L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Moscato d'Asti: not only for dessert A t the recent and always impressive wine trade show known as Simply Ita- lian Wines US Tour, a series of master classes for trade attendees got underway with a ta- sting segment featuring Moscato d'Asti DOCG, one of the most di- stinctive wines in Piemontese wi- nemaking culture. Although conversations about enjoying Moscato d'Asti often seem relative to brunch or dessert occasions, the wine has far more versatility with food than credit given would indicate. On the whole, Moscato d'Asti is one of Italy's most versatile, well-made wines, remarkably fresh, offering serious value for money. Moscato d'Asti is a slightly sparkling wine that undergoes a purposely partial fermentation in pressure tanks, terminated when alcohol reaches about 5 % by vo- lume, part of a production process informed by original winemaking tradition extending back 300 years. Moscato d'Asti is made from Moscato Bianco grapes, a variety with 500 years of viticulture hi- story. In Italy, Moscato Bianco is grown far and wide, though most would agree its main stronghold is in Piemonte. There, the variety's claim to fame includes not only Moscato d'Asti, but Asti Dolce, and the newly unveiled Asti Secco (DOCG status 2017) as well. To- gether those three excellent wines prop up the ASTI DOCG. Along the 60 kilometers of steep hillsides on which Moscato Bianco vines are planted, gra- dients can be as much as 40 to 50 percent, necessarily requiring a handpicked harvest. Harvest must be performed within a rather nar- row time window – less than a week for each plot - in order to capture grapes at their aromatic peak.Vines are typically planted on east, south, and west facing slo- pes, ranging from 200 to 600 me- ters above sea level. Lower hills enhance concentration, higher hills contributing to aromatics. Cold nights and warm daytime Mediterranean temperatures ty- pify the zone's continental climate and contribute to ripeness of fruit and aromatics. A rich diversity of soil types is represented across 52 communes in provinces of Ales- sandria, Asti, and Cuneo. Moscato d'Asti was granted DOC status in 1967, and in 1993, the zone was elevated to DOCG status. Whether Moscato d'Asti is a wine capable of reflecting diffe- rences in terroir is a topic touched upon during the master class pre- sentation. The speaker informally related a conversation where one producer of Moscato d'Asti had said that we generally do not think of Moscato d'Asti as a terroir wine because we simply don't drink enough of it to notice the differences. (Indeed, to my ta- sting, the wines do show differing characteristics). The sentiment seems to correlate with a rather narrow consumer view of Mo- scato d'Asti as a wine primarily for toasting or pairing with des- sert, or minimally, as dessert it- self. If indeed we drink too little Moscato d'Asti to notice differen- ces in terroir, perhaps it is because we consumers have been a bit short-sighted when it comes to pairing the wine to the full spec- trum of food's flavors, thus drinking less of it, never having provided ourselves the broader re- ference point to actually make the observation. To understand that Moscato d'Asti is a wine for the entire meal, a wine that, in addition to sweetness, can also pair well with food's savory, salty, and smoky flavors, is a cornerstone of essen- tial education and market messa- ging that should need to reach consumer ears. The wine's uni- queness allows it to excel in quirky food contexts, where other wines often cannot. Moscato d'A- sti's incredible versatility at table gives latitude to diners who want to push gastronomic boundaries, eating and drinking outside the often boring box. Moscato d'A- sti's low alcohol is very condu- cive to multi-course / multi-wine dining scenarios. And let it be said: Moscato d'Asti is a sensa- tional aperitif! Although it has some sweet- ness, Moscato d'Asti is not cloying. Good Moscato d'Asti maintains an essential balance – sweetness poised against an invi- gorating rush of acidity – harmo- nically accompanied by haunting aromatics of flowers, stone fruit, and herbs. In the mouth, the wine is delicately sweet with gently sparkling crispness and palate- cleansing acidity. In pairing Moscato d'Asti with food, flavor considerations should include sweetness, saltiness, and smokiness. Moscato d'Asti does shine when paired with dry cakes, biscotti, or even fresh cut fruit. I have poured Moscato d'Asti over scoops of ice cream in a bowl. But, the gentle sweetness of Mo- scato d'Asti is also grand coun- terpoint to the saltiness of salumi. The tang of mild Provolone Val- padana or the sharpness of that cheese's piccante version, are de- lightful with Moscato d'Asti. Pair it with seared duck breast in cher- ries and port sauce … you'll be- gin to see the light. Recommend producers in- clude Bocchino, Chiarlo, Icardi, Saracco, Vietti. Tasting Note Giuseppe Bocchino Moscato d'Asti DOCG[Text Wrapping Break]Ripe fruit, savory herb, floral notes, overtones of citrus, brown spice, honey. Efferve- scence and acidity in perfect pitch (Looking for importer). Moscato d'Asti is made from Moscato Bianco grapes, a variety with 500 years of viticulture history Moscato d'Asti shines when paired with dry cakes, biscotti and fresh fruit JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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