L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano I n the tradition of the great American boxing ring announcers: La-a-adies and gentlemen! In the red corner, full of bright cherry flavors and soft tannins, from a small medieval town in Tuscany … Ros-s-s-so di Montepulcian-n-n-o! And in the opposing corner, hailing from the region of Abruzzo, round and velvety in the mouth ... Montepulcian-n-n-o d' A-A-A-bruz-z-z-o! No, it's not a title fight between similarly named Italian heavyweights, not exactly. But, there can be little doubt that for newbies and even some veteran wine lovers, sorting the distinc- tions between wines produced around Montepulciano, a town in Tuscany, vs. those made using the Montepulciano grape, can be, well, one of Italian wine's epic battles. It's not that the distinctions themselves are challenging, real- ly. They are not. Rather, it is the confusion set in motion by one of the most unfortunately similar designations in all of Italian wine that presents the difficulty. Let's spend some time with these champs of Italian wine in their respective corners to sort key differences and learn how to choose the right one for the right occasion. JOEL MACK Hint: the important high-level distinction to draw at this point is that between geography - Montepulciano, a town in Tuscany – and cultivar, the Montepulciano grape. Keep that straight and all that follows is a breeze. Let's start with the official rules, known as the disciplinare, respective to each appellation: The Rosso di Montepulciano DOC requires that Rosso di Montepulciano – again, a wine produced within the environs of a town in the region of Tuscany named Montepulciano – be made from at least 70% Sangiovese grapes from the Montepulciano area. So you see right away that one very key difference is that the cultivar associated with Rosso di Montepulciano is, in fact, Sangiovese, known locally as Prugnolo Gentile, and not the Montepulciano cultivar. DOC rules also require that Rosso di Montepulciano undergo a mini- mum aging time of approximate- ly six months before it can be sold. While we are at it, from around the town of Montepulciano is also produced Vino Nobile di Montepulciano which seems, somehow, to pre- sent less confusion, perhaps because it is often referred to sim- ply as Vino Nobile, thereby side- stepping the muddle. Vino Nobile has its own DOCG-status appella- tion rules and requires a longer period of aging. Montepulciano is a much loved Italian grape that grows throughout central Italy – Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Marche, Molise, down through Puglia, though it is predominantly linked to Italy's Abruzzo region - accounting for more than half of that region's land under vine – where it is used to make a red wine under the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC. DOC law requires that basic Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines be produced from a minimum of 85% Montepulciano grapes (this can vary in subzones). Many Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are meant for young consump- tion, however, the DOC does impose aging requirements (also vary by subzone) with considera- tion to whether the wine may be a riserva bottling. In terms of taste and smell, you will find Rosso di Montepulciano to be communi- cating in a bright, tenor voice, with aromas of cherries and small red fruits, with better examples showing a bit of spice and herb. Tannins are moderate, though pleasantly soft in the mouth. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is simi- lar in spirit though expresses more authority, complexity, structure, and likely, more tannic grip. Both wines drink with a real sense of elegance. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, in comparison, feels round in the mouth, smooth on the palate, and can be made in styles ranging from light and fruity to big, full bodied and unctuous. In either case, the wines typically exude notes of ripe cherry, often darker in tone, that is to say, tending toward black cherry and even plum. Lower tannins issue less tannic grip on the palate, commu- nicating instead with a certain velvety girth. Chances are you will notice a characteristic spicy note on the finish. I recommend you step into the ring and go a round or two with the champs, a little sparring to get the feel for wines of Montepulciano the town and Montepulciano the grape. The wines are easily available in almost any local market. In any case, consider yourself now ready for the main event: whether at home or at a favorite restaurant, the next time you cross paths with either of the Montepulcianos, you'll be a real contender, in shape to better choose the right wine for the right occasion. Tasting Notes: Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano Bright scents of cherry, straw- berry, raspberry fruit, flowers, this elegant wine finishes with pleasant notes of savory herb and spice. Casal Thaulero Orsetto Oro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Round and lush on the palate, lusciously ripe notes of black cherry, red berries, warm brown spice on the finish. The process of adding extra quantities of the same kind of wine (Colmatura).. Courtesy of www.avignonesi.it Wine quality tasting. Courtesy of www.avignonesi.it WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES Montepulciano vs. Montepulciano

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