L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, DECEMBER 11, 2014 www.italoamericano.com 10 An Italian Christmas in Portland Ring in the New Year with Lucia Galizia ily has its own dishes that are expected at Christmas. For me, having grown up near Mantua, Tortelli di Zucca are a must on December 24, and Agnolini (our local version of tortellini), ideally in a broth made with capon, on Christmas Day. The food scenario in Portland is indeed vibrant, and it's a relief to know that many places offer traditional Italian dishes. On Christmas Eve, two restaurants will be proposing seven-fish courses. Interestingly, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is Italian-American, but it certainly connects to the truly authentic We are lucky. As Italians, we've surely had our chance to be spoiled when it comes to food. Lucky and cursed at the same time, since our standards are so high! This is particularly true as the holidays approach. We often find ourselves fighting at the stove to recreate that particular dish, hunting for a rare ingredient, dig- ging into mom's recipes and struggling with always imprecise instructions. "Mom, how much is a little bit?" I find myself shout- ing into the telephone handset. Each Italian region, city, fam- Italian celebration of The Vigil with fish and seafood only: no blocks of caviar but please, no meat allowed (and we still have the nerve to call it "di magro!" Ah, crazy Italians!). At Trattoria Gallo Nero, chef Davide Filippini, a native of Florence, will be cooking cod "alla Livornese," with potatoes, garlic, wine and tomatoes. "It's so good," Davide says, "and it reminds me of my Aunt Ave and the huge meals at her place." He will also be preparing squid filled with tuna, capers, tomatoes, and mussels gratin as "a tribute to my grandma," he smiles. "She would have turned anything into a gratin!" Closed on Christmas day, Gallo Nero will be offering capon and other meat delicacies on December 26. A Cena Ristorante in Portland's Sellwood District will also be serving a feast of seven fishes family-style, featuring Octopus salad, baccalà, agnolotti with lobster, crab risotto, Casarecce with tuna and toma- toes. In December, they sell homemade holiday cookies. Their menu already includes tortellini filled with meats, Mortadella and prosciutto cooked in broth, "a dish that reminds me of my childhood," says Executive Chef Gabe Gabreski, who lived his earliest years in Bologna before moving to the U.S. with his Roman mom. Bastas Trattoria on NW 21st Avenue, also open on Christmas Eve, has a festive menu for the entire month of December. The menu includes tortelli filled with squash, amaretti and caramelized onions; grilled fresh eel Florentine-style; baccalà with leeks; homemade cotechino and goose prosciutto. "To me," says owner Marco Frattaroli, who grew up in Livorno with a mom from Brescia, "Christmas meant a huge party in my uncle's renaissance villa on the Garda Lake, and we would feast on And dance she does. At Festa Italiana you will see Lucia front and center dancing to the myriad of performers who take the stage. Lucia inadvertently becomes part of the show. Her charismatic personality draws people in. "Festa would not be the same without Lucia," says Theresa Rossetto Berney, committee chair of the Columbus Day Dinner. Lucia has been an inte- gral part of Festa Italiana since its inception in 1991 and is cur- rently head of the entertainment committee. Another of Lucia's contribu- tions is her long-held position as host of The Italian Hour on KBOO Community Radio. Lucia Galizia will be ringing in the New Year at the Crowne Plaza Hotel on December 31. Festivities begin at 7:00pm and include dancing to music from the 40's, 50's, & 60's with DJ Rick Harlow, a full buffet dinner, and door prizes aplenty! Lucia has been a driving force behind the Italian community for over thirty years. Because of her tireless volunteer efforts, she has (deservedly) been given the title, La Matriarca di Portland. "I like to see people enjoy themselves." Lucia says. "This is why I put in all this effort. I like to dance and enjoy myself too." "It's a labor of love," she says. "I either purchase the music myself or it is donated by others. I think it is good for people to hear the music of their (native) country, and people of non- Italian descent enjoy it too!" "Lucia has a heart of gold," says Patricia Badia-Johnson, friend and vice-president of Amici d'Italia. "She gives 100% to each person she meets. 'I love people' is a frequent expression of hers. I have always called her Portland's Italian Godmother." Join Lucia for a festive cele- bration this New Year's Eve. Tickets are $65 per person. For tickets or more information, call 503-284-6989. TONYA RUSSO HAMILTON game birds and courtyard poultry like duck and goose." Agnolotti in broth is the fond Christmas memory of Paolo Parilli, a true Varesotto, owner and chef of Caffe Allora on NW 9th in Portland's Pearl District. He will recreate and propose these flavors on Christmas Eve. "Since we'll be closed on the fol- lowing day," he explains, "we will have a menu that will fully represent the holidays, with fish and meat dishes like agnolotti, or roasted pork roll, filled with frit- tata and vegetables." Although many restaurants will close for the Vigil and Christmas, they still feature a festive menu in December. Mucca Osteria on SW Morrison Street, run by Simone Savaiano, who recently moved to Portland from Rome, is proposing white Alba and black Oregon truffles on fresh tagliatelle. Piazza Italia on NW Johnson Street features baccalà in umido, agnolotti di carne al sugo, and crespelle in brodo, "one of our favorite traditional recipes, our family calls it scorpelle," says owner Amy Schettini. Nostrana on SE Morrison Street is serving agnolotti dal plin (with mixed meats and spinach filling) in broth, and zuppa imperiale, a Bolognese soup with special bread in capon broth. All restaurants that I inter- viewed close for Christmas day. How about getting take-out? Taste Unique Traditional Italian Kitchen, located on SE Division Street, is the perfect spot. There are several dishes "di magro," such as a special zucchini and smoked salmon lasagna, spinach cannelloni and ravioli, savory tarts with vegetables and cheese. Suitable for Christmas day are the classic lasagna, ravioli with meat filling and homemade Panettone, a quite complicated recipe that needs to rise for 24 hours. "I bought a special set of blankets to keep my babies warm," reveals Stefania Toscano, owner and chef from Perugia, who relocated in the U.S. not too long ago. Hungry for more? Check out my blog www.cookwithgrazia. com for easy recipes. Among them is the iconic Vov liquor, perfect to end your celebratory meals. It also makes an unex- pected traditional Italian home- made gift. Grazia Solazzi keeps in touch with various Italian restaurants around Portland in preparation for her Christmas menu. (Photo credit, Grazia Solazzi) Homemade Panettone from Taste Unique is a tradition for Portland Italians. (Photo credit, Stefania Toscano) GRAZIA SOLAZZI

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