L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 18, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano T he Italian autostrada undulates ahead, an unending gray ser- pent holding you captive mile after mile as hunger pangs rumble, begging to be satisfied. But ful- fillment is coming – an Auto- grill beckons at the next exit! As the golden arches are to America's hungry highway trav- elers, so is the giant "A" to those road tripping dow n Italy's autostradas: assurance that food, drink, and rest await! Found along every major and minor Italian roadway is an Autogrill – a collective roadside stop for quick cuisine, plentiful bever- ages, and some pretty amazing shopping. To appreciate the humble beginnings of what is now a mega-conglomerate with opera- tional holdings in 40 countries, a look back to post-war Italy tells the story. It was the year 1947 when the son of a baker, Mario Pavesi, opened a humble road- side stop near the Novara toll station in northern Italy. Show- casing his families Pavesini bis- cuits (which are still available today), the small shop offered a comfortable place to rest, have some coffee and a snack, and stretch one's legs before rejoin- ing the road. The 1950's brought economic boom throughout Europe; more consumer dollars meant more motorists and commercial traffic took to the highways. Pavesi A u togrill Bar kept s tep: a restaurant was added, along with many more offerings for the hungry traveler. The bar, figura- tively and literally, had been set for the Italian Autogrill model. Two competitors, the Motta- Grill and A lemagn a b ars , joined the burgeoning popularity of roadside stops during this expans ive time of economic optimism. Between the three rivals, an explosion of futuristic architectural s how places appeared along Italian highways. In 1959, Pavesi built the original bridge-style Autogrill between Parma and Piacenza, a first-of- its-kind in Europe. Not to be out- done, Motta-grill dominated the motorway between Florence and Bologna with its modernistic mega-building, which to some looked sheepishly similar to Pavesi's landmark. The race was on, as roads ide s tops that would've impressed George Jet- son himself appeared throughout Italy, many becoming destina- tions unto themselves. The bubble burst, however, when the 1970's brought finan- cial crisis and steep downturns to the entire auto-related industry, including the over 200 rest areas under Pavesi, Motta, and Ale- magna. The lifeless companies were acquired in 1977 by the now defunct I s titu to per la Ricostruzione Industriale, a government agency that rescued businesses in danger of going under. Collectively, the acquisi- tion was crowned with the sim- ple title of Autogrill. Further privatization occurred in the 1990's with the Benetton family becoming the largest sharehold- er. Although a relative newcom- er to the Italian scene, Autogrill became and remains the quintes- sential icon of the Autostrada experience. There are a few minor competitors, such as Chef Express and Sarni, that hold a grip on single digit percentages of the market share. However, unless it's a caffeine or bodily emergency, many prefer to hold out for an Autogrill. And that's not by accident. It's fairly obvious that marketing genius is at work within the aver- age Autogrill. Once inside the door, the deluge of s ens ual assault begins. A bar buzzing with the sound of clinking cups busily slings one espresso after another as patrons ponder over which pastry they'll add to the ticket. Depending on the size of the Autogrill, food offerings range from freshly built panini and salads to full meal offerings of steaming pasta, savory meats, seasonal vegetables, luscious desserts, and anything else nec- essary to constitute a proper full cours e meal. With w ine, of course! An overabundance of shop- ping experiences await, as well. Enticing displays of local meats, cheese, condiments, and wine along with books, toys, gadgets, and enough chocolate to intimi- date Willie Wonka are savvily arranged in a meandering con- sumer gauntlet leading to the one-way exit past the cashier. Brilliant design, wouldn't you say? But how does Autogrill keep itself viable and in touch with modern trends? True to its ori- gin, the corporation maintains forward thinking paradigms and has recently incorporated their first motorway "Bistrot" in the original Fiorenzuola d'Arda bridge Autogrill built in 1959. Created in collaboration with the University of Gastronomic Sci- ence in Pollenzo, the platform focuses on in-season, locally sourced and sustainable products featuring local culinary styles. An eclectic design seeks to set the mood of a city market where seasonal and inviting products are presented in clean, industrial- chic stylization. Various loca- tions within the building offer quick meals including smoothies and juices, or heartier options such as freshly made pasta, street style foods, and deli type selec- tions, all sourced from within the region. Vegan options are being added, as well. This agenda will eventually be added to all major Autogrills. In keeping with this trend, Autogrill teamed up with Iden- tità Golose, Italy's acclaimed international chef forum, in 2012 and collaborates yearly on innov- ative ways to improve the road- way food industry. As a part of this collaboration, a partnership with Dr. Mauro M. Mariani, a vascular specialist, was forged to focus on the specific food needs of travelers . A n A u togrill s pokes pers on s tated, "…w e wanted to go a step further…we developed a new approach to food that uses high-quality, tasty yet nutritionally balanced prod- ucts based on strategies with Dr. Mariani's help. We share his idea that food is a key factor that affects our wellbeing…" Italy, however, is not the only country benefitting from Auto- grill's offerings. Through a high- ly successful acquisition in 1999 of Host Marriot Services Corpo- ration, Autogrill holds a pres- ence as HMSHost through vari- ous brands in over 80 airports and 100 gas stations throughout the United States. Did you enjoy that ooey-gooey Cinnabon cinna- mon roll or maybe that savory Chick-fil-A sandwich passing through your last major airport? There's a good chance you can thank Autogrill. HMSHost brand presence is also in place in many interna- tional locations. Forward think- ing is at work here, too. Great care is taken to match brands to local cultures , cus toms , and products that will best serve the traveler. A perusal of the official Autogrill website is eye-opening to the plethora of brands living under the umbrella of HMSHost/Autogrill! From its humble but visionary beginnings, Autogrill and its vast worldwide holdings became and continue as one of the true pioneers and active formulators of the best of roadside stops. Per- sonally speaking, I can't wait for my next chance to dine as I w atch the roads ters w hiz by underneath my comfortable lunchtime post in an iconic Ital- ian Autogrill! PAULA REYNOLDS Autogrill, the ubiquitous rest stop every Italian — and everyone who has travelled in Italy — knows © Mark Milstein | Dreamstime.com The most famous Autogrill in Italy, between Parma and Piacenza © Cre250 | Dreamstime.com LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE Italy's iconic Autogrill

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