L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano MARIELLA RADAELLI A slice of paradise was created by a land- slide at Mt. Rava a thousand years ago, forming Lake Scan- no, a heart-shaped mountain lake 1,050 meters above sea level in the Sagittario Valley of Abruzzo. "It boasts incredible biodiversity just waiting to be discovered," says Enzo Gentile, a local who volunteers at the Museo della Lana, a museum that tells the story of Scanno and its tradi- tions. As he sits on the shore of the "blue flag" lake, moments of energy catch Enzo's attention as hundreds of swallows twirl in the turquois e s ky. S canno's ancient pastoral traditions are so little altered by modern life that the romantic village still offers a beauty that has bewitched for centuries. Illustrious past resi- dents include Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzio and Dutch graphic designer M.C. Escher. "The youngest son of Welsh poet D ylan Thomas , Colm Thomas, lived by the lake. He died las t year and is buried here," says Enzo. Composer Henry Mancini's father, Quintiliano Mancini, was from Scanno. He left his birth- place for the US in 1910. Last year an historic district street was renamed after the writer of the Pink Panther theme. "Henry Mancini visited Scanno a couple of times and that's it," says Enzo. "I think he was absolutely terri- fied by the tortuo us road to Scanno that D'Annunzio defined as 'horrible and beautiful.' But it's actually the road to par- adise," says Enzo. Mancini's heirs continue to come in the s ummer. "They have family houses here and visit the Italian branch of the Mancini family." Scanno is also called "the vil- lage of master photographers" as generations of great image shapers found inspiration here. They documented the things and experiences that are somewhat unique to the pristine scenery and settlement. "Henri Cartier- Bresson captured the beauty in 1951," says Claudio Alessandro, author of the book Scanno, Il Borgo dei Fotografi. "Stimulated by Cartier-Bres s on's w ork, Mario Giacomelli and Renzo Tortelli visited Scanno in 1957 and again in 1959. Giacomelli's pictures w ere bought by the MoMA in 1964." Scanno's fame spread as a hub for photogra- phers: Gianni Berengo Gardin, Pepi Merisio, Ferdinando Scian- na, Elliot Erw itt and Y oko Yamamoto among others. "The reason of all this interest is not easy to explain," says Claudio. "It is perhaps the land- scape and the fascination of a place inhabited only by women always waiting for their hus- bands to return from the Tran- sumanza, or higher pastures that enable the production of 19 types of cheese," he says. "Or maybe for the sense of mystery created by the crooked alleys and the ancient female cos - tumes, so rich and beautiful." Elderly women still wear the costume muliebre on a daily basis. "It is composed of a dark colored wool skirt with a plain bodice and headscarf," explains Barbara Bennett Woodhouse, a professor of law at Emory Uni- versity in Atlanta who spends several months a year in Scanno. "The wedding outfit is more for- mal with lace collars and silver buttons and a gold chain. All are beautiful." S canno has an unus ually strong cultural identity. "Arriv- ing in Scanno is like stepping back in time, not only because of the town's history and its many traditions, but because of the sense of community that is s o often lacking in modern times," she says. P rofes s or Bennett Wood- house happened to stop here in 2011 and decided that it would be a good site for her field work. "There were many young fami- lies and children playing in the piazza, and the s urrounding streets and stairways seemed wonderful spaces for play," she explains. She returned each year since 2012, drawing inspiration for a book now about to go to press. She had found the place she was looking for, a small community w here s he could study the daily life of Italian children. Her book on the ecolo- gy of childhood is the result. "Scanno had, and still has, a per- fect combination of antiquity and modern design sensibility," she says. "It is beautiful, welcoming and timeless." Houses are artistic treasures, while arches and nar- row steps lead to doorways high up, stairs that are called cem- mause in local dialect. Living in Scanno changed Professor Woodhouse. "It has enriched my life so much," she says. "I always wear the Scanno earrings and a presentosa (pen- dant-amulet created for the bride or future bride) that my husband gave me." The American couple renewed their vows in the village for their 50th anniversary "with Don Carmelo presiding in Santa M aria della V alle," s ays the researcher. "Scanno feels like home," she remarks. "I love the sounds, the smells, the faces, the narrow s treets , the s teep s tairs , the neighbors and friends w ho always greet me with "buon- giorno" and "buonasera" and of course the flowers." Her voice is filled with sheer joy. On the contrary there's a hint of melancholy in the voice of Dino Carfagnini, a 81-year-old resident of Boston who spends more than six months a year in his native Scanno: "My beloved spouse Lucia passed away six years ago," he says. Being alone was difficult. His world changed, but Scanno remains his lasting Garden of Eden, offering pristine air and the tenderness of his childhood friends who still give him loving care. canno's quaintness and beauty inspired many artists. Photo: Cesidio Silla Mystical allure of scenic Scanno ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES "Arriving in Scanno is like stepping back in time… Elderly women still wear the costume muliebre on a daily basis," says Barbara Bennett WoodhousePhoto: Cesidio Silla

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