L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2016 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano BEN CARSON ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES A s m a l l M e d i e v a l t o w n perched on a hill is one of the sights that define the Tuscan landscape. You'll have heard of San Gimignano and Cortona, but there's another smaller and equally characterful town out there amongst the olive groves that deserves a visit. A place that clings to the past and treasures its heritage. A place so full of Medieval atmos- phere that entering its gates feels like you're stepping back into the 13th century. That place is Certaldo Alto, just 35 kilome- tres from Florence. The first thing that makes this place feel authentic is the way you reach it. Cars, being the noisy children of the 21st century, have no place here. So your choice is to walk up the h i l l f r o m t h e n e w e r p a r t o f Certaldo, or take the funicular to the top. I choose to walk up along the winding tree-lined road, eventually arriving right outside the walls. Walls so dom- inating they seem to protect the city like an ancient secret. O n c e i n s i d e t h e v i s i t o r i s immersed in a sea of red terra- co tta b r ick s an d p ictu r es q u e avenues that gently guide you towards Via Boccaccio. In the absence of a main square this street has been the heart and soul of Certaldo Alto for cen- turies. And it's here on its time- worn cobbles that you feel the t o w n ' s u n i q u e l y M e d i e v a l atmosphere. From the biforate windows and stone arches to the details on the door knobs, everything has a Gothic touch. Some of these details were apparently added later on in the process of restora- tion. But it's all been done sensi- tively so that the effect is quite m e s m e r i s i n g . A n d o f c o u r s e very photogenic. A l o n g v i a B o c c a c c i o y o u glimpse enclosed gardens and tranquil courtyards. There are small eateries and art studios; roses climb up the ancient walls and the famous Boccaccio tower stands guard above it all. But the real gem is Palazzo Pretorio. A visually striking building that was once the seat of govern- m e n t . C o v e r e d i n s t o n e a n d glazed terracotta coats of arms by the Della Robbia workshop, it's a facade that makes you want to stand and stare. Inside there's a shady court- yard and stone staircases that lead to rooms now used for con- temporary art installations. The courtyard is a peaceful place with slender columns that give it a light etherial feel. So much so, it's hard to imagine the building had also been used as a prison in the 13th century. Of course a visit to Certaldo wouldn't be complete without a v i s i t t o t h e M u s e u m C a s a B o c c a c c i o . W r i t e r o f t h e Decameron and contemporary of P e t r a r c h , B o c c a c c i o w a s a n extremely influential figure in Italian literature, and this house- tower in Certaldo was the place he chose to live out his last days. Tired of all the political schem- ing, he retired to this town that was the home of his father's family, and found peace here amongst its quiet streets. The museum is an important c e n t r e o f l e a r n i n g a b o u t Boccaccio. Aside from its cul- tural value, a visit here gives you the chance to climb the tower and see the town from above. The view over the terra- cotta roofs and the soft hues of the rolling Tuscan countryside beyond are breathtaking. If you only do one thing when you visit the town it should be this, just don't forget to take a cam- era. Boccaccio is buried in the Church of SS. Jacopo e Filippo, a thirteenth century church just up the road from the tower, and next door to the Museum of Sacred Art. Though it sounds like heavy going, this museum houses a small but beautiful exhibition and makes a nice way to round off a visit. Walking out of the city and back down the hill into the mod- ern world, one has the sense that Certaldo Alto is not just a town, but a piece of living history. And personally, I can't wait to have an excuse to pay it another visit. To find out more about the Medieval wonders Tuscany has to offer, visit lovefromtuscany. com Certaldo Alto: Medieval Charm in the Heart of Tuscany Historic buildings of Certaldo (Florence, Tuscany, Italy)— Photo by clodio Ancient alley in medieval village of Certaldo, Tuscan— Photo by toucanet

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