L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 29, 2015 www.italoamericano.com L'Italo-Americano 11 Dear Readers, In January, thirty-five years ago, a big "Italian Connection" took place. The unification of two Italian newspapers became effective Jan. 1, 1980, and L'Eco d'Italia of San Francisco and L'Italo-Americano of Los Angeles became one. I know because I was there, and so was then editor, Mario Trecco. As mergers go, this was pretty harmonious thanks in part to the late Eve Sodo- who passed away in January of 1997. Eve managed the San Francisco office for many years and helped smooth the transition of two newspapers into one unified edition of L'Italo-Americano by soothing ruffled feathers of some of those change-resistent Bay Area Readers. Eventually, the profes- sionalism and dedication of the "new" newspaper staff became apparent to all. Now, thirty-five years later, thanks to the profes- sionalism of the "newer staff" and their dedication to moving L'Italo-Americano Newspaper into the digital age, I can say without fear of contradiction that both in appearance and content L'Italo-Americano has become the Best Weekly Italian- American Newspaper in the U.S.A. *** In January, when we all need a little lift following our Holy but hectic season, I like to recycle this column: Tiramisù, unlike all men, are not "created equal" so when I encountered a nonagenarian neighbor of mine, sounding for- lorn, I searched my files for a tiramisù recipe that could elevate his sagging spirits. He explained "My wife died, so she is not here anymore. I got a bad leg, so I can't play bocce ball anymore. I asked someone to drive me to a Deli-Café where me and my wife used to eat tiramisù, and buy some to bring to my brother-in- law, but he is not here anymore. At the Deli, the girl behind the counter said that except for spe- cial orders, they don't make tiramisù anymore. I'm telling you, life is not fun anymore." I did find a special tiramisù recipe that I will share with you later, but first a bit of tiramisù history: In the early 1980's I had the pleasure of meeting then editor Mario Trecco's sister, Idelma and her husband Vittorio Tortella. They lived in Italy but were in the USA on a visit. The couple owned a Pastry shop and Bar in Pescantina (Verona). I asked Idelma what was the "specialty of the house" and she said "Tiramisù". In the early 1980's, "Tiramisù" was unknown outside of Italy because visiting U.S.A. Food writers had not yet "discovered" and spread the word about Tiramisù. Hence it was nowhere to be found on Italian restaurant menus in the U.S.A. I wanted to know what Tiramisù was. Vittorio, the pasticciere (pastry maker) of the house knew the true story. And he began: "The first Tiramisù was made quite by accident. A group of businessmen con- cluded a long day by having din- ner in the restaurant of Hotel Carletto in Treviso, some 20 miles north of Venice. I knew the chef of the restaurant and remember he was also a very good pastry baker. At the end of the dinner, the group of men asked the chef 'Now we need a nice dessert to pick us up'. The Italian words used were 'per tirarci su'. "The chef did not have any ready made dessert, but he said: 'I'll prepare something for you in no time! He put together some mascarpone (a kind of butter-like ricotta), yolk of eggs and sugar: he inserted some savoiardi cook- ies (Lady Fingers) soaked in cof- fee liquor of low alcoholic con- tent, and served it in a cup, after spraying some whipped cream on top together with a sprinkle of cocoa powder. The businessmen watched the 'last minute preparation' with evident relish; and one of them exclaimed: 'Now this is what I call a pick me up' (in Italian tiramisù)." "A few days later, that same man entered the restaurant with another company. At the end of the meal he told the chef: 'Give me again that tiramisù!'. "Thus the name stuck quite by chance, and the dessert began to slowly spread in Northern Italy first, and later all over. Naturally, I soon began to make tiramisù myself," said Vittorio. "In 1977 when I moved to my native Pescantina (Verona) and opened my pasticceria (pastry shop), nobody knew about tiramisù in Verona, and I was the first to introduce it there". Before long, this tasty treat tiramisù was being duplicated all over Italy... American Food Editors who had visited Venice were excited- ly telling their American Readers about their latest Italian dessert discovery "Tiramisù" and describing it as "a simple to make luxurious Italian dessert, consisting of alternating layers of mascarpone cheese and Lady Fingers delicately soaked in espresso, with a hint of Marsala or liqueur". *** Upscale Italian Restaurants from the Atlantic to the Pacific suddenly sprouted "Tiramisù" versions in their menus. Unfortunately some efforts were more a "let down" than a "pick me up". But practice makes per- fect, and some local versions of "Tiramisù" are really quite good. The reason you cannot find a Tiramisù recipe in older cook- books is that it is not an old Italian specialty with a long her- itage, but a relatively new one, inspired by a tired customer and a pastry baker/Chef in Treviso, who simply was doing his best to provide good old-fashioned cus- tomer service. Since you won't find it in the older cookbooks, here is the recipe for "Tiramisù" that I cut off from a package of Lady Fingers biscuits. You can substi- tute soft cream cheese, or ricotta for the mascarpone cheese, if you cannot find it easily. Add a little Kahlua or coffee liqueur to this if you'd like: TIRAMISÙ DESSERT (This recipe makes 4-6 servings) Ingredients: 7 oz. Champagne biscuits Lady Fingers 7 oz. mascarpone (ricotta or cream cheese) 2 eggs (separated) 2 oz. of sugar 1 cup of espresso or very strong black coffee dust with cocoa Preparation: Separate the eggs, beat the egg yolks and sugar together into smooth creamy consistency, add the mascarpone cheese and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Soak the Lady Fingers with the coffee. Line the bottom of an oblong mold or pan with half of the Lady Fingers and spread over half the cream mixture. Cover with remaining Lady Fingers and rest of the cream mixture. Cover top with cocoa. Chill until served. I suggest that you use a pack- age of Matilde Vincenzi cham- pagne Lady Fingers biscuits imported from San Giovanni Lupatoto (Verona). *** Popular chef and T.V. Host Nick Stellino has a tiramisù recipe in his book "Nick Stellino's Family Kitchen" (Pub. 1999, by G.P. Putnam, N.Y.) that received rave reviews from Oprah. You can try Stellino's version when you want some- thing more elaborate, that will not only pick you up, but will lift you to Heavenly heights. Nick Stellino calls it "Tiramisù Celestiale". He said "We all have times in our lives where everything seems to be going our way. This recipe represents for me one of those times. I prepared a Tiramisù for Oprah Winfrey to serve at one of the Book Club Dinners. She loved it, and so did the three hun- dred people in attendance". You'll need to make this early on the day you intend to serve it, or the day before." HEAVENLY TIRAMISÙ Tiramisù Celestiale Serves 8 to 10 Ingredients: 2-1/2 cups espresso or strong coffee, cooled 1/2 cup coffee liqueur 2 17.6-ounce packages lady fingers (72 cookies) 9 eggs (separated) 1-1/2 cups sugar 1-1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1-1/2 pounds mascarpone cheese 1 cup finely chopped semi- sweet chocolate morsels (8 ounces) 1/2 cup sweet cocoa powder Preparation: Mix the coffee and liqueur in a large bowl. Dip the lady fingers in batches. Don't leave them in for too long; you want them to be on the moist on the outside but crunchy on the inside. Beat the yolks with half of the sugar until the mixture is thick enough to form a long ribbon when you lift the beaters. Add the vanilla and mascar- pone, and beat for 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside. Beat the egg whites, adding the remaining sugar a little at a time, until they form stiff peaks and have a glossy sheen, about 4 minutes. Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mix- ture until it is all the same color. Gently fold in the chocolate. In a 9x17 inch glass baking dish, assemble the dessert. Layer the bottom of the pan with the moist ladyfingers, and top with a layer of the mascarpone mixture. Repeat with another layer of ladyfingers and a layer of mas- carpone mixture. With a flour sifter, sprinkle a thin layer of sweet cocoa powder over the top. Refrigerate the tiramisù for at least 5 hours, or preferably overnight. ENJOY! *** January Another year has passed and we're all a little older. Last summer felt hotter and winter seems much colder. We used to go to wedding, football games and lunches. Now we go to funeral homes, and after-funeral brunches. We used to go out dining, and couldn't get our fill. Now we ask for doggie bags, come home and take a pill. We used to go to nightclubs and drink a little booze. Now we stay at home at night and watch the evening news. Attenzione, Senior Readers and my tale is told. Enjoy each day in 2015 before you're too darned old! -Author Unknown ***

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