L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 40 L'Italo-Americano Vino da Meditazione T oday's topic is vino da meditazione or medi- tation wine. Although I understand the attrac- tion to unroll a yoga mat within arm's reach of the wine glass, I shall dampen enthusiasm before it runs high: we are not talking about that kind of medita- tion. The online free encyclopedia Wikipedia credits Italian gastro- nome, wine critic, and intellectual Luigi Veronelli with coining the phrase vino da meditazione for dessert wines. Today, interpreta- tion of vino da meditazione has broadened somewhat, depending upon to whom you may be speaking. Opinions about what constitutes a vino da meditazione abound. Some sources indicate that meditation wines should be sweet wines like, say, passito. Others assert that meditation wi- nes are to be appreciated without food in order so that the taster can concentrate on the wine's com- plexity. There is, too, some debate about whether or not wines with bubbles qualify as vino da medi- tazione. There even exists disa- greement regarding the "medita- tion" itself, that is to say, whether it should be focused solely upon the wine or include the taster's thoughtful meandering. While there may be some truth in each of those points of view, no one of them, alone, represent the whole truth. To my thinking, vino da medi- tazione is a class of Italian wines of tolerant definition that invite and inspire reflection upon their complexity, uniqueness, or even age. And while the "meditation" may begin with contemplating, say, a wine's complexity, it is na- tural that thoughts wander and bridge to other topics – life, rela- tionships, spirituality, etc. – thus deepening the introspection. In any case, reflection is the key word. If that reflection should in- volve a nibble of gorgonzola cheese, if the wine is a dry one, or a sweet one, red or white, then so be it. Here are a few vini da medita- zione which I have enjoyed both in quiet solitude and in good com- pany: Vin Santo Made from native grape varie- ties such as Trebbiano, Malvasia, or Sangiovese, Vin Santo is parti- cular to the Tuscan tradition. Gra- pes are withered using the tradi- tional method of natural drying known as appassimento. The wine takes on a lustrous amber color similar to polished copper or buf- fed leather, showing notes of dried and ripe fruits, nuts, citrus peel, even caramel, with an unctuous mouthfeel. The version known as Occhio di Pernice – eye of the par- tridge – is a rarer, rose-colored style made with red grapes holding a majority stake in the blend. Re- commended producers include Avignonesi, Beconcini, Crociani, Felsina, Sangervasio. Passito di Pantelleria Made from Moscato di Ales- sandria aka Zibibbo. Grapes are withered and dried to concentrate their sugars. Passito di Pantelleria can impress as being richer than Vin Santo, expressing the natural honeyed sweetness of golden rai- sins, apricots, and candied citrus peel with greater intensity, often against a background of Mediter- ranean scrub notes. Vivid fresh- ness on the palate keeps it all in balance. Recommended producers include Donnafugata - producer of the widely available and deli- riously delicious Ben Ryé – De- Bartoli, and Ferrandes. Malvasia di Bosa With just 15 or so hectares of vineyard area, Malvasia di Bosa is one of Italy's smallest though well-awarded DOCs. Located in Sardegna on the island's western side, Malvasia di Bosa is truly a high-quality, small-production product: total production in 2014 amounted to only 1,570 cases (sta- tistic, italianwinecentral.com). Rich and dense on the palate, Mal- vasia di Bosa is a golden color, with scents and flavors of apricot, fig, honey, almond, herb, and a balanced sweetness. With reference to the afore- mentioned debate about what exactly constitutes a vino da me- ditazione and whether or not dry wines qualify: I will admit that sweet/dessert wines are more of- ten categorically correct. But I have been moved to contempla- tion with certain Barolo and Ama- rone wines, too, ones of a certain age or particular uniqueness. Point is that while I wouldn't include all Barolo and Amarone as vino da meditazione, I recognize that some may indeed qualify. It seems fair to say that vini da meditazione are intellectual wines that ask for the taster's attention in order to receive their full mes- sage, prompting thoughtfulness, contemplation, reflection, in my experience, beyond what is in the glass. Examples mentioned in this ar- ticle are a good place to begin an exploration of vino da medita- zione. There are still more worthy of mention, which the brevity of this article cannot accommodate, Marsala, Picolit, Verduzzo Dolce to name a few. But, this is no con- cern us. The important thing is to choose a comfortable chair, near a warm fireplace perhaps. Or grab a good book and favorite blanket. Pour. And dream. Salto di Coloras Malvasia di Bosa Dolce Notes of apricot, fig, honey, Mediterranean florals, almond. Velvety and dense on the palate with gloriously long persistence. It can accompany pastry, paté, and blue cheese, if you are so incli- ned. … and while meditation may begin on wine complexity, there is no limit to the depth of introspection offered by these wines. Photo credit: Donnafugata Vino da meditazione is a class of Italian wines that invite and inspire reflection upon their complexity. Photo credit: Donnafugata JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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