L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 17, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano Vigne Surrau: Sardinian Winery Fusing Nature and Art W hatever membrane exists between this life and the universal mystery is palpably thin in Sardinia's Gallura: ancient nuraghi, megalithic monuments left by the island's enigmatic Nuragic civilization, are vibrant in their stillness; collar bells ring out as shepherd dogs herd sheep in the indigo twilight; ageless, fantastic forms of wind-sculpted granite cast their commanding gaze over all; cork forests lost in timeless quietude; all utterances in some divine beyond-language vocabulary by a source that feels, in the moment, not so very far away. And somehow, in the midst of all this, Vigne Surrau, the innov- ative, architect-designed winery conceived as place where art and nature merge, assumes its place upon the Galluran landscape in the most unobtrusive of ways. It would have been easy to disturb the environment with a lesser architectural vision, interfering with all that this very special place has to say. Yet, Vigne Surrau's physical structure, with its modern architecture, seems at once non-interruptive, and yet, at the same time, conjoined to the landscape in such a way that it is difficult to imagine the panorama without it. Indeed, the winery's connec- tion to the surrounding landscape takes on even deeper significance as one realizes that Vigne Surrau wines, too, express a strong bond with the Gallura territory, deriv- ing their mineral personality from Gallura's granite soils. Located in Sardinia's north- east corner, a few kilometers from the beaches and marinas of Sardinia's famed Costa Smeralda, Vigne Surrau can be found on the road from Arzachena to Porto Cervo. The winery produces an impressive portfolio of wines destined for the global market. It is tradition that provides a reference point for the winery's choice of grape varieties. Using local varieties such as Vermentino di Gallura, Cannonau di Sardegna, Carignano and Muristellu (Bovale Sardo), Vigne Surrau creates wines that maintain close ties to Sardinian tradition. In counterpoint and in compliment to tradition, the winery employs modern, state-of-the-art equip- ment and techniques to bring innovation to the winemaking process, such as air-drying Vermentino and Cannonau grapes and using these to produce a sparkling wine with the metodo classico method (Champagne method). In many ways, Vigne Surrau functions as a theater for both winemaking and community activities. In fact, the notion of community is an important underpinning for all that takes place at Vigne Surrau. Visitors to JOEL MACK the winery can taste or buy wine, and enjoy Sardinian food and products in a beautifully con- ceived, comfortable Wine Boutique. The space has achieved in its design an incredi- ble degree of transparency with the landscape just outside. While seated inside, one can't help but feel connected to the outdoors. The structure's physical con- struction attains harmony with the landscape, in part, by having been realized in stone, wood, and glass, incorporating, for exam- ple, local stone to construct the winery's transparent facades and walls. It's a short stroll from the Wine Boutique to an adjoining art gallery specifically designed to feature exhibition previews and temporary exhibition instal- lations. Here, visitors can enjoy the work of Sardinian and inter- national artists. The winery also manages a calendar of interest- ing events such as musical per- formances and evenings of cine- ma. And for those who seek to marry a bit of Costa Smeralda fun with a dose of professional development, there are to be found onsite at Vigne Surrau fully equipped conference-style meeting rooms which can be rented for corporate or private events. And let us not forget that Vigne Surrau is a fully function- ing winery accommodating all the wine production activities that go along with that, from grape crushing to winemaking, bottling and barrel storage. Sound interesting? Winery repre- sentatives are keen to educate and entertain guests with site tours. Vigne Surrau is a place not only of great wines, but of great ideas, a place where memorable wines combine with nature, art, a sense of community, and aston- ishingly genuine hospitality, to make Vigne Surrau an unforget- table, must-do stop year round. Vigne Surrau 'Sciala', Vermentino di Gallura DOCG Superiore Produced from the best grapes selected from Surrau val- ley's finest vineyards. Rests on lees for several months. Focused peachy fruit set as background for more exotic notes of jasmine, ginger, sage, mint, saline, under- lined with stony minerality, round and pleasingly fat in the mouth. A tremendously interest- ing wine, Sciala presents a more intense, structured side of Vermentino, with good longevi- ty. The 2008 vintage which I tasted showed gorgeous notes of petrol reminiscent of cellared Riesling and gave good testimo- ny to Vermentino di Gallura's potential for aging. Vigne Surrau is a place not only of great wines, but also of great ideas, where memorable wines combine with nature, art, a sense of community and genuine hospitality WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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