L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 22, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano A t f i r s t g l a n c e , f a l s o m a g r o is pretty ordi- nary, much like y o u r a v e r a g e roast: compact and simple, nothing in it hints at excess. But then, you slice it and its real nature emerges, in a triumph of layers made of hard-boiled eggs, cheese, cured meat, sometimes veg- etables, all arranged with care. That's when you under- stand how fitting its name – falso magro can be translat- ed as "fake lean," – truly is, b e c a u s e t h e r e i s n o t h i n g "lean" in this quintessential Sicilian feast. Known in dialect as far- sumagru or, in some areas, bruciuluni, falso magro belongs firmly to the world of home cooking, but don't make the mistake of consid- e r i n g i t e v e r y d a y f o o d , because it was never meant to be. This is a dish you make when time is available and w h e n t h e r e a r e p e o p l e t o feed; reason for which, for many families, it has long been tied to Sunday lunch or to holidays, when cooking can slow down and stretch across the day. The origins of falso magro are usually tied to the Bour- bon period, when Sicily a b s o r b e d s t r o n g F r e n c h influences at the table. Back then, aristocratic households r e l i e d o n F r e n c h - t r a i n e d c o o k s , k n o w n l o c a l l y a s monsù, who brought with them a culinary language based on stuffing, rolling, and meticulous presentation. Refined and elaborate, these t e c h n i q u e s w e r e i n i t i a l l y used only in court kitchens but soon became everyone's patrimony and were adapted by common cooks. This helps explain both the structure of falso magro and its name: the idea of stuffing meat and rolling it into a single piece is very much part of French c u l i n a r y t r a d i t i o n , w h e r e farce – the filling – and its richness are central; at the same time, the dish looks lean and controlled, humble even, in all its exterior sim- plicity. But its interior tells another story. By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, f a l s o m a g r o h a d f u l l y crossed into domestic cook- ing, and moved from being a symbol of aristocratic refine- ment to a practical way to turn a single cut of veal or beef into something substan- tial and rich, thanks to the clever use of fillings and the art of preparation. Because – don't be fooled! Preparing falso magro requires time and patience, and a few hun- gry mouths to feed: in other words, this isn't something to make mid-week for you and your partner. It belongs to larger meals, to the kind of lunches where the roast is s l i c e d s l o w l y a n d p a s s e d around, each portion show- ing the filling a little differ- e n t l y . I n m a n y S i c i l i a n households, it is an integrant part of Sunday lunch rituals and of major holidays' cele- b r a t i o n s , m o m e n t s w h e n cooking is not only expected to take time but also to be a moment of convivial catching up and collaboration. There is a practical side to it, too: like many slow-cooked dish- es, falso magro is even better the next day, making left- overs something to look for- ward. When it comes to nitty- gritty, remember there isn't a single way of making the per- fect falso magro, but that's the whole point of it: ask ten Sicilian cooks how they pre- p a r e t h e i r s a n d y o u w i l l almost certainly hear ten dif- ferent versions. Most start with a large, thin cut of veal or beef, opened flat by the butcher, but from there the choices vary, although some commonalities are present, like hard-boiled eggs placed l e n g t h w i s e s o t h a t t h e y appear neatly in every slice. Everything else depends on habit and availability: cheese a n d c u r e d m e a t s c h a n g e from household to house- h o l d ; s o m e a d d p e a s o r greens, others a scattering of breadcrumbs; some cook it slowly in tomato sauce, while others prefer it roasted and finished in the oven. I n r e c e n t y e a r s , f a l s o magro also gained literary visibility through its appear- ance in I Leoni di Sicilia, the bestselling historical saga by Stefania Auci centered on the rise of the Florio family in nineteenth-century Sicily. T h a n k s t o t h e n o v e l s i t entered, at least by name, the kitchens and culinary fan- tasies of many Italians, even outside of the island. Sicilian Falso Magro T h i s i s a c l a s s i c h o m e - style version, adapted for American kitchens. The fill- ing can be adjusted without changing the spirit of the dish. Ingredients 2½–3 lb veal or beef flank or top round, butterflied Salt and black pepper 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled ¾ cup grated Parmigiano- Reggiano 1 cup diced scamorza or provolone 5 oz cooked ham or mor- tadella, chopped ¾ cup peas (optional) Extra-virgin olive oil 1 s m a l l o n i o n , f i n e l y chopped ½ cup dry white wine 2 cups tomato purée or crushed tomatoes (optional) Kitchen twine Method L a y t h e m e a t f l a t o n a w o r k s u r f a c e a n d s e a s o n lightly with salt and pepper. In a bowl, combine the Parmigiano, diced cheese, c u r e d m e a t , a n d p e a s i f using. Spread the filling evenly over the meat, leaving a nar- row border at the edges. Place the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise across the center. R o l l t h e m e a t t i g h t l y around the filling and tie securely with kitchen twine. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven and brown the roll on all sides. Add the chopped onion and let it soften, then deglaze with the white wine. Add the tomato purée if using, cover, and cook gently over low heat or in a 325°F oven for 1½–2 hours, until tender. Let the falso magro rest for at least 15 minutes before removing the twine and slic- ing. Serve warm, with its juices and simple sides like pota- toes or bread. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Slices of Falso Magro: one of its main characteristics are the full boiled eggs inside (Photo: Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Falso Magro: the Sicilian roast that isn't what it seems

• Cover