L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES R aw, cooked, in oil. Fi- nely chopped, sliced, whole or "in its jacket." And then, mashed or rubbed. A way to use it for everyone, garlic remains one of the most hated and, at once, loved ingredients around. Common, indeed, but little known. There are many varieties of garlic and Italy, even though it's not its place of origin, is home to dozens of them, each with very specific organoleptic characteri- stics. Garlic has Asian origins, but the first written attestation of its use comes from Ancient Egypt. Homer cites it in the Odyssey and Pliny the Elder in his Historia Naturalis, listing its beneficial properties: in fact, the Romans used to consider it a sacred plant. During the Middle Ages, garlic was used to keep evil spirits at bay and, during the Black Death epidemic of the 14th cen- tury, it was considered the only available remedy. European folklore said garlic could keep vampires away, so a clove of it was often worn in a sa- chet around the neck. This tradition is tied to the belief vampires were parasites and thus garlic, a natural antibacterial, repulsed them. A very famous Neapolitan rhyme, agli e fravagli, fattura che non quagli. Corna e bicorne capa 'alice e cape d'aglio, was evidently recited to chase malocchio away. Once upon a time, people would wear garlic the night before Saint John's feast, on the 24th of June, to get protection from the witches who notoriously infested the earth to celebrate the largest of their yearly sabbaths, on the summer solstice. Since ancient times, the pre- cious properties of this plant were known and exploited. Garlic fell into disgrace in Renaissance kit- chens, as it was considered too po- pular an ingredient, but kept on being used in medicine, as an anti- septic. In 1858, Pasteur described its powerful antibiotic characteri- stics. Its typical smell is caused by numerous organic sulphur com- pounds. From a botanical point of view, garlic (allium sativum) is a bulbous cultivated plant belonging to the Liliaceae/Amaryllidaceae family, just like asparagus, onions, leeks, scallion and chives, as well as many important ornamental plants such as lilies, tulips, lilies of the valley and jacinth. Currently, China is the world's larger producer of garlic in the world, with India, Korea and the Russian Federation legging way behind. Spain produces the majo- rity of Europe's garlic, followed by Romania and Italy. The Bel Paese, in particular, is known for numerous species, important for their organoleptic characteristics, reason for which they are often pro- tected by specific consortia and Presidi Slow Food. Thanks to its vast territorial di- stribution, various local eco-types of garlic developed, each with its own peculiar characteristics. Aglio di Caraglio VARINIA CAPPELLETTI The area of Caraglio, a small town at the feet of Val Grana's mountains, has always been par- ticularly known for its garlic. Thanks to its proximity to the Alps, winters are cold and snowy, while springs and summers are crisp and ventilated. Such micro- climate gives to garlic (both cooked and raw) a very delicate flavor, which makes it easier to digest. Its long lasting taste makes it an ideal ingredient in typical Piedmontese dishes such as soma d'aj - a bruschetta made with home made bread, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and salt - bagna cauda - a sauce made with ancho- vies and garlic - and green bagnet. After being picked, garlic bulbs are left to dry on trellis and then weaved together, rigorously by hand. Sales of aglio di Caraglio take usually place at local fairs. The majority of its producers prefers it this way, so they can directly explain to customers the history and characteristics of this bulb. This garlic can also be purchased in selected stores. Aglio di Caraglio is also an im- portant example of an economic reality born and rooted in tradition, identifiable with a specific terri- tory and promoted through inno- vative and modern methods, based on the direct contact between con- sumers and producers. Bianco Piacentino It's probably the best white garlic cultivated in Italy, famous for the quality of its flavor and its preservability. It has been reco- gnized as an independent variety in 1982. Bianco Piacentino can last up to one year and for this rea- son its quality is considered ex- tremely high. Its bulbs ore com- pact and hold between 14 and 18 medium-large cloves. Tangy and spicy, it's been awaiting DOP re- cognition. In the Piacenza area, up to the 19th century, Bianco Piacentino was grown at family level. The ol- dest attestations of its large scale cultivation date back to 1922. In the following years, Bianco Pia- centino became more and more popular and, in 1947, a Provincial Consortium for horticulture was created, along with a commercial brand. In later years, the impor- tance of its cultivation grew, rea- ching 10% of the whole land de- dicated to garlic cultivation in Italy, with a yearly production of 3 thousand tons. Rosso di Sulmona It has been cultivated for cen- turies in the Valle Peligna, in the province of l'Aquila. It has very large bulbs of a porcelain-white color, holding 9 to 12 cloves wrap- ped in a wine colored skin. Its taste and scent are both particularly in- tense. It is usually weaved into pleats formed by 54 heads, aligned on two rows. Its fresh flowers are eaten fresh, or used for the prepa- ration of crastatelli sott'olio. Roasted: just one way to use garlic in the kitchen © Ksenija Tojeckina Zavalnaja | Dreamstime.com Finely chopped, sliced, whole, in its own "jacket:" garlic is a very versatile ingredient! © Fedecandoniphoto | Dreamstime.com The Rosso di Sulmona garlic: intense and tasty © Rsooll | Dreamstime.com The many flavors of garlic

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