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LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE P uglia needs no special introduction. Its sea, the baroque grandeur of Lecce, its olive oil and fresh cheeses: all in the region of Italy's "heel" calls for attention. Aficionados of the Middle Ages and mystery can explore Castel del Monte, while Gargano is perfect for sea holi- days lovers and Alberobello, with the whitewashed walls of its trul- li, brings to mind the magic of fantastic kingdoms, the Mediter- ranean version of a Harry Potter- esque village. This Summer, though, it's Bari's Summer, as the capital of the region has been voted top Italian destination for the hot months of 2019 by the popular tourist guide Lonely Planet. We may be running short of vacation days, in this late part of August, but the gentle Mediterranean cli- mate of the region means we are still well on time to enjoy explor- ing one of the most interesting cities in the Italian South. The reasons behind Lonely Planet's choice are many, but all underscored by the city's current cultural Renaissance: from its historical centre, to the artistic allure of its streets, all the way to its delicious cuisine, Bari is a place to be rediscovered. A far cry from the "industrial port" image many of us Italians tend to associate it with, Bari is, above all, its flat-roofed Città Vecchia, a maze of little streets and sandy walls developing around the Romanic majesty of San Nicola Basilica. This 12th century build- ing, dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra, is known for hosting the famous saint's relics — the figure of Santa Claus is based on him — and remains one of the most cher- ished places of Christian worship in Italy. Bari's Cathedral is, how- ever, dedicated to San Sabino: it, too, is nestled within the Città Vecchia, just like the 12th century Norman-Swabian castle, yet another medieval beauty in the city. The Città Vecchia has all the allure of Mediterranean Italy: it's ancient, artistic and filled with history. And it's permeated with the scents of the sea and tradition- al barese food. It's not uncom- mon, in certain areas of the old town, to come across elderly ladies gingerly making fresh pasta outside their homes to sell it directly to interested passersby. If you don't feel like cooking, then you could try one of the many tra- ditional restaurants and trattorias that dot the old town centre. Bari's cuisine, just like that of Puglia as a whole, is a typical example of cucina povera and it's characterized by the use of sim- ple, ready available ingredients, mixed together with creativity and, of course, a dash of extra vir- gin, local olive oil. Queen of Bari's culinary realm is the orec- chietta, the thick, rough-surfaced ear-like pasta shape, served often with sausage and cime di rapa (turnip greens), but absolutely delicious with pretty much any sauce. A lesser known traditional delicacy of Bari is riso, patate e cozze, a layered dish of rice, pota- toes and mussels. But if you want to experience Bari Vecchia in all its glory, if you want to enjoy the magic of its atmosphere while FRANCESCA BEZZONE THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano Continued to page 24 The neglected gem of Italy's heel: Bari Did: Bari's old town center is filled with history and charm (© Dreamstime)