L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2020 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano B ologna offers an e y e - c a t c h i n g cityscape with medieval towers, red-brick palazzi and nearly 25 miles of arcades. It's home to Europe's oldest uni- versity, founded in 1088, and the current student population, approaching 100,000, ensures a lively street scene, plenty of cafes, and a thriving arts commu- nity. Bologna is also famous for its culinary specialties. One of its signature dishes is tortellini, tiny delectable mouthfuls of meat- stuffed pasta, handmade by local sfogline or pasta shops. The larg- er versions — tortelli and tortel- loni – can be stuffed with squash or cheese. Bologna allows you to experi- ence life in a real Italian city, says Roberto Grandi, president of the Bologna museums organi- zation. "The city is full of music, museums and cultural activities," said Grandi. "We may not have the "must-see's" like Florence and Venice, but it's a place where people can feel history." Statistics validate the city's appeal: Visitorship has increased by 30 percent in the past four years. To keep tourism fresh, city officials are developing a series of self-guided walking tours that start in Bologna and allow visi- tors to immerse themselves in the region's history. One of these tours is the Path of Wool and Silk. People can trek for six days on a set route from Bologna to Prato, following in the footsteps of ancient merchants. Restaurant and hotel suggestions are provid- ed on a dedicated website. If you have less time to explore, here are some other ways to get off the beaten path. Above it all: Asinelli Tower (Torre degli Asinelli), built in the early 12 th century, provides a panoramic view of Bologna's red rooftops, but there's another way to see the city from on high. In 2015, as the renovation of the Basilica di San Petronio got underway, a temporary viewing terrace was constructed about 175 feet off the ground. From that vantage point, it's easy to see why Bologna is called La Rossa ("The Red City"). But beware: because the area is a construction site, you'll need to sign a waiver before taking the construction elevator to the top (you can also take the stairs). The entry fees support the cathedral's renova- tion and the site is staffed by vol- unteers. Look for the entrance around the back of the cathedral in Piazza Galvani. The terrace is only open during the warmer weather months; cost is 3 euros. Law and medicine: built in the 16 th century, the Archiginnasio of Bologna served as the seat of the universi- ty from 1563 to 1805 and is one of the most important buildings in Bologna today. Inside its walls are two fascinating rooms often skipped by tour groups. The first is the Anatomical Theatre, built in 1636. Used for anatomy lec- tures and human dissections, its walls showcase wooden sculp- tures of some of the most famous physicians of both ancient and medieval times. At one end of the room is an ornately carved chair where the professor would sit, surveying the medical proce- dures demonstrated on the dis- section table below. The chair is flanked by two wooden sculp- tures carved without skin to show off their musculature, known as "gli spellati" or the skinned ones. In the same building is the richly embellished Stabat Mater, a large room where Renaissance law students would convene to study. Decorated with emblems, crests and other carv- ings, it appears as though every square inch of its walls is cov- ered with heraldic symbols. The room is home to a large collec- tion of antique reference books arranged by subject matter, from geology to zoology. Today the Stabat Mater is used for events and conferences. Admission is 3 euros. History comes alive: located in Palazzo Pepoli, a beautiful Gothic-style building, this muse- um recounts the rich history of Bologna. Using innovative tech- nology and interactive tech- niques, visitors can stroll along a stretch of an ancient Roman road or see how water was once diverted through the city's exten- sive canal system. A new exhib- it, "When Bologna Trembles," examines the topic of earth- quakes, recounting the history and science of this natural phe- nomenon. The museum is at Via Castiglione 8; it's closed on Mondays. Hidden canals: in the 12th century, city engineers created a hydraulic system using locks, canals and underground pipes to distribute water to power the city's lucrative industries of silk weaving and leather tanning. Some 35 miles of canals eventu- ally crisscrossed the medieval city. The canals are still there, but most have been paved over to create roads and bridges. Luckily, there are a few spots where you can still catch a glimpse of what the extensive canal system must have looked like. One is at Via Piella 16 where a small window looks down upon the Canale delle Moline. The sparkling water and moss-covered walls below call to mind one of Bologna's famous neighbors to the north, Venice. Nearby, on Via Capo di Lucca, is a similar but less picturesque viewpoint, where the canal runs partially uncovered between buildings. Giorgio Morandi House: Giorgio Morandi is considered Italy's most famous 20 th century still-life artist known for his sub- tle palettes, small canvases and use of common everyday objects, such as jars, boxes and seashells, in his paintings. Born in Bologna in 1890, he moved to this house in 1933, sharing it with his three unmarried sisters until he died in 1964. In the museum, visitors can peer into the rooms where the artist lived and painted. His stu- dio, bedroom, even his walk-in closet where he stored his props, provide a window into the life of this solitary yet devoted artist. Morandi left behind an exten- sive body of work. In 2008, New York's Metropolitan Museum staged a retrospective that includ- ed nearly 100 still-life paintings and about a dozen landscapes. The Giorgio Morandi House, located at Via Fondazza 36, is only open a few hours a week. Check the schedule online. Admission is free. RITA CIPALLA Beautiful corners of Bologna, with its towers, portici and hidden alleys (Copyright: Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE Secret Bologna: five hidden gems in the historic old town

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