L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 27, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano I f t h e r e i s a n y t h i n g with a secure place on I t a l y ' s C h r i s t m a s tables, that's panet- t o n e . Y e t , i n r e c e n t years, it has taken on a role well beyond its seasonal roots, as a growing n e t w o r k o f competitions, festivals, and professional awards has turned this traditional cake into a benchmark for contemporary Italian pastry. What happens in Italy is closely watched abroad, and the same names that win in Rome, Naples, or Verona now appear in American holiday gift guides and on the shelves of the best stores. This inter- section between craftsman- ship, competitive excellence, and international demand offers a clear picture of how panettone has been evolving, both as a cultural symbol and as a global product. The rise of these contests mirrors a broader shift in con- sumer habits, as shown by market data from trade fairs and industry analyses, which indicate consistent growth in i n t e r e s t f o r a r t i s a n b a k e d goods, especially those pro- d u c e d w i t h n a t u r a l s o u r - dough, high-quality ingredi- ents, and long, controlled fermentation. The gap with industrial production is wide a n d e a s y t o p e r c e i v e , a n d many pastry chefs now treat panettone more as a way to show their ability and skills than a simple Christmas cake, which explains why panettone competitions attract so much attention at both national and international levels. Among the most important events we find Panettone Maximo in Rome, which has expanded steadily in scale and ambition, with the 2025 e d i t i o n b r i n g i n g t o g e t h e r almost one hundred panettoni and dozens of pastry shops from across Italy. Tastings, themed stands, and a dedicat- ed Christmas market accom- panied the competition itself, which was judged by pastry world champions and experts in Italian leavened cakes. The range of finalists, from Lazio to Puglia and several northern regions, confirms that high- level panettone production is now widespread throughout the country rather than con- centrated near Milan, as it once was. Naples offers a different yet equally influential plat- f o r m t h r o u g h t h e W o r l d Panettone Championship, held at the Gustus food fair. The scale here is internation- al, as finalists arrive from Italy and abroad, submitting c l a s s i c v e r s i o n s , c r e a t i v e interpretations, and even savory adaptations. The rules follow strict standards, espe- cially for the traditional cate- gory, which must adhere to precise guidelines regarding sourdough, butter, candied fruit, and fermentation tech- niques. The jury is composed of internationally recognized pastry masters who evaluate a p p e a r a n c e , s t r u c t u r e , a r o m a , a n d b a l a n c e w i t h technical precision. Italian pastry chefs continue to dom- inate the competition, but the growing number of foreign finalists shows how panet- tone has developed a global competitive landscape. M a s t r o P a n e t t o n e d'Élite was introduced by Goloasi as an advanced ver- s i o n o f i t s l o n g - r u n n i n g panettone competition; its first "d'Élite" edition was held at Villa Arvedi near Verona and adopted an approach very much focused on the panettone-making process: finalists were required to pro- duce their panettone on site during a supervised session, allowing the jury to observe every stage from sourdough management to kneading, resting, baking, and final pre- sentation. The aim was to evaluate consistency, skill, and method rather than rely- ing solely on the finished product. While Italy refines and multiplies its competitions, t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s h a s b e c o m e a n i m p o r t a n t external barometer. In recent years, American publi- cations have shown increas- ing interest in Italian artisan panettone, and Forbes in particular releases annual lists of the best panettoni to buy or gift. These selections often highlight the same pro- ducers awarded in Italian contests, including Olivieri 1882, Fiasconaro, Scarpa- to, and other high-end bak- eries. The American market values a combination of nat- ural ingredients, freshness, traceability, and a level of craftsmanship that stands apart from mass-market holi- d a y c a k e s ; b r a n d i n g a n d packaging also play a signifi- cant role, as panettone has become a popular premium gift item that fits well into the American holiday gifting tra- dition. This trend is reinforced by the presence of Italian bak- eries and specialty shops in major US cities, as well as online platforms that ship artisan panettone nation- wide; in fact, some producers, such as Olivieri 1882, now maintain dedicated US e- commerce sections where prices frequently exceed one hundred dollars per loaf. Col- laborations with fashion and design brands, from Dolce & Gabbana to Roberto Cavalli, further enhance the product's appeal by connecting it with Italy's broader reputation for style. When considered in this light, panettone is as much a cake as it is a presti- gious fashion statement. But, as much as the world of panettone has been chang- ing – candied fruit or cream, pistachio or hazelnut glaze, chocolate chips or sultana, traditional or designer? – one thing has never come under scrutiny: panettone is for Christmas. Or is it? Yes, because pro- ducers have raised the ques- tion of whether panettone can become a year-round product. Sales data continue to show that consumption is concentrated in the last three months of the year, both in Italy and abroad, but there are attempts to extend its sea- sonality, mostly relying on new formats, lighter summer versions, and recipes that incorporate panettone into b r e a k f a s t s , d e s s e r t s , a n d brunch dishes. Some bak- eries, particularly in New Y o r k , o f f e r p a n e t t o n e throughout the year and pro- mote it through creative uses such as French toast, gelato accompaniments, or tiramisù variations. These efforts test the balance between tradition and innovation, exploring w h e t h e r t h e p r o d u c t c a n a d a p t w i t h o u t l o s i n g i t s strong cultural association with Christmas. The current landscape, in any case, suggests that panet- tone is experiencing parallel evolutions: in Italy, it is firm- ly established as a reference point of professional pastry, with competitions that refine techniques, celebrate regional diversity, and create networks among artisans. Abroad, it is gaining ground as a premium gift and a symbol of Italian gastronomic excellence, ben- efiting from both the reputa- tion of its producers and the appetite of international mar- kets for high-quality artisan p r o d u c t s . F a r f r o m b e i n g opposite, these two move- ments in fact reinforce each other: Italian competitions amplify the visibility of top pastry chefs, while foreign demand increases the per- ceived value of their work. Such dynamics raise fur- t h e r q u e s t i o n s a b o u t t h e future identity of panettone. Its historical link to Christ- mas remains strong and is l i k e l y t o p e r s i s t , y e t t h e increasing presence of festi- vals, rankings, gift guides, and cross-border collabora- tions points toward a broader role. Whether this expansion will transform it into a truly a l l - y e a r p r o d u c t r e m a i n s uncertain; what is clear is that panettone is no longer confined to tradition alone; it h a s b e c o m e a m a r k e r o f craftsmanship, competition, and international recogni- tion, in an evolution that reflects both the creativity of Italian pastry chefs and the global appetite for products with a clear cultural signa- ture. FRANCESCA BEZZONE Artisanal panettoni make a perfect Christmas present (Photo Gustavo Andrade/Dreamstime) From Rome to New York: the new life of artisan panettone LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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