L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2015 www.italoamericano.org 19 L'Italo-Americano Flavors of Fall: Chestnut and Pear Ravioli with Saged Brown Butter T here is something deeply satisfying to me about the changing of the seasons. Perhaps it is the shedding of the o l d a n d n o w f a m i l i a r ; t h e awakening of new colors, new a r o m a s a n d t h e m a g n i f i c e n t light. The cooler weather ushers in autumn's treasures that re- awaken the senses – chestnuts, m u s h r o o m s , k a l e , p e a r s , p o m e g r a n a t e s . T h e e a r t h y colors in the market deepen; the flavors explode once again after the final heat of summer. C h e s t n u t s h o l d a s p e c i a l place in my heart. Throughout the fall and winter, my mother a l w a y s h a d c h e s t n u t s i n t h e house. We would help make the little 'X' across the chestnut before placing them in the pan and sit patiently as they roasted in the oven. Many years later, I w o u l d b u y c o n e s o f f r e s h l y roasted chestnuts from the street vendors in Sicily and fall in love with these treasures all over again – that smoky flavor mingling with the salt tasting fresh from the sea, warming you to your soul on that chilly fall evening. With Thanksgiving quickly approaching and a house full of f a m i l y o n t h e c a l e n d a r , I decided to add a touch of fall to our usual first course of pasta on the Thanksgiving menu. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f t h e s m o k y c h e s t n u t s a n d p a n c e t t a i s heavenly and the pear adds just a hint of sweetness to the flavor. I hope you enjoy these as much a s w e d i d . B u o n a p p e t i t o , Michele CHESTNUT AND PEAR R A V I O L I W I T H S A G E D BROWN-BUTTER Serves: 6 INGREDIENTS For the pasta: • 3 ½ cups all-purpose flour or '00' flour (or a combination) • 5 large eggs • 1 t e a s p o o n e x t r a v i r g i n olive oil For the filling: • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 ounces pancetta, diced • ½ small onion, diced • 2 garlic cloves, diced • About 8 ounces chestnuts ( u s e f r e s h r o a s t e d o r p r e - packaged) • 1/2 Bosc pear • ¼ cup grated Parmigiano- Reggiano • Salt • F r e s h l y g r o u n d b l a c k pepper For the sauce: • 8 t a b l e s p o o n s u n s a l t e d butter • Fresh sage leaves • Salt • F r e s h l y g r o u n d b l a c k pepper MICHELE BECCI SPECIAL EQUIPMENT Pasta maker PREPARATION Prepare the pasta dough: Make a large mound of the f l o u r i n t h e c e n t e r o f y o u r cutting board or surface prep area. Form a well in the center of the flour. Add the eggs and olive oil. Using a fork, beat together the eggs with the oil and slowly begin to incorporate the flour from the inner rim of the well. Continue until the dough starts to come together. Switch to using your hands. Incorporate the rest of the flour u n t i l y o u h a v e a l a r g e b a l l . Scrape off any excess from the surface. Re-flour the board and continue kneading the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Add a little more flour if the dough is too sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest for at l e a s t 3 0 m i n u t e s a t r o o m temperature. P r e p a r e t h e f i l l i n g : I n a m e d i u m s a u c e p a n , m e l t t h e butter over medium-low heat. A d d t h e d i c e d p a n c e t t a a n d slowly cook until the fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add in the onion and garlic and cook until the onion has softened, about 3 minutes. Coarsely chop the chestnuts and add to the pan. Cook until the chestnuts Chestnut and pear ravioli with saged brown butter LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES have softened a bit. Remove from the heat. Peel the pear and remove the core, stem and seeds. Grate the pear o n a b o x g r a t e r . I n a f o o d p r o c e s s o r , c o m b i n e t h e chestnut-pancetta mixture along with the pear and process until still slightly chunky. Pour the mixture into a bowl and stir in the grated Parmigiano. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Make the ravioli: Allow the d o u g h t o c o m e t o r o o m temperature if refrigerated. Cut the ball of dough into quarters. Cover the dough you are not using immediately to prevent it f r o m d r y i n g o u t . D u s t y o u r surface and the dough with a bit of flour. Flatten the piece of dough and roll it through the pasta machine a few times at its w i d e s t s e t t i n g . R e d u c e t h e s e t t i n g a n d c r a n k t h e d o u g h through the machine, continuing until the dough is paper-thin ( n u m b e r 6 s e t t i n g o n m y machine.) Lay out the sheet of pasta. K e e p a s m a l l b o w l o f w a t e r n e a r b y . P l a c e a b o u t 1 tablespoon of the filling every few inches on half of the pasta sheet. Brush around the filling with water. Fold the unfilled h a l f o v e r t h e f i l l e d h a l f a n d using fingers, gently press any air pockets out from around the mounds of filling, seal. Cut into squares using a ravioli cutter. Place the finished ravioli on a sheet pan dusted with semolina or cornmeal until ready to use. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. To finish the ravioli: In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat until the foam subsides and the butter begins to turn brown. Lay in the sage leaves and cook until t h e s a g e i s c r i s p , a b o u t 1 m i n u t e . R e m o v e t h e s a g e leaves to a paper towel. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. In the meantime, bring a pot o f s a l t e d w a t e r t o b o i l o v e r medium heat. Gently add the ravioli and cook at a slow boil u n t i l t h e r a v i o l i f l o a t t o t h e surface and are tender, about 3 minutes. Carefully remove the ravioli with a spider or slotted spoon to a colander to drain. Gently slide the ravioli into the b u t t e r a n d c o o k f o r a b o u t 1 minute. Sprinkle with the sage l e a v e s , a d d i t i o n a l f r e s h l y ground black pepper and serve! Joe and Michele Becci are a brother and sister team who love all things Italian. Together, from opposite coasts, they co- a u t h o r t h e b l o g OurItalianTable.com.

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