L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano C l o s e y o u r e y e s , toss a dart at a m a p o f I t a l y – zing! No matter i t s t r a j e c t o r y , you'll hit the target of yet another enchanting village or t o w n f u l l o f m a r v e l s y o u never knew you needed to experience. Exploring Italy can be this w a y f o r t h e o p e n - m i n d e d traveler. No need for concern if you've never seen it on a social media reel; every vil- lage, town, borgo, or com- mune has beauty and value to share with those willing to slow down and venture in. The small Umbrian town of Bevagna is one such place that would have been missed had I not had a friendly con- versation with a barista in n e a r b y S p o l e t o . T h e l u s h U m b r i a n V a l l e y b e t w e e n Assisi and Montefalco is a t e r r i f i c a l l y b e a u t i f u l a r e a crisscrossed by tranquil bike trails mingling with gentle vineyards. As if plopped amid this solely for beauty's sake, Bevagna sits proudly in the open valley fittingly flaunting her charm and ancestral her- itage. The locale is unusual for an ancient town; the vast majority perch high on hill- t o p s t o a f f o r d p r o t e c t i o n from foes in days of old. Not Bevagna. As the adage goes, it's location-location-loca- tion; where the strategic Cli- tunno River and the inte- g r a l V i a F l a m i n i a intersected was deemed per- fect for a Roman stronghold, and thus the ancient com- mercial hub of Mevania was established around 90 BC. It was a relatively stable era, but nonetheless a defensive Roman wall was put in place to encircle the town. Eventu- ally it became largely incor- porated into medieval fortifi- cations which are still intact today. Rome's influence on this now sleepy town remains a part of her charm and is a t r e a t f o r t h o s e w h o e n j o y ancient history. Portions of the age-old wall minus any medieval modification are still visible in certain loca- t i o n s . A s t r o l l a l o n g V i a Gaita San Pietro allows up-close-and-personal views of the trademark massive stone blocks making up the original fortified walls. Look a little closer and let your fin- gers explore the still visible chisel marks. E x q u i s i t e l y p r e s e r v e d mosaic floors remain where t h e R o m a n b a t h c o m p l e x once existed. Believed to be t h e f r i g i d a r i u m , m a r b l e walls surround the swirling array of tiny black and white tiles that form an undersea fantasy floor. Magnificent marine creatures and mytho- logical characters, so realistic they seem to move before your eyes, delight the observ- er just as they did over 2,000 years ago. A combination t i c k e t f o r t h e M u s e o d i Bevagna makes a guided tour of the baths possible, along with entrance to the m u s e u m a n d t h e T e a t r o Torti. Incognito remains of the Mevania's Roman theatre still exist, but can be tricky to discover. Incorporated over millennia, newer structures were built over and around the old theater. You can walk the curve of medieval build- ings, tracing the ancient out- l i n e u n t i l y o u r e a c h t h e entrance to the remains of the theater corridors. Go in – the intact passageways are fascinating to experience and bring antiquity to life. L e s s i m a g i n a t i o n i s required to admire the old Roman port structures. Now located under a Dominican convent, the important com- mercial warehouse's barrel- vaulted ceilings still shelter concrete and brick cham- bers, creating a virtual time machine experience. Low light, flickering shadows, and that musty smell of antiquity a d d t o t h e m y s t e r y – n o doubt a ghost or two is shar- ing the tour alongside you. S t e p o u t i n t o t h e f r e s h U m b r i a n a i r a n d w a n d e r Bevagna's truly charming streets. A medieval flair is alive and well here, especial- ly in June during the Mer- cato delle Gaite when full- on medieval life takes over the town. Piazza Filippo Silvestri, the town's main p i a z z a , i s b r e a t h t a k i n g . Noted for its classic design that harmonizes civic and religious buildings, the ele- gance of the piazza is imme- diately inviting. Take a seat on the large stone staircase leading up to the 13th-centu- ry Palazzo dei Consoli. A f t e r a d m i r i n g t h e v i e w , climb the rest of the way up t o p e e k i n s i d e o n e o f U m b r i a ' s s m a l l e s t y e t exquisitely opulent 19th-cen- tury theaters, the Teatro Torti. E n c i r c l i n g t h e p i a z z a s t a n d t h r e e i m p r e s s i v e medieval churches. Dodge the soccer balls typically in- play by local children and cross the piazza to admire at least one. Another notewor- thy church is the Chiesa di San Francesco (13 th cen- tury). Located at the town's highest point where once stood a Roman temple, the austere façade conceals an elegantly redone 17th-centu- ry interior. Beautiful, yes, but what appeals more is the displayed stone said to be that on which St. Francis stood when he preached his oratory to the birds. It's a p e a c e f u l s p o t t o p a u s e a moment and ponder. Bevagna is rich in histori- cal experiences, but seeking real-time pleasure is valu- able, as well. Sidewalk tratto- rias and restaurants scat- tered throughout the town offer proudly crafted local f o o d a n d d r i n k . L u s c i o u s S a g r a n t i n o wine paired with a rich wild boar stew or strangozzi pasta smoth- ered in truffles and butter can bring a smile to the most tired of travelers. Local olive o i l , c u r e d m e a t s , a n d desserts such as rocciata (fruit and nut-filled pastry) won't disappoint, either. W h i l e n o l o n g e r a p o r t town, Bevagna is renowned for her picturesque water features. The confluence of the Timia and Clitunno rivers made a perfect loca- tion for the once-upon-a- time port, today a filled-in area supporting resplendent community gardens. What does remain, though, is the portrait-worthy accolta – a reservoir of contained river water that provided power for a mill, and up until the 1 9 4 0 s s u p p o r t e d a l o c a l l a v a t o i o o r w a s h h o u s e . P a r k n e a r b y i n t h e P a r - c h e g g i o C l i t u n n o – there's plenty of shade and it's a short walk to the arched bridge spanning the Clitunno R i v e r . T h e v i e w f r o m t h e bridge is a great introduction to the accolta. River water spills over the reservoir dam creating a poetic scene of still-water reflections and picturesque waterfalls. The view from the other end of the accolta showcases a mir- rored image of the bridge and is equally enchanting. How did Monet miss this place? Once the communal gath- ering place for the town's women, the accolta fell out of use when electricity and running water became more common post-World War II. Local old-timers still tell sto- ries of the days accompany- i n g t h e i r m o t h e r s t o t h e accolta for washing, gossip, and a swim. A relaxed walk beneath the lavatoio portico makes it easy to imagine the lively scenes that played out here. A half day in Bevagna is a n e x c e l l e n t s i d e t r i p f o r those on Montefalco's wine trail or following St. Francis' footsteps in Assisi. Peaceful, r e s p l e n d e n t w i t h e x p e r i - e n c e s , a n d n e v e r o v e r l y crowded, this little Umbrian gem is an unforgettable place w o r t h t a k i n g t h e t i m e t o enjoy. PAULA REYNOLDS The Cliturno river, in Bevagna (Photo: Marco Ciannarella/Dreamstime) B e v a g n a : R o m a n s t o n e s and timeless streams ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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