L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, JUNE 29, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 4 LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE RITA CIPALLA C alifornia may have a lock on the production of almonds—the state pro- duces more than 80 percent of the world's supply—but if you have never tasted an almond grown in Sicily, you have never truly tast- ed an almond. Sicily combines the perfect Mediterranean mix of warm tem- peratures and near-constant sun- shine with calcium-rich soil to produce almonds that are unpar- alleled in their taste and flavor. Fresh almonds—those still encased in their hard green shells—have a very creamy, almost milky taste, quite unlike the dried almonds most Americans are used to eating. The southeast corner of the island is almond central. The towns of Avola, Noto and Rosolini, all in the province of Siracusa, are famous for their almonds used in countless dishes from pesto to gelato. In Sicily, almonds are the most prolific tree cultivated after olives, but since they are seldom exported, they are virtually unknown outside the region. There are three types of almonds grown in southeast Sicily: Pizzuta, Romana and Fascionello. Of these, the Pizzuta is considered the queen of almonds, the most flavorful, rich in vitamins and essential oils. It is large and flat with an elongated pointy shape, prized by bakers and confectioners alike. The tree bearing Pizzuta almonds is very fragile and grows close to the sea. The almond's thick woody shell—nature's packaging—holds in the fats, pre- serving both the flavor and the aroma. In fact, it's the hard shells that make Sicilian almonds so tasty. California almonds, on the other hand, are considered soft- shelled. "Almonds are nourishing," explained Carla Monaco, whose family owns a jewel of a pastry shop called Corsino, established in 1889 in the beautiful town of Palazzolo Acreide. "They're brain food. They are rich in vita- min E and are a good source of healthy fats." Corsino created a product line called Corsino 7 that uses all three types of Sicilian almonds. Its stylish shop on Via Nazionale sells an amazing array of almond goodies: chocolate-covered almonds, almonds tossed with thyme, almond butter, candied almonds and more. Compared to other nuts, almonds are the most densely packed with nutrients, vitamins and minerals. They are said to boost energy levels and strength- en the immune system. The oil finds its way into soaps and mas- sage products. One of Sicily's most famous almond sweets is called Martorana. This candied item originated in Palermo in a 12th- century Benedictine convent of the same name. Faced with empty fruit trees during Easter when the archbishop was going to visit, a group of nuns decorated the bare trees with realistic-looking marzi- pan fruit. The colorful candied fruit were a huge success and today local pastry shops carry on the tradition. "Frutta di martorana" are made of almond paste shaped into an endless assortment of fruits and vegetables and then brightly painted with vegetable dyes. Their realism is startling. Mushrooms have "dirt" on their stalks, bananas might show bruis- ing, peaches have a fine coat of fuzz, and cherries come complete with stems attached. "In the old days, the women in the churches would use pestle and mortar to grind the almonds," said Monaco. "Today, of course, we use machines." Even with modern equipment, these tiny works of art are labor-intensive. A single piece can take more than an hour to produce. Almonds were first cultivated in the Middle East and intro- duced into Sicily before 1000 B.C. Considered stone fruit, they are related to peaches, plums and apricots. Besides being tasty and nutritious, almonds are believed to bring good luck, and sugar- coated versions are popular at Italian weddings and baptisms. Each spring, almond trees in full bloom, with their delicate pink and white blossoms, are a sight to behold—a fairyland of soft pastels that transform the landscape. The nuts are usually harvested in the summer when groups of workers beat the branches with long canes and collect the almonds on cloths spread on the ground. There are countless Sicilian cookies and sweets that use "pasta di mandorle," almond paste that is made with whole blanched almonds ground until they form a powder. Another favorite is almond-flavored granita, a kind of crushed ice served just about everywhere in Sicily, particularly refreshing during the hot summer months. Cassata, a traditional sweet made throughout Sicily, is also very popular. Recipes vary but usually include a sponge cake moistened with fruit juices or liqueur, layered with ricotta cheese and chocolate chips, and then covered with a shell of marzipan and candied fruit. Since ancient times, almonds have signified love and fidelity, an association based on Greek mythology. A beautiful Thracian princess called Phyllis fell in love with Demophon, son of Theseus, when he stopped in her kingdom on his way back from the Trojan War. They married but Demophon left after the wedding, saying he would soon return. Phyllis waited years and when he did not come back, she died of a broken heart. A barren almond tree sprung up at her grave. At long last, Demophon returned to Thrace only to find that Phyllis had died. As he mourned at her grave, the almond tree started to bloom. Although the flowering tree was too late for Phyllis, it was just in time for Italian cooks and pastry chefs who could now count on an ample supply of Sicilian almonds to produce some of the world's most delicious cookies and desserts. The Pizzuta almond is considered the queen of almonds. It is large and flat with an elongated pointy shape, prized by bakers and confectioners alike Colorful and realistic-looking candied sweets called Martorana, made from almond paste, can be found in pastry shops throughout Sicily Almonds from Sicily: A delicious taste all their own

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