L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Franciacorta sparkling wines: all about sensation E ven more than aroma or flavor, my first im- pression of Francia- corta DOCG sparkling wine is all about sen- sation. Harmony, for example, has no aroma, no flavor of its own. But you can sense its presence. The same can be said about structure and energy. Imagine yourself, blindfolded, hands exploring the muscles of an Olympic athlete. You sense structure, harmony of physique, energy. Not to say aroma and taste don't play an important role in Franciacorta wines. Surely, they do: aroma and taste vivify Fran- ciacorta as an attractively char- ming personality animates the Olympic athlete. Italy's Franciacorta wine zone is located midway between Ve- rona and Milan, with Brescia to the south and, to the north, the southern shore of Lago d'Iseo. Franciacorta's rolling hills were carved out some 10,000 years ago by retreating glaciers, accounting for the natural basin in which Franciacorta is situated. Not sur- prisingly, Franciacorta's soil is of mineral-rich morainic pebble and silt. Grape varieties used in making Franciacorta include Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco (up to 50%) and Erbamat (maximum 10%). Erbamat, an ancient white grape variety, is a recent addition allowed into the base Franciacorta blend (except for Satèn), the result of an amendment in Franciacorta's disciplinare intended to assess the variety's potential. Production guidelines for Fran- ciacorta specify metodo classico aka méthode champenoise, requi- ring wines to undergo a second fermentation in bottle. In case you missed the connection, Francia- corta's production method is the same one used for the making of Champagne. While it's fair to say that Franciacorta is inspired by Champagne, to think that Fran- ciacorta wines imitate Champagne would be a mistake. They do not. Franciacorta have a distinctive ri- peness about them, while Cham- pagne seems to communicate more on the wavelength of aci- dity. There is, however, a simila- rity between the two, that being that both brands share a sense of balance that totters on nervous energy were it to shift one way or the other. Franciacorta wines essentially categorize into three different ty- pes. Different dosage or doses, which you can imagine as wine/sugar syrup liquor, lend ad- ditional character within each ca- tegory of Franciacorta. Dosage vary from pas dosé, i.e., no dose, through to the sweet dessert wine demi-sec. In between, from very dry to slightly sweet, lie extra brut, brut, extra dry, and dry, in that order. Franciacorta categories are: Franciacorta, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco (max 50%) and Erbamat (max 10%). Spends at least 18 months on lees, released after 25 months of aging. Available in pas dosé, extra brut, brut, extra dry, sec or dry, demi-sec. Franciacorta Satèn, produced with Chardonnay (majority) and Pinot Bianco (max 50%). Lower bottle pressure yields creamier pa- late. Available in brut. Franciacorta Rosé, from Char- donnay, Pinot Bianco (max 50%), Pinot Nero (min 35%), Erbamat (max 10%). Available in pas dosé, extra brut, brut, extra dry, sec or dry, demi-sec. Franciacorta rewards time in the cellar, too, continuing to de- velop character and complexity, as is demonstrated by two addi- tional Franciacorta indications: Franciacorta Millesimato, which is produced from a single year's wine (at least 85%), typi- cally a year of very high quality. The wine undergoes a longer aging than Franciacorta non-vin- tage and cannot be sold until 37 months after harvest. Available in pas dosé, extra brut, brut, extra dry (excepting Satèn Millesimato). Franciacorta Riserva, made only from Franciacorta vintage wi- nes. This wine sets out to commu- nicate the best of Franciacorta aro- mas and flavors. Franciacorta Riserva guidelines expect Francia- corta Riserva to be released to market only after five years. Avai- lable in pas dosé, extra brut, brut, extra dry (excepting Satèn Ri- serva). Franciacorta are fragrant wines with ambrosial notes of bread crust, yeasty rising bread, subtle citrus, peach, and apple, and what you might recognize as the scent of fruit cake, that is to say, a com- bination of nuttiness and dried fruit. The aforementioned will transfer well to the palate, interwo- ven with that wonderful Francia- corta sensation of harmony, struc- ture, and energy, finishing with a long aftertaste. Depending on the type of Fran- ciacorta, and which dosage has been applied, a truly wide range of food pairings is available. From the most modest of plates to haute cuisine of grand occasions, the range of Franciacorta can offer the ideal wine. Recommended producers in- clude: Barone Pizzini, Bellavista, Berlucchi, Ca' del Bosco, Il Mo- snel, Mirabella, Monte Rossa, Ricci Curbastro. Tasting Note Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut, Vintage 2013 Deep, complex aromatics offe- ring notes of tropical fruit, citrus, almond, spice, scents of pastry. Structured, with a svelte feel, the wine has great energy on the pa- late, flavors of ripe stone fruit, oriental spice, and mint. Finishing with hints of dried fig, raisin, and savory herb, the wine is in a con- sonant harmony that will remind you of Mozart. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2018 Recommended producers are, among others, Ca'del Bosco, Berlucchi and Il Mosnel .P hoto: Franciacorta Consorzio Franciacorta wines categorize in three different types: Franciacorta, Franciacorta Satèn and Franciacorta Rosé @FabioCattabiani Franciacorta are fragrant wines, w i t h a m b r o s i a l n o t e s o f b r e a d c r u s t a n d s u b t l e c i t r u s h o t o . Photo: Franciacorta Consorzio

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