L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, APRIL 18, 2019 LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Fregula, a typical pasta shape from Sardinia, is lightly baked before being boiled © Oxana Denezhkina | Dreamstime.com Continua da pagina 28 Tuna-based dishes come es- pecially from the island of San Pietro (Sulcis) where, once upon a time, Ligurians chose to live. In 1542, they colonized the Tunisian island of Tabarca (from here the name tabarchina given to local cuisine). But after their relation- ship with the Arabs turned sour some two hundred years later (it was 1738), and because of the de- pleting of local coral reefs and the consequent decay of its trade, they eventually moved to the Island of San Pietro, which was inhabited at the time. It was King Carlo Emanuele III of Savoy who in- vited them to do so. Sardinian durum wheat semolina is of the highest quality, consequently the pasta produced here is excellent: Sardinian gnoc- chi , malloreddus, delicious with cheese and saffron; the macar- rones de busa, a sort of bucatini made with a special iron, and the fregula, a truly unique pasta the size and shape of a grain of corn, which is toasted in the oven and then boiled. A classic of Sardinian pas- toral cuisine is roast suckling pig flavored with myrtle or rosemary (porceddu or porcheddu) as well as dishes with kid and lamb. Wild boar is cooked using the carraxu method, that is, baked in an un- derground hole, lying on myrtle and thyme and covered with earth over which a fire is lit. There is no meal without bread, and from the Sardinian ovens come both "crunchy" deli- cacies such as Pane Carasau and Pane Guttiau, and softer ones like Modditzosu, fragrant and scented with mastic leaves. As already mentioned, sheep's cheese "is to Sardinia what pizza is to Naples"! Pecorino Sardo, Fiore Sardo and, despite the name, Pecorino Romano, are the three main DOP productions (Protected Designation of Origin) of the re- gion, made with milk from a na- tive sheep breed that can produce up to 300 liters of milk per year. And we cannot avoid mention- ing the most bizarre of all cheeses, the casu marzu, or literally "rotten cheese," one of the most debated delicacies coming from Sardinia. It is a pecorino cheese wheel were an insect (the Piophila casei) deposits its eggs; its larvae, feed- ing on the cheese, create a chem- ical reaction that modifies its pro- tein content and, consequently, its flavor, which becomes partic- ularly intense. Fresh cheese and ricotta are also used to make some of Sar- dinia's typical desserts, such as Casadinas and Pàrdulas. Other typical products of regional con- fectionery production are almonds and citrus peel. Drink Cannonau and you'll leave to 100! It's time to make a toast! And what a toast, consid- ering grapes have been the main cultivation in Sardinia for millen- nia. There are 19 wines with a De- nomination of Controlled Origin (DOC), and one with a Denomi- nation of Controlled and Guaran- teed Origin (DOCG), the Ver- mentino di Gallura, which, along with sweeter wines such as Mal- vasia di Cagliari, Giro or Nasco complete the wine scene of this beautiful region. And now, let's prepare lunch! Sardinian recipes are not only quite difficult to prepare, but their ingredients are also strongly tied to the territory so, if you can't find them, there a risk of not ob- taining the result you're looking for. Below you'll find a series of simplified, but tasty recipes of great effect: a sure success on your table! This are two of Sardinia's most traditional pastas, fregula and malloreddus. Fregula •1 1/2 cups of coarse durum wheat semolina •1 small portion of saffron •2 cups of water •salt DIRECTIONS 1. Mix the saffron and salt in the two cups of lukewarm water. In a large, high container (a crock pot is traditionally used), add the semolina little by little and, using your hands, stir with circular mo- tions, while adding the water and saffron mixture little by little. By doing so, small "balls" of dough, similar to corn kernels will form. As soon as you have reached the quantity of a cup, sift them over a tray. 2. Proceed using the same method until you finish all the in- gredients. Toast in the oven at a low temperature until they are slightly amber-colored Cook according to the recipe. • Malloreddus (gnocchetti) • 2 1/2 cups of fine durum wheat semolina •1 small portion of saffron •salt •a glass of water 1. Mix saffron and salt in the water. Place the semolina in a medium sized bowl, add the saf- fron water and start mixing the ingredients with a fork. When they are properly mixed, move the dough on a working surface (mar- ble, stainless steel or wood). Knead away just as if you were making bread ("bending" the dough in a half) until it is firm, smooth and homogeneous. If it is too sticky, add some semolina; if it is too dry, add some water. 2. Divide the dough in several section and form small rolls of about 1 cm in diameter (1/2 inch); slice them in smaller sections of just a little under 1 inch each. Roll the small dough cylinders on the back on a cheese grated, pressing them down gently with your fin- ger. This way, you'll obtain little gnocchi. Dust them with semolina flour and let them air dry. Cook them in boiling water, with only a little salt added (otherwise they'll melt!) and drain them with a colander while surface on the water. Dress them with tomato or meat sauce. For more sardinian recipes visit www.italoamericano.org

• Cover