c o v e r e d f o r f i v e minutes more. A little move- ment in the center is fine: carryover heat will finish the job. Slide it onto a board and let it rest for a couple of min- utes before cutting. Serve it in wedges with a salad if it's dinner, or let it cool com- pletely for lunch boxes. It will slice cleanly once cold. If you made it rossa, the color will be a warm red-gold; if bianca, it will be pale with browned edges. Some hints to make your frittata di pasta spectacu- lar… salt lightly: the cheese and any salume will season the eggs, plus you are sup- p o s e d t o h a v e s a l t i n t h e cooked pasta already! Don't overstuff add-ins, as too much moisture will make t h e c e n t e r g u m m y . M a k e sure to keep the first minute o f h e a t s t r o n g , t h e n b e patient on low so the eggs set without scorching. A note to yourself: if flip- p i n g m a k e s y o u n e r v o u s , build confidence by making two smaller rounds in an 18–20 cm pans as they're easier to turn. You can also bake the mixture in a well- oiled, oven-safe skillet at 190°C for about 20–25 min- u t e s , f i n i s h i n g u n d e r t h e broiler for color. W e s p o k e a b o u t v a r i a - tions, which can come both from whatever type of pasta you had left over or ingredi- e n t s c h o i c e . A f r i t t a t a d i pasta rossa has added toma- to sauce or even ragù, which you should add to the pasta before you stir in the eggs (in case you are not using left- overs); for a verde touch, fold in a handful of peas or diced, pan-seared zucchini. You can also swap cheeses b a s e d o n w h a t y o u h a v e : m o z z a r e l l a w o r k s i f y o u d r a i n i t w e l l , s m o k e d scamorza gives a deeper fla- vor and provola brings a soft pull. A spoonful of milk in the eggs makes the crumb a bit tender, but it isn't essen- tial. If you like a pronounced crust, dust the surface of the p a n w i t h b r e a d c r u m b s before you pour in the mix- ture; they toast into a thin shell that helps slicing. I f y o u n e e d a p l a c e t o start, follow the base recipe o n c e w i t h o u t a d d i t i o n s , using just buttered spaghetti or any other shape you have, then adjust from there. Keep notes on pan size, heat, and timing on your stove because you know how it is, every kitchen has its own rhythm. S o o n y o u ' l l b e m a k i n g i t f r o m m e m o r y , t h e w a y i t should be: easy, practical, and ready whenever a bowl of pasta remains after lunch. CHIARA D'ALESSIO The good thing about frittata di pasta is how easily it can be sliced and preserved (Photo: Salmassara/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES From Naples, with leftovers: frittata di maccheroni

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