L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2019 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE Thinking of Driving in Italy? A few pointers for a great experience PAULA REYNOLDS R enting a car is easy enough. It's all that comes afterw ards that can create enough material for a good sit com! I still chuckle at the expres s ion of horror on friends' faces as I enthusiastical- ly answer "Yes!!" when asked if I drive in Italy. After all, a stick shift in hand (automatics are hard to come by) and a full tank of benzina are the ticket to the delicious freedom of discovery for all that awaits down a wind- ing Italian country road. Howev- er, any Mario Andretti wanna- be will be thankful to have a little pre-trip knowledge under the belt before putting the pedal to the metal. Train or Car?? Th ere are any number of things Italy does well, and public transportation is one of these. Trains and bus es can eas ily transport to just about every major city and substantial sized town. Be kind to yourself — use them! Renting a car with the notion of taking a little sight-see- ing tour "da solo" in Rome or Milan or Naples or even Flo- rence is just not a good idea. Ever. A Tuscan friend tried to persuade me of this point some years ago, and after trying to navigate Florence – alone – no GPS – I know what I'm talking about. Once you've seen the big city sites, it's time to visit the rental car office. The picture postcard world of small villages, winer- ies, historic centers, and numer- ous other w orthw hile s ites become yours! Most rentals are now equipped with a GPS, mak- ing backroad traveling easy, but I do recommend an old-fash- ioned map be kept on hand. On one trip, a lilting Italian GPS voice kept insisting we drive down a staircase in Sicily. Prob- ably not a great idea. I've been guided to proceed through a farmer's gate more than once, as well. All that aside, one of the greatest joys experienced as a driver in Italy can be getting lost. So often it presents the memo- rable gift of a wonderfully unex- pected experience! Italian Roads Germany has its Autobahn, Daytona has its 500, and Italy has its Autostrada. These major s ix-lane s peedw ay s connect north to south, east to west via a (mostly) well maintained system of toll roads. Put your sensitivi- ties behind you, get a steely grip on the wheel, and drive with the commitment of a 50-year mar- riage – and you'll do just fine! The basic rules of the road are fairly simple: stay in the far- right lane. Pass if you must but scurry back to the right or mid- dle lane without delay. It's a bit like a turf thing – the left lane is for the experienced Italian dri- vers who brush off a speed cam- era like a pesky fly on their pasta. The 130 km speed limit (81 mph) is a mere suggestion, as are painted lane markers, and you do not want to be in the way when a speed racer comes blow- ing through. Which brings me to the "s ymbolog y" one might experience if not back in their lane quickly enough. Italian dri- vers are skilful, confident, and truly not aggressive as might be perceived. But the unspoken rules of the road are solid and they're not timid about remind- ing you. Flashing headlights equate to move over…NOW. Riding a bumper so close that you can count the fillings in the driver's teeth means the same. And those hand gestures? No explanation needed. The "minor roads" are what most would consider the scenic route – small, winding two-way passages that meander through landscapes surely made from dreams. These are worth every w hite-knuckle A utos trada moment it might take to get to one! Don't get too distracted by the beauty, however, as staying in one's lane is als o filed under "suggestioN." It's quite a common (and jolting) experi- ence to round the next curve to find a Fiat coming full speed ahead…in your lane. Beware the Unexpected Whizzing down the Autostra- da in your shiny rented Ferrari (or Panda) is an easy set up for going full throttle to race the Lamborghini that left you in its dust. However, with the plethora of automated speed cameras, that momentary thrill will catch up with you by way of an unpleas- ant fine. K now n as "A utovelox," fixed s peed cameras never sleep. The newer, savvier version called TUTOR SISTEMA is even more refined. A photo is taken at point A, then again at point B with average speed calculated to show how egregious your crime was. Even if high speed driving is not your thing, driving in any size town or village comes sprin- kled with unexpected hazards. The most notorious, in my opin- ion, is that simple white sign with a red circle: the Zona Traf- fico Limitato (ZTL). P laced amongst what often seems to be 20 other signs, the ZTL has one meaning for a non-native driver: DO NOT ENTER! Typically found at the beginning of pedes- trian zones, historic centers, or neighborhoods, most ZTL's are accompanied by a camera that will assuredly capture your mis- take. It will take months before the beautifully embossed enve- lope from Italy arrives…with a massive fine inside. Been there, done that. Roundabouts are another pos- sibly unexpected experience for the visiting driver. Traffic lights are rare, and it's crucial to be aware of roundabout rules: those entering yield (but jump in deci- sively!), swing to the far outer lane if departing at the first exit, be wary of tourists like yourself that might not know these rules. Most roundabouts are accompa- nied by a jillion or so directional sign to every hamlet within 20 km., but no problem – just drive in circles until you finally spy the one you need! Inevitably the need to fill the tank will arise. The majority of stations are manned (Servizio); very nice if you're feeling unsure…or the one pump is sit- ting inches away from the road. Initial impres s ions invoke thoughts like "Cheap gas!"; how- ever, that 1.50 means per litre, equating to an average 6.00 USD per gallon. Save a little and park in front of pumps marked "Fai da Te" – self serve. If the station is open, simply pay the attendant. If closed (think Sundays, holi- days, occasional strikes), a handy machine w ill take your cas h (rarely a credit card) for an exact amount – and they'll keep the change if you over-estimate. Be mindful, however, of whether the car takes unleaded (senza piom- bo) or diesel (gasolio) in order to avoid a very costly mistake. Travel comes w ith chal- lenges, even frustrations, and that's certainly applicable when choosing to drive in Italy. Of course, there are many more con- siderations than those addressed here, but the payoff is quantifi- ably positive. Experiences of a lifetime await…Andiamo! Be aware of the ZTL, areas with limited traffic where cars are not allowed: most historical city centers are like that © Lornet | Dreamstime.com Il vigile urbano: controlling traffic with flair © Elvira Kolomiytseva | Dream- stime.com

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