L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 8, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano S a s t a a l l a ghigliottina is one of those dish- e s w h o s e n a m e arrives before its explanation. The word is sharp, a little theatrical, and it tends to raise eyebrows the first time it appears on a menu or in a conversation; in practice, though, the dish has nothing to do with history lessons or revolutionary drama. The name points to something much more domestic and immediate: a plate of pasta with a direct, bold flavor. Pasta alla ghigliottina belongs to that broad, infor- mal family of Italian pasta recipes that circulate more in family kitchens than in cookbooks; it does not come with a protected designa- tion, a fixed birthplace, or a single "correct" version, but it certainly has a very recog- n i z a b l e p e r s o n a l i t y . I t s r e c i p e i s b u i l t a r o u n d a small set of strong ingredi- ents – sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, chili, olive oil – han- dled with confidence and u n c o m p r o m i s i n g l y , f o r a result that satisfies taste- buds quickly. Most Italian food writers w h o m e n t i o n t h e d i s h d e s c r i b e i t a s p a r t o f a S o u t h e r n - l e a n i n g h o m e - cooking tradition, often not- ing its bold flavor, and it's easy to see why, if we think t h a t s u n - d r i e d t o m a t o e s , after all, are already toma- toes taken to their extreme: concentrated, sweet, slightly leathery, and packed with flavor. Add garlic warmed gently in olive oil, a mea- sured dose of chili, and you already have a sauce that does not need much else to make its point. And this is exactly where the reputation of pasta alla ghigliottina rests, on this lack of compromise. It is not a s l o w s a u c e ; i t d o e s n o t simmer for hours or rely on l a y e r s o f d e l i c a t e f l a v o r s m i n g l i n g . N o , p a s t a a l l a ghigliottina is assembled q u i c k l y , o f t e n w h i l e t h e pasta water is coming to a boil, and it expects attention from the cook because the garlic must not burn, the c h i l i m u s t b e c a r e f u l l y d o s e d , a n d t h e t o m a t o e s s o f t e n e d j u s t e n o u g h t o release flavor without losing their character. If the dish feels familiar, that is because it shares an attitude with several well- known Southern Italian pasta preparations. Like other pantry-driven recipes, it is born from the idea that a m e a l c a n b e s a t i s f y i n g without being elaborate. It also belongs to a group of pastas whose names hint at their effect rather than their ingredients so, in that sense, "ghigliottina" is closer to a warning than a description: it's bold, straightforward and will chop your hunger off. But what, perhaps, makes the dish still so popular is how easily it fits into mod- ern cooking habits, based on t h e " f a s t - b u t - h e a l t h y " m a n t r a . I n t h e e n d , t h i s p a s t a r e q u i r e s n o s p e c i a l e q u i p m e n t a n d v e r y f e w ingredients, many of which are already sitting in kitchen c u p b o a r d s ; i t i s a l s o f a s t enough for a weeknight, yet distinctive enough to feel quite special all at once. For cooks who enjoy dishes with a bit of heat and assertive- ness, it also offers a reliable way to turn a simple plate of s p a g h e t t i i n t o s o m e t h i n g with character and a definite punch. The choice of pasta is usu- ally spaghetti, though lin- guine works just as well, b u t s h o r t s h a p e s a r e l e s s common because long pasta tends to carry this type of s a u c e b e t t e r . S u n - d r i e d t o m a t o e s a r e t y p i c a l l y c h o p p e d f i n e l y , a l l o w i n g their flavor to spread, garlic is sliced or lightly crushed, depending on preference, and chili can come in the form of dried flakes or fresh peperoncino. Olive oil does the heavy lifting here, as it's used both in cooking and as a b i n d e r . O n e i n g r e d i e n t that appears often, though not always, is pangrattato, breadcrumbs toasted in olive oil until crisp and golden. In m a n y S o u t h e r n k i t c h e n s , pangrattato is often used as a stand-in for grated cheese, adding texture and flavor without dairy. As it is common for tradi- tional family recipes, there are plenty of variations to follow, too. Some cooks melt anchovies into the oil at the beginning, while others add olives or capers for a briny e d g e , o r a h a n d f u l o f c h o p p e d p a r s l e y t o b r i n g freshness at the end. Basil appears occasionally, but it is not essential. Making the perfect plate of pasta alla ghigliottina is not difficult; start by bring- i n g a l a r g e p o t o f s a l t e d water to a boil; while the water heats, place a wide p a n o v e r l o w t o m e d i u m h e a t a n d a d d a g e n e r o u s pour of olive oil. Add sliced garlic and chili, letting them warm slowly until fragrant. As soon as the oil smells of garlic, stir in the chopped sun-dried tomatoes and let them soften for a minute or two. M e a n w h i l e , c o o k t h e spaghetti until just shy of al d e n t e , m a k i n g s u r e y o u reserve a cup of the starchy pasta water before draining, then transfer them directly into the pan with the sauce, adding a splash of the pasta w a t e r y o u k e p t t o l o o s e n everything. Toss over medi- um heat, allowing the pasta t o f i n i s h c o o k i n g a s i t absorbs the sauce. The mix- t u r e s h o u l d c l i n g t o t h e strands and not pool at the bottom of the pan. In a separate small pan, y o u c a n t o a s t t h e b r e a d - c r u m b s i n o l i v e o i l u n t i l crisp and golden, stirring constantly. When the pasta is ready, remove it from the heat and adjust seasoning if needed. Spoon the spaghetti onto plates, finish with the toasted pangrattato, and, if desired, a final drizzle of olive oil or a scattering of fresh herbs. If you want to enjoy a nice wine with it, you should go f o r s o m e t h i n g f r e s h a n d acidic, like a light red served slightly cool, or a dry rosato. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI A plate of spaghetti alla ghigliottina. The addition of breadcrumbs is key! (Photo: Sshleigel/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Pasta alla ghigliottina: a dish that doesn't hold back

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