L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2016 www.italoamericano.org L'Italo-Americano 9 S tep into Mi Garba, just south of Union Square, a n d y o u w i l l f e e l a s though you have left New York C i t y f a r b e h i n d . Y o u a r e i n Tuscany now, but you might not know it from looking around this Tuscan wine bar. You won't find any of the s t a n d a r d I t a l i a n r e s t a u r a n t tropes here. Instead, the space is sleek and modern. A long, high communal table takes up the center of the room, with more i n t i m a t e s e a t i n g a g a i n s t t h e wall. Angled studio light fix- tures hang from the high ceil- ings. A chalkboard wall lists specials over a marble bar, and a rain barrel holds umbrellas. If you listen closely, though, y o u ' r e l i k e l y t o h e a r a f e w phrases in Italian from the bar's c u s t o m e r s o r i t s m a n a g e r , Giuseppe. You may notice the photographs of lesser-known Florentine views hung from the w a l l s , o r t h e s p a r e b u i l t - i n shelving unit piled with books, bottles of wine, and bags of can- tucci, a traditional Tuscan cook- ie. If you are especially obser- v a n t , y o u m i g h t r e a l i z e t h a t most of the furnishings are by Italian designers. A n d o n c e y o u s i t d o w n , o r d e r i n g a g l a s s o f R i d o l f i Brunello di Montalcino 2010, or a 2012 Chianti Classico by Il Mandorlo Azienda Agricola, p e r h a p s a c c o m p a n i e d b y M i Garba's signature crostini (class T u s c a n - s t y l e t o a s t e d b r e a d topped with spreads made of vegetables, cheese and more), you'll feel it – Tuscany is in the atmosphere. T u s c a n f o o d h a s n e v e r enjoyed the heights of populari- ty in the United States known by Neapolitan, Sicilian, or even Milanese culinary staples. The r e g i o n ' s t r a d i t i o n a l c u i s i n e , k n o w n a s c u c i n a p o v e r a , o r peasant cooking, is often over- l o o k e d b y t h o s e w h o d i d n ' t grow up with it. Tuscan bread is hard and saltless; some of its signature dishes, like ribollita (a make-use-of-leftovers soup of boiled tomatoes and bread) or zuppa di fagioli (stewed bean soup) can be seen as too humble to impress. In fact, these dishes invoke the essential appeal of Tuscan food: it is simple and honest cooking, with pure flavors that compel focused appreciation. Mi Garba understands this. It doesn't only serve authentic T u s c a n f o o d ; i t c o n v e y s t h e heart of the Italian philosophy o f l i f e : L i v e s i m p l y a n d e a t well. I met up with Mi Garba's f o u n d e r a n d o w n e r , A n d r e a T e m p e s t i n i , o n a r e c e n t Wednesday evening at the wine b a r . I w a n t e d t o l e a r n m o r e about how this unique spot came to be, his journey in opening it, and the challenges he faced as an Italian business owner in New York. Tall, with youthful features and a contagious ener- gy, Andrea is good-humored, quick to laugh and very passion- ate about Italian food. Andrea was born in Prato, a s m a l l c i t y j u s t o u t s i d e o f Florence. After graduating from the University of Florence, he u l t i m a t e l y j o i n e d h i s f a m i l y business, Gastronomia Toscana, a company that produces Tuscan food specialties and sells them to grocery stores and restaurants throughout Italy. A few years ago, the company decided to expand internationally. Ambitiously, they chose to start in New York. "The entire world wants to come to New York," Andrea said. "This city is like a window on the future." M o r e i m p o r t a n t l y , N e w Yorkers "get it" – and "it" is authentic Tuscany, its people, its lifestyle, its terroir. "Our goal for the restaurant was not to please everyone," Andrea said. "Our goal was to appeal to BETH CONNOLLY a specific type of person: some- o n e w h o k n o w s a n d l o v e s Tuscan cuisine and culture." With that goal in mind, the food is unquestionably authen- tic. Even the fruits and vegeta- bles are imported directly from Italy. None of the recipes have b e e n c h a n g e d i n a n y w a y t o a c c o m m o d a t e t h e A m e r i c a n palate. "What you eat here is the same as what you would eat in Italy," Andrea said. "Those that known Tuscany appreciate the food and its flavors; even those who haven't been there but have heard about it, enjoy it." It wasn't a simple path to success, though. "This was the most challenging thing I've ever d o n e , " A n d r e a s a i d . " T h i n k about it: different country, dif- ferent laws, different culture, different consumers. The only certain thing was the desire to do it, the determination, and the knowledge that our products are high quality." Yet Andrea was able to open the restaurant just a year after starting to plan – "and without s p e a k i n g t h e l a n g u a g e , " h e added cheekily when I express my amazement at that pace in a city where restaurant openings t e n d t o t a k e u p w a r d s o f 1 8 m o n t h s o r e v e n t w o y e a r s . "Time is money," he said. Andrea is clearly a man on a mission – and not just when it c o m e s t o b r i n g i n g a u t h e n t i c Tuscan food to New York. With the help of a sommelier friend in Florence, Andrea has also craft- ed a list of Italian wines unavail- able anywhere else in the United States. Originally, every wine on the list hailed from Tuscany, but he has added in some other regional selections to offer his customers more variety. Andrea opts to serve wines from vint- ners that are too small to obtain commercial distribution in the U . S . B u t i f a w i n e s t o r e o r restaurant does begin carrying one of his wines, he'll drop it and pick up another undiscov- ered bottle to replace it. Mi Garba means "Mi piace" (I like it) in Florentine dialect. It's just another way that the restaurant feels like home to those of us who know and love Tuscany. Andrea Tempestini's Mi Garba: a slice of Tuscany in NYC A long, high communal table takes up the center of the room, with more inti- mate seating against the wall. Photo courtesy of Mi Garba Andrea Tempestini is clearly a man on a mission Mi Garba doesn't only serve authentic Tuscan food: it also conveys the heart of the Italian philosophy of life: Live sim- ply and eat well. Photo courtesy of Mi Garba NEW YORK ITALIAN COMMUNITY

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