L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 7, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS DESIGN R o m e ' s h i s t o r i c a l Termini train sta- tion is probably the l a s t p l a c e y o u ' d expect to find any- thing worth more than a brief pause when it comes to dining experiences. Certainly, a luke- warm piece of pizza or a half- stale brioche will do to stave off the mounting protest of your stomach until you can find a real m e a l . A n d b e s i d e s , w h o h a s time for much more when rush- ing from platform to platform? S c e n a r i o s s u c h a s t h i s m i g h t ' v e b e e n t h e n o r m f o r decades, however, things have changed within the walls of Ter- mini since the launch of Merca- to Centrale Roma. Thanks to the e n t r e p r e n e u r i a l g e n i u s o f founder Umberto Montano, the collaborative concept of quality foods and wines offered from actively participating producers has transformed Termini's culi- nary scene. The Mercato opened its doors in the fall of 2017, fill- ing over 6000 square feet of reclaimed retail space. What was last a failed piano store is now a first-class assortment of food stalls and products offered up by artisan producers from all reaches of Italy. Montano is a man blessed with a mindset that not only val- ues quality foods and passionate producers, but also understands the necessity of human connec- tion. As Montano has stated, "…you want to touch people's hearts…every single detail is important." With five Floren- tine restaurants already to his credit, Montano saw wild suc- cess in 2014 with the creation of his Mercato Centrale located within Florence's semi-aban- d o n e d c o v e r e d m a r k e t , S a n Lorenzo. The concept was sim- ple. Bring together something Italy does best – food and wine – y e t g i v e t h e p r o d u c e r t h e opportunity to be the approach- able star and share the limelight, as well. T h e r e v i t a l i z a t i o n o f S a n Lorenzo and the overall success of the food market gave Mon- tano the confidence and desire to take on a second, more challeng- i n g m a r k e t p r o j e c t w i t h i n Rome's Termini station. The grandiose Cappa Mazzo- niana, designed in the 1930's by Angiolo Mazzoni, is a cavernous area within Termini station. Its impressive three-story design is centered around a modernistic, mammoth marble oven hood or cappa; thus, its namesake. Origi- nally intended to house the sta- tion's central cafeteria, the pro- ject never saw completion. As if cursed, the location saw failure after failure in attempts to create a successful retail space. T h a t i s … u n t i l U m b e r t o Montano got his hands on it. With a team of visionaries at his side, Montano began restora- tion of the towering space. The lowest level was designed to mimic a traditional Italian mar- ket. Fifteen food preparation and presentation stations were aes- thetically built in an arena-style arrangement. The stations encir- cle an inviting seating area big e n o u g h t o h o l d 5 0 0 p a t r o n s , making browsing of the various offerings flow smoothly. This is certainly not your average food court, however. As with Mon- tano's Florence market, match- ing producers to the concept was paramount. The resulting roster became a virtual star-studded cast of artisan food and wine producers who also "got it" – bring the best of Italian foods, a willingness to explore new para- digms, and a culture of commu- nication with your patrons. Furthering Montano's desire not only to bring vitality to the inside space but add a positive element to the less-than-glam- ourous Esquiline neighborhood surrounding Termini, the upper floor was restructured to serve as a space for events and gather- ings. What about the middle floor? W h y n o t r e c r u i t a M i c h e l i n award-winning chef and open up a restaurant! Oliver Glowig's La Tavola, il Vino e La Dispensa offers diners the experience of creative gourmet cuisine paired with hand-picked wines...in a train station. As Oliver himself puts it, "discipline and precision …with Italian creativity and inventiveness" have proven to be a winning combination. Mercato Centrale Roma cele- brated its first birthday in Octo- ber 2017. Reflecting on the suc- cessful year, Montano shared that this venture was the first in which he was actually doubt-rid- den and nervous. But it was all for naught: within those first twelve months, success equal to Montano's Mercato Centrale in Florence had come to fruition. Roman citizens, tourists, and train patrons alike have paused to feast and drink amongst a p l e t h o r a o f f o o d s a n d w i n e , while seminars, events, and fes- tivals have found an energetic home. At the one-year mark, over 2.5 million visitors had found their way to the market. And, with a business value of 15 million euro and the resulting 200-plus new jobs, the economic impact for Rome has been as equally delicious as the food! Rome's epicurean delights are legion, of course, and always worthy of exploring. But thanks to innovative ventures such as Mercato Centrale Roma, a quick lunch or dinner break doesn't have to be a culinary sacrifice while in The Eternal City. Why suffer a vending machine bag of chips when just a few minutes more could bring the chance to savor Gabriele Bonci's piping hot pizza creations, or maybe Beppe e i Suoi's famous artisan cheeses, or even a carved to order steak from famed charcuti- er Roberto Liberati! No time for that, even? Make haste with a freshly made panino or a sack of just-picked organic produce to enjoy in route. Like most energetic entrepre- neurs, Montano isn't resting on his laurels. Next up? A similarly designed city market for Turin scheduled to open in March of 2019. The chosen location is the age-old Porta Palazzo, Europe's largest open-air market. Within the grounds sits the Palafuksas, an almost 50,000 square foot building designed in the 1990's to serve as the market's clothing pavilion. Yet, akin to Cappa Mazzoniana, original plans fell short and a line of failed ven- tures and temporary exhibits inhabited the glass and metal s t r u c t u r e . W i t h M o n t a n o ' s Midas-touch philosophy, how- ever, one can safely say that that the winds of change are blowing hard in Turin. " I f I h a d t o s u m u p w h a t Mercato Centrale is, I'd liken it to a meeting place. It's a space that breathes beauty, culture and art, an exhilarating experience that transcends the simple act of buying or eating something. Our approach to food is shaped by a very rigorous and authentic phi- losophy." ~ Umberto Montano The Mercato Centrale is part of the famous Stazione Termini, the capital's largest train stationi. Photo courtesy of Toni Brancatisano PAULA REYNOLDS Mercato Centrale Roma - Termini Station's foodie haven

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