L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, JANUARY 16, 2014 www.italoamericano.com 23 Rigatoni alla Carbonara JOSEPH BEccI There is great controversy over the origins of "carbonara" dishes in Italy. They range from a dish made by Italian charcoal workers' wives inspired by their husbands' coal-dusted work clothes, to grateful Italians during WWII making American GIs a pasta dish with bacon, eggs and black pepper – familiar tastes to the hungry American soldiers. Regardless of the origin, this dish has evolved to a higher form in good restaurants in Italy. In Rome, restaurants all over the city lay claim to the best "alla Carbonara" and there is a surprising variation of this dish from restaurant to restaurant. At Rome's famous Trattoria Sorra Lella on the tiny Isola Tiberina in the middle of the Tiber river, they use a very simple preparation that showcases farm-fresh eggs. Our friend Francesco Ripaccioli from the Brunello winery Canalicchio di Sopra in Montalcino, Italy recommended this restaurant to me. At the restaurant, I was able to sneak a few questions to the waiters on how this dish is made! Sorra Lella uses guanciale (cured pork cheek) but I used pancetta (cured pork belly). They let the fat slowly rendered from the pancet- ta do all the work. And they use rigatoni as the pasta. I can't think of a restaurant in the USA that doesn't use spaghetti in this dish. Perhaps this is another evolution will end up with scrambled eggs. Not bad tasting but not attractive! The other important ingredient in this dish is Pecorino Romano. find it •4 farm-fresh eggs (3 yolks only and 1 whole egg – reserve the 3 egg whites for another use) •Salt and freshly ground black in Italy of this famous dish. The REAL KEY is finding super farm-fresh eggs with almost orange-golden yolks. These can be found at local farmers' markets around the US. Honestly, if you can't find farm-fresh eggs, I'd take a pass on this recipe. Also, as said below, the eggs must be added off the heat or you Pecorino Romano is a hard, salty, sharp Italian cheese, often used for grating and made out of sheep's milk – not to be confused with Pecorino Tuscano or cheeses just labeled "pecorino". Pecorino Romano D.O.P. (Protected Designations of Origin) is made in a very specific way and produced in a specific geographic region including areas of Lazio (the Italian region containing Rome). Grated pecorino that you find in your local supermarket is NOT Pecorino Romano D.O.P.! This recipe serves 2 as a main course or 3-4 as a primo piatto. Ingredients and Directions: •4-6 slices of good-quality pancetta (about the thickness of American bacon), cut into 1/2inch pieces – use guanciale (cured pork cheeks) if you can pepper •½ lb high-quality imported rigatoni •¼ to ½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for cooking the rigatoni (add the salt to the water after it comes to a boil to avoid the salt pitting your pot's bottom). 2. In a large saute pan over low heat, add the cut pancetta. Slowly render out the fat and crisp up the pancetta. Do this slowly, otherwise you'll just sear the fat into the pancetta—about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat when done. You should have crispy pancetta and a good amount of rendered fat. This is what makes this dish sing! 3. Start cooking the rigatoni. Cook to al dente or to 1-2 minutes short of the specified cooking time. 4. In a small bowl, add the 3 egg yolks and 1 whole egg and beat with a fork until it's a smooth, creamy consistency. Season generously with freshly ground pepper and salt. Taste to check the seasoning. You only have the eggs, pancetta and drippings and cheese to season this dish so the seasoning of the eggs is very important. 5. As the rigatoni is finishing, reheat the pancetta and drippings over medium heat. Prepare to drain the pasta but you'll reserve a cup of the pasta cooking water. Add the drained rigatoni to the pancetta and drippings. Add a little pasta water and toss the rigatoni creating a small amount of starchy thick sauce. About 1 minute. 6. IMPORTANT!! – Now remove the pan from the heat and add the prepared eggs. Toss to coat rigatoni in the egg mixture – stirring for about 1 minute. 7. Serve in a white or lightcolored bowl to offset the golden-orange color of the eggs and serve with grated Pecorino Romano cheese.

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