L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 34 L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 2018 Risotto con i funghi porcini I f you ask someone to name a traditional Italian food, pa- sta will probably be the most common response, followed by pizza! I know this is true because it's one of the first que- stions I ask tourists before I start my food tours. Risotto may not always be the first thing that co- mes to mind, but we can't forget what a very popular primo piatto it is and that it is eaten as an alter- native to pasta in many parts of Italy. Today, the Po Valley is one of the largest rice producers in Eu- rope, and where the most famous risaie (rice paddy fields) are loca- ted (Pianura Padana, Lombardia, Vercelli and Novara), so it is no surprise that rice is eaten extensi- vely throughout northern Italy. Se- veral types of rice are grown, but not long grain varieties, which is just as well as long grain rice is totally unsuitable to use when making risotto. Undoubtedly one of the most famous risotto recipes is Risotto alla Milanese, which first appea- red in a cookbook in 1809. In 1929, the Milanese chef Felice Lu- raschi gave the dish its name, Ri- sotto alla Milanese Giallo. His re- cipe calls for rice, fat, beef marrow, saffron, nutmeg and broth, flavored at the end with gra- ted cheese. This contradicts seve- ral lovely legends that date back to 1574, but I would need to write another article to cover those (so far, I've read three different theo- ries). So, back to today, apart from seafood risotto - although there isn't limit to the imagination when making a risotto, as far as ingre- dients go - the other two main re- cipes can be made now, in Au- tumn. We all know that the key to replicating beautiful Italian reci- pes is to respect and follow the seasons. This said, the abundance of pumpkins and Porcini mush- rooms at the local markets makes it clear what risotto we should be making in the Fall. Today I'll share my recipe for Risotto con Funghi Porcini, because this was the first risotto recipe I learnt to make, over 20 years ago, while visiting my twin sister who was living in Florence. Her boyfriend at the time, (a local artist) patiently explained the step by step method to making the perfect risotto. He made me realize it was a serious responsibility to attempt to make risotto, and a responsibility which requires patience, love and tender care. Risotto cannot and must not be rushed. Porcini mushrooms are a deli- cious addition to any recipe and very popular in Italian cuisine. They are known as "gourmet" and their retail price reflects this. Their flavor is strong, hearty and nutty, and one could also say they are "meaty." This species of Porcini is also known as the king bolete or cèpe in French. Its Latin name is Boletus Edulis. This mushroom reportedly has a high protein con- tent, which makes it a great meat substitute for vegetarians. Fresh Porcini are more common for sale in Europe than in the United Sta- tes. When buying fresh mush- rooms, one important thing to keep in mind is that worms like them just as much as humans do. Examine the stalk for small holes. If you find them, stand the mush- room up on its cap and they'll eat their way out of the stem. You may still find some small worms after chopping the Porcini, or you might see them in the frying pan. They are tiny but the good thing to know is that they are harmless and quite common, so if you do accidentally eat a few you'll be fine! (Think: extra pro- tein!). Risotto isn't hard to make, but there are some things that you must keep in mind. The first most important thing is to choose the right type of rice. Carnaroli and Arborio are the most common va- rieties to use; another alternative is Vialone Nano. The reason these varieties are perfect for ri- sotto is because they are short, plump and starchy. It is the starch that is responsible for the creami- ness in risotto, so please don't wash the rice before cooking it. After you have your rice, you must prepare your soffritto – fi- nely chopped onion, carrot and celery (for mushroom risotto, though, I just use an onion), cooked in olive oil until they are soft and translucent. The first part of cooking the rice comes from toasting it with the soffritto. This is really important and you must ensure the rice is covered with olive oil. Stir the rice over the heat, toasting it until the rice is hot. Usually white wine is then added and, when it has evapora- ted, boiling hot vegetable or chicken stock is added, a ladle at a time, to the rice. Then other ingredients will be added, in this case the mush- rooms. To complete the risotto, a final important step is necessary: the mantecatura. To mantecare just means to add butter and par- mesan cheese to the rice and stir them through just before serving, to add extra creaminess to the Porcini mushrooms are aromatic and strong in flavor, nutty and hearty. Photo: Toni Brancatisano Many may often forget, but risotto is a very popular dish in Italy, especially in the regions of the North. Photo: Toni Brancatisano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES TONI BRANCATISANO Continued to page 36

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