L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 14, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Favignana: Storied island of sun, sea and stone T oday the sun-kissed island o f F a v i g n a n a o f f t h e northwest coast of Sicily is popular with tourists from across the globe, but in August, 1943 it had visitors of another kind – U.S. soldiers from the 82nd Airborne Division who arrived on a fishing boat char- tered for $3 in nearby Trapani. R e a d y f o r a f i g h t , t h e y i n s t e a d f o u n d t h e p l e a s a n t sounds of water lapping against the rocks and gulls overhead. With no opposition they made their way inland and eventually found an Italian colonel emerg- ing from a farmhouse. Through interpreters they learned he was willing to surrender his garrison of 437 men and three large guns t r a i n e d o n t h e p o r t o f Trapani 20 miles distant. But according to a written account by military historian William B. Breuer there was still a matter of honor to settle. Th e co lo n el w o u ld n o t h an d over his men, weapons and cere- monial sword to a soldier of lesser rank. Returning to Trapani, they consulted with the legendary commander of the corps, Gen. Matthew Bunker Ridgway. "Hell, I'll go," said the gen- eral, strapping on his .45 Colt sidearm. With his men in tow, he returned to the same fisher- man who again ferried U.S. sol- diers to the island. Relieved at the Ridgway's insignia of rank, the Italian colonel handed over his command. Favignana then turned decid- edly peaceful, returning to the timeless rhythms of the seasons and sea. Some gun emplace- ments and pillboxes can still be found on the rocky island, but it w o u l d b e a n u m b e r o f y e a r s before the next strong structures were built and they would serve a much more peaceful purpose – helping supply the Bluefin tuna f o r w h i c h t h e r e g i o n i s s t i l l renowned. Appearing as a stark stone i c e b e r g p i e r c i n g t h e a z u r e Mediterranean, the island like the rest of Sicily has long heard the sounds of war. But through the centuries it also heard the toil of quarrymen, the so-called pirriaturi, whose hard labor and skills forged impressive caves built with the Favignana stone already famous in Roman times. The entire island is dotted with the geometry of disused quarries that resemble Arab gardens, some of them today home to luxury restaurants and tourist o p e r a t i o n s s u c h a s t h e C a v e Bianche Hotel. F a v i g n a n a a n d t h e e v e n smaller island of Levanzo fea- ture some remarkable rock art and cave shelters that date back to around 10,000 B.C. T h e M i u c c i a P r a d a h o u s e h i d e s a m o n g t h e c r u m b l i n g stone ruins and gnarled olive trees of Levanzo with a breath- taking vista once awash with R o m a n t r i r e m e s a n d Carthaginian boats. Not far from the sandy beaches, a decisive n a v a l e n g a g e m e n t s t r i p p e d Carthage of its title Queen of the Seas. In 241 B.C. it was the site of the Roman victory that ended the First Punic War, a watershed event recorded by the ancient historian Polybius. The waters are still rich in artifacts from the famous battle. In recent years remnants of 12 bronze warship rams along with bronze helmets and armor, and widely scattered a m p h o r a , h a v e b e e n f o u n d . Research is continuing. S t a y i n g o v e r n i g h t i n Favignana you can listen to the turtle-doves sing. Other songs called cialome are sung by tuna fishermen, the tonnaroti. Prayers and blessings resounded across the island in t h e 1 9 t h a n d 2 0 t h c e n t u r i e s , before, during and after the mat- tanza, or Sicilian tuna fishing harvest: "Jesu Cristu cu li Santi/ E lu Santu Sarvaturi/Criasti i pisci ammari/Li tunni e li tunnari/U prumettiri e nun mancari (…)". Favignana is also a comune MARIELLA RADAELLI that includes the three islands of Favignana itself, Levanzo and Marettimo, the furthest of the Aegadian Islands from Trapani. F e w t o u r i s t s m a k e i t t o Marettimo to see the gorgeous g r o t t o s a n d c l u s t e r o f w h i t e houses with blue windows on a promontory facing two harbors. Time seems irrelevant to the fewer than 500 residents who have always been fishermen. S i n c e t h e t i m e o f t h e Bourbons, the most dangerous prisoners were sent to a prison on Favignana built around an ancient Norman fort. During the 1960s and '70s, Red Brigade terrorists were housed in the maximum security facility, but today it is home to a handful of less-dangerous internees. Naturally, the local cuisine is rich in seafood. Taste the busi- ate with tuna sauce, the spaghet- t i w i t h l i m p e t s a n d e n d with cassatine and cassatelle desserts. Bottarga, a salted, cured fish roe, and wine from the grapes of Favignana are also favorites. In ancient times Favignana was called Aegusa, meaning Goat Island in Greek. The mod- ern name is derived from favo- nio, warm west wind. How to get there: D a i l y f l i g h t s t o T r a p a n i , accessible by two-hour ferry ride from Trapani. Fishing boats in Port of Favignana in Sicily — Photo by beketoff Favignana, Sicily : sunrise light over a giant tuff cave — Photo by spumador A old plant for the tuna packaging on the Island of Favignana — Photo by Getaway

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