L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano M a n y o f u s are famil- i a r w i t h i c o n i c d i s h e s o f Puglia such as orecchiette, burrata, and panzerotti, yet fewer may know about the little pork rolls known as bombette. B o r n i n t h e h e a r t o f Puglia, bombette are com- pact meat parcels filled with c h e e s e , s e a s o n e d s i m p l y , and cooked over wood or on the grill. Their name, which translates as "little bombs," refers to their shape and size but also, we like to think, to the burst of flavor you get when biting into one. As delicious and popular as they are, bombette are a relatively recent addition to A p u l i a n c u i s i n e : m o s t accounts say they were born in the early 1980s, very like- ly in Martina Franca, with o n e v e r s i o n t e l l i n g o f a butcher's wife who experi- m e n t e d w i t h u s i n g t h i n s l i c e s o f p o r k c a p o c o l l o rather than the heavier meat traditionally used, filling t h e m w i t h c h e e s e , a n d r o l l i n g t h e m f o r q u i c k e r c o o k i n g f o r e v e n i n g c u s - tomers. Central to the identity of bombette is the fornello p r o n t o s e t - u p , w h i c h remains a hallmark of the Valle d'Itria butcher-grill e x p e r i e n c e : t h e c o o k i n g arrangement typically fea- tures the rolls skewered and placed in a vertical or semi- vertical oven or grill, rather t h a n d i r e c t l y o v e r f l a m e , w h i c h a l l o w s f a t t o d r i p away without burning and gives a gentle smoky flavor. These fornelli pronti are an Apulian institution, hybrid s p a c e s b e t w e e n b u t c h e r s h o p a n d e a t e r y , w h e r e l o c a l s c h o o s e t h e m e a t directly from the counter, have it cooked on the spot, and eat it fresh off the grill with bread and wine. Each butcher has its own mix of woods for the fire, often oak or olive, lending the bom- bette subtle regional aro- mas. The result is meat that r e m a i n s m o i s t a n d j u i c y , with a molten, creamy cen- ter from the cheese when you bite in. Bombette are del iber atel y smal l ( you'l l never get them bigger than one or two inches) so each roll is consumed in one or two bites, just as tradition dictates. But how do you make a bombetta exactly? The tra- ditional version uses slices o f p o r k c a p o c o l l o ( a l s o known as coppa) from the area, thin enough to cook quickly while staying tender; the filling is typically small cubes or shavings of a local c h e e s e , o f t e n c a n e s t r a t o pugliese or caciocavallo, combined with salt, pepper, a n d s o m e t i m e s g a r l i c o r parsley. Many butcher shops wrap each roll in a slice of pancetta, which bastes the meat dur ing cooking and adds texture and flavor. In recent years, a number of variations have emerged: s o m e b o m b e t t e o m i t t h e cheese for a simpler version, others add chili for a spicier kick and some adapt home- cooking methods by baking o r p a n - f r y i n g i n s t e a d o f using the traditional wood- fire grill. Created as a quick, ready- made dinner to buy at the butcher's, bombette soon became a highlight of local street food. In the towns of the Valle d'Itria, butcher- grill shops serve bombette from late afternoon into the evening, often accompanied b y s i m p l e s i d e s s u c h a s b r e a d a n d r a w o r g r i l l e d v e g e t a b l e s . F o r t r a v e l e r s planning to sample the real t h i n g , y o u r b e s t b e t i s t o head into Martina Franca, Cisternino, or Locorotondo and look for a macelleria w i t h a n i n - h o u s e g r i l l o r both butcher and braceria combined. You'll often see a s i g n r e a d i n g c a r n i a l l a brace or fornello pronto, and you can watch the skew- ers cooking as you walk in. In these places, you'll typi- cally order a mixed tray of b o m b e t t e ( s o m e t i m e s together with other skew- e r e d m e a t s n a t i v e t o t h e region) and share it at sim- ple tables outside the butch- er shop. Outside Italy, enthusiasts should keep an eye on Ital- ian butcher-bistros, street- food events, or regional pop- ups advertising "bombette pugliesi" on the menu. And, for those who like to cook at h o m e : w i t h g o o d - q u a l i t y pork, a firm melting cheese, herbs, a pan or the oven, you can replicate this deli- cious part of modern Puglia in your own kitchen! If you want to try, follow the recipe below, which we adapted from the famous Cucchiaio d'Argento, one of the "bibles" of Italian cui- sine! B o m b e t t e P u g l i e s i (Puglian Pork Rolls) S o f t p o r k r o l l s s t u f f e d with cheese and pancetta, b o m b e t t e p u g l i e s i a r e a beloved classic of Apulian cooking; traditionally grilled over charcoal skewers dur- ing village feasts, they can also be pan-seared at home until golden and juicy: sim- ple, rustic, and irresistible! Ingredients (Serves 4) 8 slices pork neck (capoc- ollo), pounded thin 8 slices pancetta 3 oz (about ¾ cup) semi- aged caciocavallo cheese, shaved or thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 T b s p c h o p p e d f r e s h parsley 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper Preparation I f y o u r b u t c h e r h a s n ' t a l r e a d y d o n e s o , l i g h t l y p o u n d t h e p o r k s l i c e s t o m a k e t h e m t h i n n e r . L a y t h e m o n a b o a r d a n d t o p e a c h w i t h a s l i c e o f pancetta, a few shavings of caciocavallo, and a pinch of the garlic-parsley mix. Roll each slice tightly into a small bundle and secure it w i t h a t o o t h p i c k . S e a s o n with salt and pepper. H e a t t h e o l i v e o i l i n a non-stick pan. Add the rolls and sear for about 10 min- u t e s o v e r m e d i u m h e a t without turning them. Carefully turn and cook for another 1 5 – 2 0 m i n - utes, until browned on all sides and cooked through. Serve hot, with salad or roasted potatoes and, as in Puglia, preferably in good company. If you want to enjoy the full experience, remember that locals rarely enjoy bom- b e t t e w i t h o u t a g l a s s o f regional red wine. A young Primitivo di Gioia del Colle or a smooth Negroamaro from Salento both balance t h e r i c h n e s s o f t h e m e a t with their ripe fruit and gen- tle spice, while Susumaniel- lo, darker and more mineral, adds an elegant contrast to the smoky grill flavors. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Bombette skewers: have you ever tried them? (Photo: Angelo D'Amico/Istock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES So good, these bombette: how Apulia's little meat rolls became a modern classic

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