L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano B ellano sits qui- etly on the east- e r n s h o r e o f L a k e C o m o , where the lake narrows and the slopes of the Valsassina begin to rise. It has long been a working and cultural hub, less visited than its more famous neighbors but never peripheral. This year, its profile rose further as it hosted the Festival of I Borghi più belli d'Italia, a recognition that highlights towns combining historical value, cultural vitality, and good management of their heritage. The event offered a pretext for travelers to look beyond lesser-known corners of Lake Como's shores, and to explore places that reveal a different side of the lake. If you visit Bellano, you must go to the Orrido di B e l l a n o , a d e e p g o r g e carved over millennia by the P i o v e r n a s t r e a m a s i t descends from the Valsassi- na, characterized by how it cuts through ancient rocks with narrow passages, verti- cal walls, and smooth basins created by swirling water. The origins of the formation go back some 15 million years, when glacial and flu- vial processes began shaping the terrain. Today, a network of metal walkways clings to the rock walls, allowing visi- tors to follow the stream's course into the heart of the c a n y o n . T h e s o u n d o f t h e water intensifies as the path advances, amplified by the stone walls that enclose it. Lighting has been installed discreetly, making evening visits possible and revealing details that daylight often flattens. A recent extension of the walkway reaches all the way to the waterfall, giv- i n g a b r o a d e r v i e w o f t h e g o r g e ' s s t r u c t u r e a n d i t s force. At the entrance stands Ca' d e l D i a v o l , t h e " D e v i l ' s House," an unusual tower- like building whose name and reputation are tied to l o c a l l e g e n d s ; f r e s c o e s depicting a devil figure once adorned its walls, and over time these images, along with the building's position above the churning waters, gave rise to stories of mysterious gatherings and infernal pres- ences. Rather than dismiss- i n g t h e s e t a l e s , t h e l o c a l a d m i n i s t r a t i o n c h o s e t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e m i n t o a broader interpretation of the site: the building has been restored and converted into a small multimedia museum that introduces visitors to the geology of the gorge, the history of Bellano, and the evolution of the local land- scape. Spread over three lev- els, it combines historical material with digital projec- t i o n s , a n i m a t i o n s , a n d immersive installations that give context to what visitors see outside. The descent into the tower leads to viewing platforms over the first sec- tion of the Orrido, linking the building's narrative to the landscape itself. But Bellano is more than j u s t t h e g o r g e . T h e o l d town rises gently from the lakeside, with narrow lanes a n d s t o n e b u i l d i n g s t h a t reflect its long history as a c o m m e r c i a l a n d c u l t u r a l center. Its location at the m o u t h o f t h e V a l s a s s i n a made it a natural meeting point between the moun- tains and the lake, a place where goods, people, and i d e a s c i r c u l a t e d . L o c a l a u t h o r A n d r e a V i t a l i h a s drawn inspiration from the town for many of his novels, anchoring fictional narra- tives in recognizable streets and atmospheres. Visitors planning a trip can combine different ele- ments in half a day or a full day: a walk through the town l e a d s n a t u r a l l y t o t h e e n t r a n c e o f t h e O r r i d o , located just a few minutes from the railway station. The gorge path takes about half a n h o u r t o c o m p l e t e a t a leisurely pace, though many s t a y l o n g e r t o w a t c h t h e c h a n g i n g l i g h t a n d w a t e r m o v e m e n t . T h e m u s e u m inside Ca' del Diavol can be v i s i t e d b e f o r e o r a f t e r , d e p e n d i n g o n o p e n i n g hours. In clear weather, con- tinuing along the lakeside promenade rewards visitors with views across the water to the western shore and the surrounding mountains. The church of Saints Nazaro and Celso and smaller chapels scattered through the town give a sense of its religious and artistic history, while cafés and small restaurants offer the chance to pause without leaving the historic centre. Bellano has a railway sta- tion on the Milan–Tirano line, and ferries connect it with other towns along the lake. There are parking areas close to the centre for those arriving by car. The gorge is accessible most of the year, t h o u g h i t i s p a r t i c u l a r l y i m p r e s s i v e a f t e r r a i n f a l l , when the Pioverna's flow i n c r e a s e s a n d t h e s o u n d reverberates more powerful- ly. Early morning and late afternoon are good times to avoid crowds, while evening visits highlight the lighting s y s t e m i n s i d e t h e g o r g e . Tickets for the Orrido and Ca' del Diavol can be pur- c h a s e d t o g e t h e r , a n d t h e local cultural center provides information about current exhibitions, concerts, and seasonal events. B e y o n d t h e i m m e d i a t e town, the surrounding area offers opportunities for short excursions. Trails lead into t h e V a l s a s s i n a a n d t o panoramic points overlook- i n g t h e l a k e , w h i l e s m a l l h a m l e t s n e a r b y p r e s e r v e traces of rural architecture and agricultural practices that once supported the lake- side economy. These settings remain less visited than the villas and gardens that domi- nate Lake Como's imagery, but they show how closely natural forces and human settlement have been con- nected in this beautiful part of Lombardy. The Orrido is in itself a reminder of this long rela- tionship. Its legends, embod- ied in Ca' del Diavol, tell of h o w p e o p l e h a v e t r i e d t o interpret powerful natural phenomena before science offered explanations. In this context, the museum and walkways represent a con- t e m p o r a r y l a y e r , a t r u e attempt to make these ele- ments accessible and under- standable without erasing their complexity. Bellano has m a n a g e d t h i s b a l a n c e b y integrating interpretation i n t o t h e s i t e r a t h e r t h a n imposing a separate narra- tive. Lake Como is often pre- sented through a narrow lens of villas, gardens, and glam- orous towns, but places like Bellano expand that view. They show that the lake is also a setting of deep geolog- ical processes, working land- scapes, local cultures, and stories. A visit here connects these elements in a compact space: a town, a gorge, a leg- end, a museum, and a view across the water that ties it all together. It is a reminder that even in well-trodden regions, curiosity and atten- tion can lead to discoveries that are both unexpected and entirely real. FRANCESCA BEZZONE Lake Como, as seen from Bellano (Photo: Marcorubino/Dreamstime) Bellano and its Orrido: a different side of Lake Como ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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