L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 26, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano Valle d'Aosta: Getting to Know Italy's Smallest Wine Region S cene: Customer enters wine shop, proceeds to browse section of Italian wines. Pauses in front of bottles on shelf, labels read "Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle". Store Clerk: Can I help you? C u s t o m e r : W e l l , n o , n o t exactly, but someone stacked bottles of French wine here in the Italian section. Such is the introduction of many wine consumers to the wines of Valle d'Aosta. As Italy's smallest and least k n o w n w i n e r e g i o n , V a l l e d'Aosta faces some challenges with brand identity and interna- tional presence. But, don't be f o o l e d b y i t s s m a l l s i z e a n d modest renown: Valle d'Aosta produces wines of high quality and distinction. One can find Valle d'Aosta located in Italy's extreme north- west, occupying the space above Piedmont and against the bor- ders of France and Switzerland. A n d w i t h o n l y 2 5 3 h e c t a r e s under vine, Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest wine region not only in terms of vineyard area b u t p r o d u c t i o n a s w e l l . T h e JOEL MACK excellent website ItalianWine C e n t r a l . c o m n o t e s V a l l e d'Aosta DOC yearly production average of just 115,750 cases. C o m p a r e t h a t t o t h e s a m e website's reporting of average a n n u a l p r o d u c t i o n f o r Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC at 9,300,000 cases. Some say that Valle d'Aosta is not exactly well-suited for viticulture purposes, pointing out that the region's extremely mountainous territory makes agricultural pursuits difficult at best, and are quick to point out that the alpine altitudes are not exactly hospitable to many of Italy's native wine grapes. W h i l e t h o s e p e r s p e c t i v e s hold some truth, perhaps Valle d'Aosta is more blessed than some tend to think. With cold winters, cool sum- mers and ventilating winds run- ning down from the mountain- t o p s , t h e r e g i o n o f V a l l e d'Aosta is naturally inclined to carry out vine cultivation with- o u t o b l i g a t i o n t o e n t e r t a i n excessive pesticide interven- tions. In the case of Prié, for exam- ple, a native wine grape respon- sible for one of Italy's most sat- i s f y i n g l y l i g h t w h i t e w i n e s , Around the little village of Arnad where La Kiuva Cooperative is based WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES vineyards are situated as high as 1,200 meters, nearly 4,000 feet, Europe's highest. Due to the combination of high elevation and cold mountain habitat, the b l i g h t k n o w n a s p h y l l o x e r a , responsible for having destroyed so many of Europe's vineyards, doesn't live there, allowing Prié to remain on ungrafted vines. And, while true that Valle d'Aosta's high altitudes are not c o n d u c i v e t o g r o w i n g m a n y other of Italy's native grape varieties, it can be argued that t h e r e g i o n ' s e x t r e m e a l p i n e environment does contribute to a unique habitat for well-adapted grapes that do grow in Valle d'Aosta, one that endows the region's wines with personality and character. Among the native wine grape v a r i e t i e s t h a t e x c e l i n V a l l e d ' A o s t a i s N e b b i o l o , k n o w n locally as Picotener and playing a principle role in wonderful wines most notably in subzones Arnad-Monjovet and Donnas. Donnas Nebbiolo is one of the loveliest yet least known exam- ples of Italy's Nebbiolo wines. There is also Petit Rouge, a vari- ety reminiscent of Gamay, one that gives excellent reds espe- c i a l l y i n s u b z o n e s E n f e r d'Arvier and, most famously, T o r r e t t e . A n d t h e a f o r e m e n - tioned Prié, the oldest docu- mented grape variety of Valle d'Aosta, is used to produce the l i g h t - b o d i e d , f r a g r a n t w h i t e w i n e k n o w n a s B l a n c d e M o r g e x e t d e L a S a l l e . W e would be remiss not to mention Moscato Bianco used to make Chambave Moscato in dry and sweet styles, or Fumin, perhaps Valle d'Aosta's highest quality r e d v a r i e t y , w h i c h g r o w s nowhere else in Italy, or in the world, I think, and can produce perfumed, well-structured, com- plex red wines. There exists only one DOC o r a p p e l l a t i o n f o r t h e e n t i r e Valle d'Aosta territory, known as Valle d'Aosta DOC, and it includes seven different sub- zones. There are no DOCG or IGT/P appellations as there are in many of Italy's other wine regions. Adding to the challenge of developing brand identity and awareness in the market is that Valle d'Aosta wines sometimes use French and/or Italian terms on the wine label (French is spo- ken in the region). Consider the opening scene of this article w h e r e t h e w i n e l a b e l n a m e " B l a n c d e M o r g e x e t d e L a Salle" mystifies the customer. O n e c a n a l s o e a s i l y s e e t h e multi-lingual orientation reflect- ed, for example, in the names of subzones as well, such as the a b o v e - m e n t i o n e d E n f e r d'Arvier, Arnad-Monjovet and Morgex et La Salle. But, all in all, with its native w i n e g r a p e s , e x t r e m e a l p i n e environment, modest renown, and quirky bottle labels, Valle d ' A o s t a ' s w i n e s r e p r e s e n t a unique and high quality contri- bution to the incredible diversity of Italian wine. And the simple truth is … we want to see more them on the shelves. Tasting Note: La Kiuva Arnad-Monjovet Bright cherry-red fruit with an attractively moody underside, impressions of roses, saddle leather and spice. Smooth in the mouth with fine, grippy tannins, bracing acidity, hints of citrus peel and almond on the finish. La Kiuva also makes Rosé de Valle, a wonderfully raw, rustic, honest rosé well worth seeking out.

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