L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2020 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES FRANK FARIELLO T hese days, it's beco- me quite chic to claim one dish or another is an exam- ple of la cucina povera, or the cooking of the poor. But this one is the real deal. Cipollata Calabrese, brai- sed red onions in the Calabrian style, got its start as a meal for shepherds while they spent the day tending their flock. And the recipe is as simple and modest as it gets: just sliced red onions sautéed in olive oil and braised in water, then brigh- tened with—this is Calabria after all—a generous pinch of red pepper flakes. The cooked dish may not be much to look at, as the onion turns a rather dun color during its braise. But I can tell you what a cipollata lacks in the looks department it more than makes up for in taste. These days a cipollata might be served as a spicy side dish for roasted fish or meats, but you can also do like the shepherds and make a light lunch or supper out of it, served with a slice or two of chewy, crusty bread. You won't feel poor at all. Ingredients 1 kilo (2 lbs) red onions, pee- led and sliced Olive oil 300 ml (10 fl oz) water Salt A pinch of hot red pepper flakes, to taste For serving: Grilled or toasted bread Black olives (optional) Grated pecorino cheese (optional) If you want to dress up your cipollata (see Notes): Red wine and/or red wine vinegar Homemade meat or vegetable broth 2-3 plum tomatoes, fresh or canned, seeded and cut into stri- ps 1 green or red pepper, cored and cut into thin strips A few anchovies, to taste Directions Peel the onions, trim off their root ends, and cut them in half lengthwise. Remove the outmost layer if it looks tough or papery. Slice them lengthwise into thin strips. Warm a good pour of olive oil in a Dutch oven or terracotta casserole, then add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt. Let the onions sauté over moderate heat for about 5 minutes or so, until they have wilted and turned translucent. They should have reduced in volume by almost half. Pour in the water and bring the pot to a simmer. Cover and turn down the heat to low. Let the onions simmer, covered, for 30-45 minutes, or until they are very soft and translucent. Add water from time to time if the onions seems to be drying out. Sprinkle on the red pepper flakes, as much as you care for. Let everything simmer for a few more minutes, uncovered, before serving. The cipollata should be ser- ved quite wet, but not like a soup. Add more liquid if it looks too dry and, conversely, raise the heat to boil off any excess liquid. Garnish, if you like, with black olives and/or a good gra- ting of pecorino cheese, with grilled or toasted bread on the side. Notes on Cipollata Calabrese The obvious choice for this Calabrian speciality would be the famous cipolla di Tropea, the exquisitely sweet, oval shaped red onion from near the epony- mous village of Tropea. Possibly the most famous variety of red onion in the world, the Tropea onion has been culti- vated on the clay cliffs that descend from Mount Poro towards the Calabrian coast since ancient times for its exquisitely sweet, delicate flavor and suppo- sed health benefits. Pliny the Elder, in his Naturalis Historia, lists 30 ailments that can be trea- ted with the onion. Sadly, most of us don't have access to Tropea onions, so we'll have to make our cipollata with whatever variety of red onions we might find in the local market. If you can find them young and fresh, so much the better. Do try to find smaller ones if you can; they'll be swee- ter. Traditionally cipollata is ser- ved on top of the bread slices. Personally, however, I prefer to Cipollata Calabrese are braised onions enriched with extra virgin olive oil and, if you like it, some flakes of hot red pepper flakes (Copyright: Frank Fariello) Cipollata Calabrese (Calabr ian style braised red onions) Continued to page 28

• Cover