L'Italo-Americano

T here's a different feel to this part of Italy - a timeless, almost mystical presence that per- meates every breath. Count- less days of sunshine nourish a rich color palette of brilliant white limestone, red clay soil, a n d e n d l e s s g n a r l e d o l i v e trees. This is the Valle d'I- tria, an expanse of fertile land that encompasses some of Puglia's most enchanting hilltop towns: Alberobello overflowing with whimsical trullis, Locorotondo with its renowned circular historic center, and Ostuni's stun- ning array of whitewashed buildings rising above the cerulean Adriatic. The Valle d'Itria is not only a feast for the eyes, however. Local dish- es of grilled meat, hearty pas- tas, and crisp white wines are a n i r r e s i s t i b l e p a r t o f t h e allure. Come along for a clos- er look at this enchanting part of Italy. As if fantasy became reali- ty, the landscape of the Valle d'Itria is more fairytale than commonplace. Ancient olive trees shaped over hundreds of years take on fantastical shapes that could come to life a t a n y m o m e n t . T u c k e d amongst these never-ending groves are numerous conical- r o o f e d t r u l l i , t h e i c o n i c d w e l l i n g s t h a t d e f i n e t h i s region. Thousands of these remarkable structures are s c a t t e r e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e Valle d'Itria…and they come with a story. Trulli weren't always the e x a l t e d o b j e c t s t h e y a r e today. With humble begin- nings in the early 14 th centu- r y , t h e s e s m a l l s t r u c t u r e s made of stacked limestone blocks sans mortar were the m a k e - d o h o m e s o f p o o r farmers and peasants. It's said the cone shaped stone roofs were designed to be quickly dismantled to avoid paying property taxes to the King of Naples. Legend or not, the trulli have endured. Adding to the storybook qual- ity are the mysterious white symbols that adorn many of the stone roofs. Said to bring g o o d l u c k , w e m a y n e v e r know the true mysterious ori- gins behind these whimsical symbols. Even though trulli are scat- tered like Easter eggs across the Valle d"Itria, the concen- t r a t i o n o f t h e m f o u n d i n Alberobello is a spectacular sight to see. Over a thousand are within the Rione Monti district – along with as many tourists who bustle between the souvenir shops and bou- tiques. Despite the crowds, it's worth bumping elbows to experience the sight of trulli nestled together like living p o e t r y . A i a P i c c o l a i s a calmer residential zone and great for those wanting a more authentic experience. The Valle d'Itria is more than trulli, though. A mere 11 miles away is Locoroton- do. This hilltop town not only impresses, but feels like a breath of fresh air after leaving the crowded charms of Alberobello. Surrounded by picturesque countryside, Locorotondo sits atop a high hill offering views that cause o n e t o e x h a l e a n d l i n g e r . Postcard-worthy imagery of cobbled streets decorated with cheerful potted succu- lents and brilliant flowers wind between whitewashed buildings, each leading to the circular centro storico. Along the way you'll note a particu- lar style of peaked roof called cummersa. Distinctive to Locorotondo, they lend a storybook feel. Pause for a g l a s s o f t h e l o c a l B i a n c o Locorotondo DOC, then ven- ture out for a passeggiata on the Lungomare, the town's i m p r o b a b l y n a m e d " s e a - front" that encircles the top of the historic center. The expansive, landlocked views b r i n g a c r i s p b r e e z e a n d restorative beauty that satis- fy. Refreshed and ready…it's onward to Ostuni. Rising like something so bright, so white as to almost be a mirage, Ostuni makes a dramatic appearance. She's earned her nickname – La Citta Bianca. The natural beauty of the Valle d'Itria's hill towns is hard to resist, yet Ostuni somehow takes it to another level. Brilliant s u n l i g h t b o u n c e s o f f t h e town's whitewashed walls, a trend that began in the Mid- d l e A g e s w h e n l i m e w a s applied to reflect the heat and perhaps protect from disease. Today, the white- wash is more about aesthet- i c s t h a n p r a c t i c a l i t y , a n d local regulations ensure that t h e p l e a s i n g u n i f o r m i t y remains intact. Deep blue skies and brilliant sunlight seem to heighten and inten- sify colors here. From daz- zling white buildings and v i b r a n t p o t t e d p l a n t s t o bougainvillea-draped walls and colorful laundry waving f r o m b a l c o n i e s , O s t u n i makes an impression that lingers. Like many popular destinations, however, sum- mer brings crowds. If a little escape is needed, the Adriat- ic coast is a short drive away. A b e a c h u m b r e l l a a n d a Spritz – problem solved! There's immense natural beauty throughout the Valle d'Itria. Life isn't centered on looks alone, however. The time-sculpted olive trees, sensuous vineyards, and rich alkaline soil are also respon- sible for the gastronomic t r e a s u r e s o f t h e r e g i o n . Local, simple, and wildly sat- isfying, the food and wine offerings vary from town to town, but a few stand out as distinctly unique to the Valle d'Itria. Pasta - that one dish ubiq- uitous to every square foot of Italian soil inhabited by a h u m a n . Y e t i t i s a l s o a s unique as a fingerprint, an e d i b l e a r t f o r m t h a t c a n d e f i n e a t o w n ' s i d e n t i t y . Orecchiette is that dish for t h e V a l l e d ' I t r i a . S m a l l , hand-rolled pasta shaped like little ears, Orecchiette is combined with cime di rapa (turnip tops) and tossed with g a r l i c , o l i v e o i l , a n d anchovies creating one of the area's prime comfort foods. Bombette are another local dish made with rolled pork stuffed with local caciocaval- lo cheese, then roasted on a fornello. Nearby Cisternino is famous for its plentitude of fornellari, master butch- ers who not only prepare raw bombette, but will roast it on the fornello right before your eyes. Fave e Cicoria is a b e l o v e d e x a m p l e o f t h e region's povera cucina. A puree of dried fava beans is s e r v e d a l o n g s i d e s a u t e e d wild chicory, then lavishly drizzled with rich, local oil. It's a mystery how something so simple can be so elegant. And wine, don't forget the wine. Abundant sun, an arid climate, and limestone-rich soil combine as ideal condi- tions for grapes to ripen with wonderful intensity. Minu- t o l o , M a r t i n a F r a n c a DOC, and Locorotondo DOC are highlights of the a r e a ' s d i s t i n c t i v e w h i t e wines, while a smooth Rosa- ta can bring magic to a warm a f t e r n o o n . R e d s s u c h a s Sussumaniello and Pri- mitivo are not to be over- looked, equally elegant and s m o o t h s i p p e d a l o n e o r paired with food. Wine is always a good idea in the Valle d'Itria of Puglia. The trulli may be what brought you here, but it's what lies beyond them that makes you want to stay: a striking landscape of ancient o l i v e g r o v e s a n d w h i t e - washed villages, a hearty plate of orecchiette and a chilled glass of Minutolo, the warmth of the sun surpassed only by the warmth of its i n h a b i t a n t s . A n d m o s t importantly, the unspoken permission to slow down, stay awhile, and discover the magic of the Valle d'Itria. PAULA REYNOLDS Beyond the Trulli: a journey inside the charm and magic of Puglia's Valle d'Itria THURSDAY, AUGUST 20, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano The distinctive trulli of Alberobello, in Puglia, with their conical stone roofs forming one of southern Italy's most recog- nizable townscapes (Photo: Jose Julio Millan Gutierrez/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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