L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Wines of Lugana: the art of exquisite A few items on my short list of things exquisite:Sunset off Menemsha, Martha's Vineyard Michelan- gelo's "Pietà" Musical counter- point of JS Bach I am, however, inspired to make an addition to that list. H aving recently attended another event celebrating wines of Italy's Lugana DOC territory, I have again enjoyed the privile- ge to taste broadly through a select group of examples. Each event has proven a great tasting experience, granting opportunity to better appreciate the finely etched detail and exquis ite expression which Lugana wines have to offer. Lugana white wines do sip well in summer. But, it must be said, they offer so much more than good summer quaffing. The wines express beauty and charm composed of delicate and fine distinction, and they are to be enjoyed all year long. Straddling Lombardia and Veneto, Italy's Lugana DOC, particularly the southern tip of Lake Garda on the Veneto side, is a smallish area with a big ter- roir advantage. The rare, hard clay found in the area coupled with mild, breezy micro-climate influences of the lake, combine to create rather ideal conditions that give the wines their unique sensory profile. You will find it written that Lugana wines are produced w ith grape variety Trebbiano di Soave, with some sources indicating local referen- ces to that variety as Trebbiano di Lugana or Turbiana. The best practice, I think, is to recognize the variety by its local and perha- ps more historical name, Turbia- na, as it is now becoming gene- rally recognized by that name, distinct from other Trebbiano vines. To expand on that topic somewhat: in his book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Dr. Ian D'Agata explains that in the early 2000's, DNA profiling genetically differentiated Treb- biano di Lugana from closely- related Veneto variety Trebbiano di Soave. The two were formerly believed to be identical. He also points out that further scientific research carried out a few years later apparently "confirmed the synonomity" between Trebbiano di Lugana and Verdicchio (one of Italy's greatest white varie- ties). Yet, as Turbiana, I wonder if the variety hasn't so distingui- shed itself in habitat behavior, agriculture, and more importan- tly, in the wines it produces, that it may be prudent here to avoid pre-conceived notions of "same- nes s " w ith V erdicchio from Marche. Regulations require Lugana wines be produced from at least 90% Turbiana (be aware that not all print has caught up with the s cience), allow ing for 10% approved other non-aromatic white varieties. The production fact of the matter is that produ- cers routinely opt to use 100% Turbiana. Lugana wines are produced at five different levels: normale (basic), superiore, riserva, late harvest, and spumante. It's a great model, actually, as the levels allow w ine lovers to appreciate and enjoy the versati- lity and longevity of Turbiana – yes, Turbiana can age well – up to 3-4 years for normale, 10 years for superiore and riserva. While normale wines highlight energy and freshness, superiore and riserva wines reveal more structure and complexity. Even though Lugana wines are availa- ble at the five different levels, it is the fresh, young style which is the center of market gravity for Lugana and the corners tone upon which the denomination is built, accounting for 90% of Lugana wines. Lugana wines, young and old, transmit an air of aristocratic bearing. Younger examples are satisfyingly fresh with delicate, refined scents of stone fruit, flowers, and citrus, and go long on the finish. A grace note of almond is typical of both young and old Lugana wines and seems to intens ify w ith age. O lder examples can introduce the note of petrol for which classic aged Riesling is well-known. Most examples I've tasted from Luga- na DOC communicate distinctive salinity and, generally speaking, have medium acidity. I totally enjoy the suppleness of Lugana wines in the mouth, the balance of ripe and tart, and their ability to maintain intensity on the pala- te. Add all that together, and you've got yourself an amazing food wine. Lugana wines do not disappoint at table. Slam-dunk food pairings include freshwater fish, shell fish, grilled chicken / pork, cured meats, young and medium aged cheeses, summer vegetables, risotto, most appeti- zers, melon / prosciutto. Happily, Lugana wines are widely available and, with mini- mal effort, you can likely track down most if not all of the fol- lowing recommended producers: Ca' dei Frati, Ca' Lojera, Le Morette, Maragona, Olivini, Ottella, Pasini San Giovanni, Perla del Garda, Roveglia, Selva Capuzza, Zenato. Tasting Note Ottella "Le Creete" Lugana D O C 100% Turbiana, from the subzone area of San Benedetto di Lugana in the Veneto part of Lugana DOC, a true Lugana cru. Scents of stone fruit, flowers, almond and herb overspread the glass. A creamy palate of peach, exotic fruit, citrus, savory herb, wet stone. The wine finishes with vitality and harmony. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2017 Lugana wines are produced at five different levels Photo: Filip Wolak Lugana wines do sip well in summer, but they offer so much more than good summer quaffing. Photo: Filip Wolak

• Cover