L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 11, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano P e t t o l e s t a r t a p p e a r i n g i n A p u l i a n kitchens as the h o l i d a y s a p p r o a c h , a n d i n s o m e towns, they show up even e a r l i e r : w a l k t h r o u g h a neighborhood in Taranto, B a r i , o r B r i n d i s i o n a November morning and you may hear the soft rhythm of d o u g h b e i n g s h a p e d a n d dropped into hot oil. These fritters are simple pieces of leavened dough, fried until crisp outside and soft with- in, but they are one of the region's clearest signs that w i n t e r c e l e b r a t i o n s a r e near. However, pettole don't c o m e a t t h e s a m e t i m e everywhere: Taranto pre- pares them on 22 November for Santa Cecilia, while other towns wait for San Martino, the Immaculate C o n c e p t i o n , C h r i s t m a s Eve, or New Year's Eve. As much as the dates may shift, the meaning of enjoying the first batch of pettole in the year is always the same: the festive season is on. P e t t o l e a r e c o m m o n across the region, and their basic recipe doesn't change ( f l o u r , w a t e r , y e a s t , a n d salt); however, their names and some small variations in ingredients may appear here and there: in Salento, for instance, they are called pittule, while people in Bari know them as popizze. Many food writers con- sider them part of Italy's cucina povera, those dishes made of everyday ingredi- ents, minimal equipment, and a result often tied to gatherings more than rou- tine meals: this is why we c a n s a y t h e i r s i m p l i c i t y turned them into a ritual food, perfect for this time of the year. Y o u m a y w o n d e r h o w t h e y c a m e a b o u t , a n d because Italy is a land of creativity and wonder, there a r e p l e n t y o f l e g e n d s t o e x p l a i n i t . H o w e v e r , t h e best-known is set in Taran- t o , a n d i t s a y s t h a t o n c e u p o n a t i m e , a w o m a n p r e p a r i n g b r e a d o n t h e morning of Santa Cecilia left her dough to listen to the zampognari in the street. When she returned, it had risen too much to shape, so to avoid wasting it, she tore pieces and fried them, dis- covering a new treat. There is also a Salento version, which features Saint Eliza- beth forgetting her dough while speaking with the Vir- gin Mary. Of course, these are not historical accounts, y e t t h e y p r o b a b l y r e f l e c t how pettole were "invent- ed:" as an improvised solu- tion to avoid waste. I n T a r a n t o , t h e l i n k between Santa Cecilia (the patron saint of musi- c i a n s ) a n d p e t t o l e h a s grown into a civic habit: on t h e d a y , m u s i c i a n s s t a r t playing before dawn, and families respond by mixing their first batch of dough. K i t c h e n s s t a r t w a r m i n g s l o w l y i n t h e e a r l y h o u r s while dough rises under a cloth, and the first fritters h i t t h e o i l a s t h e h o u s e wakes up. T h e i r i n g r e d i e n t s , w e have seen, are the same as those for bread – a feat that their many origin legends also show – but there are differences in texture and consistency: pettole's dough i s s o f t , s t i c k y , a n d m o r e hydrated than bread dough; some cooks add boiled pota- to for moisture; others use a pinch of sugar to support fermentation. Once risen, the mixture is beaten until elastic and dropped into hot oil (traditionally, olive oil) by hand or spoon. But how do they taste? Well, pettole can be both savory and sweet. When plain, they are usually eaten i m m e d i a t e l y , s o m e t i m e s w i t h a s p r i n k l e o f s a l t . Anchovies, capers, olives, or small pieces of cod may be added to the dough in many towns, and families in Bari often fill or top them after f r y i n g , i n c l u d i n g w i t h cooked cauliflower. Sweet versions are rolled in sugar or coated with honey, mosto c o t t o , o r v i n c o t t o . C i t r u s zest or cinnamon are also common and very seasonal. Because the ingredients a r e i n e x p e n s i v e a n d t h e preparation is easy to share, pettole are very often served at gatherings, so don't be surprised if you find them in parish halls, neighborhood events, and holiday dinners. Across all variations, pet- t o l e s h o w h o w o r d i n a r y , simple ingredients can gain m e a n i n g t h r o u g h t i m i n g a n d t r a d i t i o n : n o t h i n g i s easier and cheaper to get than flour, water, and yeast, yet they become part of a s e a s o n a l r i t u a l m a d e o f patience, habit, and antici- pation. And as it often hap- pens in Italy, every family has its own version, so don't be surprised if Aunt Cateri- na and Grandma Giovanna make them with different stuff! Traditional pettole Makes 25–30 fritters Ingredients 3 ½ c u p s a l l - p u r p o s e flour 1 ¾ to 2 cups lukewarm water (start with 1 ¾ cups; add more if needed) 2 t e a s p o o n s a c t i v e d r y yeast 1 s m a l l , b o i l e d p o t a t o , mashed (optional but tradi- tional) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt Oil for frying (peanut or vegetable oil; about 4 cups) Method In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast and sugar in the lukewarm water. Add the mashed potato if using, then mix in the flour and salt. S t i r v i g o r o u s l y w i t h a wooden spoon or your hand u n t i l t h e d o u g h i s s o f t , sticky, and elastic. It should be looser than bread dough. C o v e r a n d l e t r i s e i n a warm place until doubled, about 1½–2 hours. Heat about 2 inches of oil (170–180°C / 340–360°F) in a deep pan. Using a damp hand or a spoon, drop small pieces of dough into the hot oil. F r y u n t i l g o l d e n o n a l l sides, turning once. D r a i n o n p a p e r t o w e l s a n d s e r v e i m m e d i a t e l y : plain, sweetened (sugar or h o n e y ) , o r s a v o r y w i t h anchovies or olives. CHIARA D'ALESSIO A plate of freshly fried pettole (Photo: Anna Fedorova/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES When pettole hit the oil: how Puglia begins the festive season

• Cover