L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Vino for serious "Sangweech" I n your neighborhood, it may be called a "sammich." But, in the mash-up of English and southern Italian dialect we grew up with, it's refer- red to as a "sangweech." Call it what you may, there have been few items of more cu- linary importance to work-a-day Italian-Americans than the "sangweech." But, let's be clear: a "sangweech" is not a sandwich. Not exactly. I am talking here about deli- cious and comfort-issuing culinary concoctions of a certain Italian- American tradition, created with ingredients like smoked mozza- rella, fried eggplant, roasted pep- pers, olive oil, vinegar and ore- gano, laid out on a long, knife-sliced Italian white bread; or maybe it's sweet capicola, ham, fresh mozzarella, sun-dried toma- toes, hit me good with the olive oil, vinegar and oregano. Again: on a long Italian white bread. Be- cause, although you may indeed place the aforementioned ingre- dients upon whole wheat or multi- grain bread, or (shudder) upon the dubious foundation of pre-sliced bread from a plastic bag, you may not … repeat … may not … call it a "sangweech." In Brooklyn, while standing in line at Lioni, a Bensonhurst shrine to the esteemed "sangweech," I glance up at the menu board, a mouthwatering list of "sangwee- chi," extraordinary descriptions named after Italian-American ce- lebrities: the Frank Sinatra or Dean Martin; the Joe DiMaggio or Rocky Marciano. What'll it be? Stomach growling in anticipa- tion, I place my order, and rumi- nate upon my fav vino picks to accompany serious "sangweechi:" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo The much-loved Montepul- ciano grape grows throughout cen- tral Italy, though predominantly in the Abruzzo region. Montepul- ciano accounts for more than half of Abruzzo's land under vine. The grape is used to make dry red wi- nes with aromas and flavors of ripe red and black cherries, notes of herb, and sometimes cocoa, if the wine has been raised in oak. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines feel round in the mouth, smooth on the palate, with a pleasantly moderate tannic finish. Styles range from light and fruity to big, full bodied and unctuous, giving good range to accompany the layers of flavor that will rock your "sangweech." Produced from a minimum of 85% Montepulciano grapes (this can vary in subzones), most Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are meant for young con- sumption, however, the DOC does impose aging requirements (which also vary by subzone) with consi- deration to whether the wine may be a riserva bottling. Montepul- ciano also makes wonderful rosato wines which you are likely to find labeled as Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo. Recommended producers include Cataldi Madonna,Torre dei Beati, Pietrantonj,Tiberio and Zacca- gnini. Chianti There is a special harmony between young, easy-drinking Chianti and the freshness of just- sliced hot or sweet capicola, fresh mozzarella and basil doused with olive oil, vinegar and oregano, on bread still hot from the oven. Made from principal wine grape Sangiovese, Chianti DOCG wines have intense aromas of cherries and violets, often bring scents of savory herb, are pleasantly dry and harmonic, and offer good acidity and tannic grip to clean the palate for the next bite. Like Montepul- ciano d'Abruzzo, the wide variety of Chianti styles produced offer great range for what's on the bread. Nero d'Avola Comfortably at home in Sicily, where it is the island's second most planted cultivar (after Catar- ratto), Nero d'Avola accounts for approximately 16.500 hectares of vineyards. Listed in Italy's Natio- nal Register of Grape Varieties by its official name of Calabrese, Nero d'Avola derives the name from Sicilian dialect "Calau Avu- lisi," meaning coming down from Avola (little town near Ragusa). Nero d'Avola wines can include flavors and aromas of dark red cherries and berries, floral scents, notes of warm spice like cinna- mon, nuances of minerals and sa- line.Their bright acidity is won- derful counterpoint to the olive oil, cheeses, cured meats, fried cu- tlets or fried eggplant that you mi- ght find on your "sangweech." Chances are you will easily locate Nero d'Avola monovarietal wi- nes, as well as blended with other grapes, as is the case of Frappato and its itunforgettable Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Recommended produ- cers include Cantine Barbera, Gulfi, Occhipinti, Tasca d'Alme- rita, Vigneti Zabù. In closing, I shall leave you with two thoughts. While holding a "sangweech," the use of fancy stemware for wine drinking is forbidden. Tum- bler glasses, please. Even better: marmalade jars designed for use as glassware when empty, very old school. Second – some will consider this ambience, but it's more condiment, really – play some Sinatra in the background: Fly Me to the Moon is highly re- commended. Dean Martin fan? Make it Ain't that a Kick in the Head? Then: squeeze gently, don't crush. Take a bite. Sip. Who can bother you, eh? Tasting Note: Vigneti Zabù Nero d'Avola "Impari," Terre Siciliane IGT Intense aromas of dark cher- ries, blackberries, overtones of anise, tobacco, black pepper. Bri- ght acidity balances softness on the palate. Long and satisfying fi- nish. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2018 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Chianti and Nero d'Avola are excellent reds for your "sangweech." There is a difference between a sandwich and a "sangweech:" make sure you match the right wines with the latter, to enjoy a fully enjoyable experience!

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