L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 6, 2015 www.italoamericano.org L'Italo-Americano 17 Discovering the charm of the lagoon in Chioggia W hen visiting Venice most travelers are so overwhelmed by its beauty and uniqueness they sel- dom explore the surrounding area – a real pity since many t o w n s a n d v i l l a g e s o f t h e Laguna offer plenty of charm, a rich history and a more relaxed pace. Chioggia is one of those towns, along with Burano and Pallestrina, that are often over- looked but shouldn't, as it is a great alternative to get away from the crowds of Venice. Seen from above, Chioggia is s h a p e d a s a b o n e f i s h : o f t e n called "little Venice" it stands on an island connected to the coast by only a handful of roads and, like Venice, it is cut in two b y a m a i n c a n a l , t h e C a n a l V e n a , w h i c h c a n b e c r o s s e d using nine bridges. The calli – narrow alleys– and the campi – small squares– are also similar to those found in Venice and similar, too, is the architecture w h e n i t c o m e s t o s t u n n i n g churches and extravagant palaz- z o s . P o n t e V i g o , t h e b r i d g e located where the canal flows into the laguna, leads visitors to Piazza Vigo, home to an impres- sive column topped by a statue of the leone Marciano, the lion symbol of the regional proud history. Locals ironically call it "il gattone" – the big kitty – as the statue is much smaller than those seen in Venice. T h e C a t t e d r a l e d i S a n t a Maria Assunta is the oldest and most important religious build- ing in Chioggia and, although its origins are unclear and mysteri- ous, historians agree that the oldest part of the church dates back to the 1100s. The Cathedral was destroyed in a fire on the night after Christmas of 1623 a n d w a s t h u s c o m p l e t e l y redesigned and rebuilt using a very linear and simple design: the façade is home to only two CHIARA ASSI statues, one of each side of the e n t r a n c e , d e p i c t i n g t h e t w o patron saints of the town, Felice and Fortunato. Noteworthy are the imposing Baroque organ and the baptistry. T h e T o r r e d e l l ' O r o l o g i o , located next to the Church of St. A n d r e w s d a t e s b a c k t o t h e 1100s and was once used as a watchtower: its clock is one of the most ancient tower clocks in the world – recent studies have proved it to be older than the one in Salisbury, England – and was built by Giovanni Dondi dall'Orologio, a local doctor, astronomer and clock builder from the 1300s. Chioggia also features some interesting museums, perfect for those who want to get a better understanding of local culture. The Museo Civico della Laguna Sud, not far from the Cathedral, is located in an ex Franciscan convent and narrates the histori- cal and environmental evolution of the surrounding territory. P a l a z z o G r a s s i , c l o s e t o Ponte Vigo, is home to the inter- esting Museo di zoologia adriat- ica Giuseppe Olivi, a university museum dedicated to the rich marine life of the Adriatic Sea. Chioggia's cultural life is lively and rich and, especially during the summer, it organizes several events that range from the Festa Popolare dedicated to Santa Maria Ausiliatrice, to his- t o r i c a l r e e n a c t m e n t s , t o t h e S a g r a d e l P e s c e , a c u l i n a r y event showcasing local seafood specialties. Local cuisine may not be as f a m o u s a s t h a t o f n e a r b y Venice, but is worthy of being t r i e d a n d d i s c o v e r e d . T h e bibarasse in cassopipa – clams with fried onions and garlic – and the buboli da vida – snails– are two great ways to start off a lunch or dinner in Chioggia. Seafood, of course, is the main protagonist on local menus and i t c o m e s i n a l l f o r m s , f r o m stewed eel to granseole, a very delicate crab meat that can only be found in the area. Radicchio, too, is a local favorite and has little to do with that found else- where: the rosa di Chioggia, cultivated year round, has a much more delicate flavor and i s u s e d t o p r e p a r e r i s o t t o , lasagna, pasta and soups or is served grilled as a side dish for roasted fish. Those who have a sweet tooth should try the sug- uli, a cream prepared by cook- ing grapes with flour, or the smegiassa, a sort of sweet bread prepared with honey, pumpkin, pine nuts and raisins. Chioggia can be reached by c a r u s i n g t h e A 4 M i l a n o – Bologna highway and taking e x i t P a d o v a , t h e n f o l l o w i n g SS516 for Chioggia; by train it can be reached from Rovigo and Mestre; the closest airports are A e r e o p o r t o V e n e z i a M a r c o Polo, which offers a bus con- n e c t i o n t o C h i o g g i a , o r A e r o p o r t o V e r o n a V a l e r i o Catullo. Chioggia can also be r e a c h e d b y v a p o r e t t o ( f e r r y boat) from Venice: the trip takes about 1 ½ hours and is a beauti- f u l a n d s c e n i c w a y t o r e a c h town. Chioggia is one of those towns, along with Burano e Pallestrina, that are often overlooked but shouldn't, as it is a great alternative to get away from the crowds of Venice Chioggia cultural life is lively and rich and, especially during the summer, it organizes several events like the Sagra del Pesce

• Cover