L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 17 L'Italo-Americano JLIA DELLA CROCE T he first snow clings to the s p l a s h e s o f s t r i c k e n m a r i g o l d s o u t s i d e m y kitchen window. Only yester- d a y , t h e i r l i t t l e m o p - h e a d s b o b b e d u n d a u n t e d , t a u n t i n g winter, as a cold wind whipped m y l i t t l e g a r d e n . E v e n i n November of 2016, to see them in all their flaming perkiness was to buoy my spirits. Staring out at it, I am remind- ed that radicchio, the Veneto's blazing scarlet lettuce, will soon be blooming in all its glory and shipped to our markets. Just in time, too. I love its splash of color on my kitchen counter in the dreary days of winter. Technically a member of the root chicories, radicchio is culti- vated in Venice and Padua as well as in the areas that their various names imply: Treviso, C h i o g g i a , a n d V e r o n a . L e s s known varieties, some green, are also grown in the region, but f o r t h e m o s t p a r t , o n l y t h e globe-headed Verona radicchio makes it to America. There is no end of recipes for the pleasantly bitter vegetable t h a t t h e V e n e t o l o v e s . T h e y roast it, they batter-fry it, they sauté it, they stuff it; they eat it r a w a n d t h e y e a t i t c o o k e d . Perhaps best of all, they stir it i n t o r i s o t t o , w h i c h t i n t s t h e pearly rice grains pink. Making Risotto As any Italian will tell you, making a proper risotto is not a difficult task, as long as you use a tasty broth and suitable Rice. Riso vialone nano is c o n s i d e r e d i d e a l f o r V e n e t o risottos because its grain is high- ly absorbent and lends itself to risotto al onda, "to the wave," that is, soupy, the way the sea- faring Venetians like it. If you can't find it, either carnaroli or arborio will do. The combination of rice and r a d i c c h i o m a k e s a d r a m a t i c looking and delicious risotto. The flavor is particular— deli- c a t e w i t h a n e v e r s o s l i g h t , pleasant bitterness. R i s o t t o w i t h S c a r l e t Radicchio for 5 or 6 people • about 5 cups tasty meat broth • 1 pound red radicchio (any variety) • 1 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 5 tablespoons unsalted but- ter • 1 large red onion, minced • 1/2 cup Soave or other dry white wine • 1-1/2 cups vialone nano, carnaroli, or arborio rice • sea salt • freshly ground white or black pepper Risotto with Red Radicchio at Loggia Rambaldi, Bardolino | Photo: Copyright Paolo Destefanis (www.paolodeste- fanis.com) for Veneto: Authentic Recipes From Venice and The Italian Northeast, by Julia della Croce Various radicchio varieties at the market, Rovigo, Veneto. | Photo: Copyright Paolo Destefanis (www.paolodestefa- nis.com) for Veneto: Authentic Recipes From Venice and The Italian Northeast, by Julia della Croce • generous 1/2 cup freshly g r a t e d p a r m i g i a n o - r e g g i a n o cheese, plus additional for the Pink is the Color of Winter LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES table • 1 / 4 c u p w a n l u t h a l v e s (optional) 1 . P l a c e t h e b r o t h i n a saucepan on a burner behind or next to the one on which you will cook the risotto, keeping it hot for the entire cooking time. 2. Core the radicchio. Wash and dry the leaves, setting sever- al aside for arranging on the serving plates later, if you like. Slice the remaining leaves cross- wise into fine julienne, then chop them roughly. 3. In a large, wide skillet, warm the olive oil and 3 table- spoonss of the butter over low heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is soft and lightly col- ored, about 3 minutes. Raise the h e a t t o m e d i u m a n d a d d t h e radicchio. Sauté, tossing occa- sionalloy to cook it evenly, 5 m i n u t e s . R e m o v e a b o u t 5 tablespoons of the radicchio and set it aside. Cover the pan par- tially and continue to cook until completely tender, tossing the radicchio frequently and always replacing the cover, about 10 minutes. 4 . S t i r i n t h e r i c e w i t h a wooden spoon, folding it togeth- er with the radicchio to coat it evenly. Now stir in the wine. When it has been fully absorbed and the alcohol has evaporated, after about 3 minutes, add a ladleful of the hot broth and stir to permeate the contents of the pan. When the broth is absorbed, add another ladleful of the broth to the rice and cook until it, too, is absorbed. Add another ladle- ful of broth, following the same procedure each time, ensuring that it is absorbed by the rice before adding more. Proceed in this way until the rice is tender, which should take about 25 min- utes altogether. If you run out of broth at the end, you can use hot boiling water to finish up. When it done, the risotto should be very moist, almost wet, and the rice grains should be tender but still somewhat firm at the center, "al onda," like a wave. 5. Remove the skillet from the heat and taste for salt and ad pepper. Stir in remaining butter a n d t h e c h e e s e , w o r k i n g t h e ingredients together for several minutes. This finishing touch, referred to as "mantecare," to whisk or beat, is an essential part of the risotto technique. 6. Transfer the risotto to a warmed, wide, shallow serving bowl, strew the radicchio that has been set aside over the top, and scatter the walnuts, if using, on top. Serve immediately, pass- ing additional parmigiano at the table. Julia della Croce is a print & broadcast journalist and James Beard award-winning cookbook author, cooking teacher, culinary consultant & recipe developer. You can visit her on her website, www.juliadellacroce.com and blog, http://juliadellacroce.com/ forktales1/Connect on Facebook: Julia della Croce - chef & food- writer Twitter: @juliadella croce, Instagram: juliadellacroce

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