L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE PAULA REYNOLDS I taly's towers are an integral part of her appeal, yet com- paratively few remain. At the height of its develop- ment, Lucca boasted 250 towers; today has only 3. The hilltop town of San Gimignano holds the honor of best repre- s enting w hat a hilltop tow n looked like in days of old. Her 17 towers proudly nudge the Tuscan sky, asking if it remem- bers the day when there were 75 standing tall. Pisa's Other Towers Of those remaining, a special handful do so in a most precari- ous way – they lean, just like that famous one. O f cours e, Pisa's well-known leaning cam- panile is the world's icon for off-kilter architecture, and stands (leans?) as one of Italy's most recognizable features. This wed- ding cake style monolith graces travel brochures and pizza boxes worldwide, as well as many a bucket-list for visiting tourists. While the Leaning Tower of Pisa may be the rock star of its genre, Italy is also home to a small group of surviving leaning towers worthy of note. However, thes e often go unn oticed by those other than locals. Not unlike Cinderella's step- sisters, two less-famous leaning towers of Pisa are often over- looked due to the reputation of the more acclaimed one. The Campanile di San Nicola was constructed around 1170 and is believed to be designed by the same architect responsible for the Leaning Tower. Nearby is the tower of San Michele degli Scalzi, also displaying a notice- able lean. Built on the silty soil of the Arno River floodplains, these two tilting towers have maintained their degree of lean over the centuries without the intervention that has been need- ed to keep the Leaning Tower in existence. Although somewhat less unique and glamorous in design, the towers are remark- able representations of quality medieval architecture. Th e Lean in g Tow ers of Venice In general, folks visit Venice for its impressive canals, a gon- dola ride, and some quality time with the pigeons in St. Mark's Square. However, the marshy soil and salty environment of Venezia also give rise -or shall we say sink - to several of its own leaning towers. The most famous tower, of course, is the campanile of St. Mark's Square – the proud red brick spire that announces the grandeur of Venice. But no mat- ter how noble, the unstable soil, corrosive salt water, and wooden beam foundation have brought grief, and even full collapse in 1902, to this landmark. Fully rebuilt after the collapse, the tower began to show signs of compromise once again in 2008. O fficials decided that one famous leaning tow er w as enough for Italy, and massive efforts to stabilize it were suc- cessfully put into place. The immens e tow er now s tands s traight and tall, hopefully secure for years to come. However, three other Venet- ian towers of lesser fame retain their notable lean. Not too far from the Bridge of Sighs, one can take in the slanting view of the Campanile di San Giorgio dei Greci. Built in the late 1500's, this tower began to lean since the begin- ning of its construction. Being the first Greek Orthodox church allowed in Venice, its founders stubbornly continued through to completion. Competing in degrees of tilt with Pisa's tower, the leaning tow er of Santo Stefano is Venice's second highest bell tow er. This s tately tow er exhibits an almost 7-foot lean from its base – another perfect "hold it up" photo op! Original construction took place in 1544; however, the tower suffered a direct hit by lightning in 1585. The strike was severe enough to melt the campanile's bells and cause full collapse, yet the town rebuilt soon after. Standing per- fectly erect for some 300 years, things changed when a 1902 earthquake caused its conspicu- ous lean. Nearby, the Campanile of San Pietro di Castello rises like a regal white pillar... with a slant, and claims the title of Venice's first Renaissance bell tower. Built in the 1500's, this beautiful tower is covered in pearly but heavy Istrian stone, the source of its beauty and its lean. Other Notable Leanings Not far from Venice, in the seaside town of Caorle, stands a remarkable conical tower, the oldest surviving of its kind – the Campanile di Santo Stefano. Completed in 1070, this tower is believed to have served not only as a means of defense, but also as a lighthouse. Standing digni- fiedly upright for over 800 years, the tower began to tilt around 1920 for reas ons yet to be explained. In the meantime, it remains at attention, standing guard over the vast liturgical and artistic treasures housed in the Duomo di Santo Stefano. In its heyday, the bustling city of Bologna was home to close to 200 tow ers , of w hich only a mere 20 remain. Notable, and probably a bit more well known, are the twin leaning towers that grace it's historic cente. The taller and older of the tw o, Asinelli, comes in at 318 feet, while her sibling, Garisenda, s tands at 157 feet. Like Bologna's famous porticos and rich ragù, the twins are an iconic part of the city's identity. G aris enda leans at a s teeper angle than A s inelli, the tilt appearing dramatically danger- ous as if they wished to embrace. Although not reinforced on the outside, the towers are fortified with scaffolding on the interior and considered safe for climbing to the top for a spectacular view. Are They Safe? Italy's many ancient struc- tures and monuments appear to have stood since time began, a testament to man's conquering of the elements. But shifting soil, underground water movement, earthquakes, storms, the occa- sional war, and the passage of hundreds of years have com- bined to degrade and put at risk these icons of Italian heritage. So how do we know if collapse is imminent? Sometimes we don't, as with the case of the Torre Civica in Pavia that gave way without warning in 1989. But situations such as this are more the excep- tion than the rule. Fortunately, science and tech- nology are providing s ome answers, as well as a layer of safety. Many of the larger and more famous towers are fitted w ith w ire exs tens ometers , devices that continually monitor for movement and shift. Other forms of appraisal of soil and water conditions (geotechnical engineering) combine with these means of structural analysis to hopefully give experts data for decision making – and plenty of warning for tourists. Saving Italy's Towers…and More Money may not buy happi- ness, but it certainly could buy the restoration of many of Italy's at-risk heritage sites, towers included. With staggering debt, fewer funds for preservation, and a government that has not shown much focus on maintenance of historic sites, the peril is real. Italy tops the lis t for UNESCO World Heritage sites, but unfortunately has witnessed a cut of more than half of its cul- ture budget over the past 5 years. Italian cultural organizations are seeking other means to preserve their heritage, including move- ments s eeking philanthropic "adoption" of sites or even cities. Additionally, 2014 brought Dario Franceschini on as Cultur- al Minister — a man who real- izes ways must change to save Italy's cultural heritage. With Franceschini's guidance, modern approaches such as crowd-fund- ing and building a system of world-community support are being successfully utilized. Hopefully, these measures will assist in allowing the genius of Italian architecture, leaning included, to be around for appre- ciation and enjoyment for gener- ations to come. There's more than one leaning tower in Italy Asinelli and Garisenda in Bologna, the Basilica of San Marco's belfry and that of San Giorgio dei Greci in Venice: all examples of leaning towers

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