L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 30, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano Cantina Filippi: not your average Soave W e are stan- ding in the gravel dri- veway of Cantina Fi- lippi, waiting for our tour to be- gin. The estate's proprietor Fi- lippo Filippi seems to materialize rather than arrive. A moment ago, he wasn't here. And now, he is. Dressed in black and grey, wea- ring longish salt n' pepper hair, beard, sunglasses, accompanied by a magnificent beast of a Ger- man Shepard dog. All in all, the scene conjures the impression of wizard, rebel winemaker, dog whisperer, all rolled into one very genial proprietor. The estate, Cantina Filippi, is located outside Verona in the hilly area lying just beyond Soave Classico DOC. A fact made both relevant and not rele- vant, I come to understand later, by the fact that Filippi is less con- cerned with making wines of "Soave-ness" than in producing wines which express the particu- lar characteristics of his land. In a zone where the unremarkable can be encountered without much searching, Filippi's wines speak with remarkably distinctive voi- ces sure to make you a believer in Cantina Filippi terroir. To appreciate anything of Cantina Filippi terroir, one should first be aware of the area's volcanic origins: volcanoes and sea beds whose successive erup- tions and sediments formed the volcanic limestone soils of Soave territory. Terroir at Cantina Fi- lippi is varied, including elements of basalt, limestone, sand and clay. In fact, if memory serves correct, the estate sits atop a ma- shup point where Soave soils shift from volcanic to limestone. Yet, geologic forces alone are not solely responsible for making happen the Cantina Filippi magic. One must also acknowledge the estate's old vine Garganega, Soa- ve's indigenous volcanic-loving grape vine and principal produc- tion grape at Cantina Filippi, as being wonderfully adept at tran- smitting the terrain's primordial beginnings. The location's high altitude, too, likely the highest in Soave, makes a contribution to what Cantina Filippi is able to put inside the bottle. None of this would matter much without Filippi's minima- list approach to winemaking al- lowing the wines to self-identify with the terrain. That approach begins with the estate adhering to biodynamic / organic farming principles, having earned organic certification back in 2007. Walking through the vineyard and woodland areas, one can't help but notice an assortment of critters, bee hives, etc., along the way, signs of lively, rich biodi- versity. Filippi's non-interventio- nist approach extends to the cel- lar, too, where fermentations are carried out using ambient yeasts. Sulphur levels in the wines are kept to minimal levels. And wi- nes see a good long time on the lees, each managed independen- tly. Cantina Filippi's cru-level parcels Castelcerino and Vigne della Bra are central to the esta- te's production. Smoky, elegant, and structured, with firm acidity, Cru Castelcerino wines reflect the strength of volcanic soil. The Castelcerino bottling is one of the estate's longest-lived Soave wines. The basalt-limestone soils of Cru Vigne della Bra give wi- nes that trade a bit of that volca- nic muscle for a dose of sophi- stication, distinguished by their sense of stoniness rather than Ca- stelcerino's smoke. Neither are Vigne della Bra wines afraid of cellar time: while visiting Can- tina Filippi, I tasted the Vigne della Bra 2004 vintage: fresh, magnificent, with notes of petrol such as one might find with aged Riesling. Both bottlings are made of 100% Garganega. In addition to Castelcerino and Vigne della Bra, you'll want to keep an eye open for Cantina Filippi's limited-production Monteseroni, a round and rich wine made from 100% Garga- nega sourced from the estate's warmest site of the same name; and for Turbiana, full of flavor and persistence, made of Treb- biano di Soave grown in the esta- te's highest vineyard, Turbiana. Collectively, Cantina Filippi wines impress with rich textures and supreme freshness, suppor- ted by acidity and tasty volcanic tang. These are deeply personal, original wines, raised to reflect a distinctive terroir rather than pledge allegiance to a generic Soave flag. Our tour now well underway, walking through the vineyards and woodlands of Cantina Fi- lippi, the seclusion and quiet be- gin to have a sedative effect. Physical movement seems to happen in slower motion. Filippi bends down to gather a handful of earth and stone, a modern-day druid collecting the magic of this place in his hands. The dog-beast stands motionless, but watchful, a gargoyle guard in protective mode. Filippi stands upright, the dog relaxes, and once again be- comes the fantastical animal. While we talk about volcanic soil and rock, one gets the feeling that whatever cosmic logic saw fit to create this territory from elemental fire, water, and earth, must surely have considered Fi- lippi an essential part of the package. Tasting Note Cantina Filippi Vigne della Bra Scents of wildflowers and herb, notes of nut and spice, and a smooth, sophisticated texture on the palate, propelled by a sense of stone and saline. Fini- shes with delicious volcanic tang. Cantina Filippi's wines are characteristic of an area of volcanic origins @ Cantina Filippi Filippo Filippi, proprietor of Cantina Filippi, poses in one of his vineyards @ Cantina Filippi JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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