L'Italo-Americano

LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS DESIGN www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, AUGUST 20, 2020 L'Italo-Americano T here's something romantic about a t r a i n . T h e r e ' s something even m o r e r o m a n t i c about a train in Italy! Making your way through Italy with t h e c l i c k i t y - c l a c k o f r a i l s beneath you is a wonderful, freeing experience…IF you have done a little homework beforehand to prepare. W h e t h e r y o u r g o a l i s absorbing endless days of Renaissance art in Florence, lounging beachside along azure Ligurian waters, or n i b b l i n g C r u c o l o c h e e s e w h i l e h i k i n g t h e A l p i n e meadows of the Dolomites, travel using Italy's immense railway system is a conve- nient and relatively low-cost option to car rentals. And although it is possible, it's certainly a lot harder to get lost when going by train! Italy's railways lace the country together from north to south, east to west with a series of major and minor lines. Handy and generally dependable (sans random strikes), journeying from city to city while watching the Italian countryside fly by — or catching an overdue nap — c a n h a v e g r e a t a p p e a l , especially for those seeking multi-city itineraries. Italy's menu of trains You've made your plans – you're going by rail – bravis- simi! What to expect now… w h a t a r e t h e b a s i c s f o r a seamless trip on Italy's fer- rovie (railways)? Assuming most international travelers a r r i v e i n R o m e o r M i l a n , expediting a cross-country i t i n e r a r y h a s b e c o m e remarkably fast since the introduction of high-speed trains by Trenitalia, Italy's g o v e r n m e n t - o w n e d t r a i n operator. Known collectively as the Alta Velocità (AV), three high speed trains dom- inate Italy's main railways. The king of the trinity is the Frecciarossa (Red Arrow). Spiriting yourself in lighten- ing swift fashion anywhere a l o n g a T u r i n – M i l a n – Bologna – Rome – Naples – Salerno line can be accom- plished at speeds of 220 mph with the offerings of up to 72 daily connections. A day trip from Rome to have lunch in t h e s h a d o w o f M i l a n ' s Duomo is no longer a wistful dream. T h e F r e c c i a r g e n t o ( S i l v e r A r r o w ) a n d F r e c c i a b i a n c a ( W h i t e A r r o w ) , r e s p e c t i v e l y , z i p along at 155 mph and 125 m p h f o l l o w i n g R o m e – M i l a n t r a j e c t o r i e s , b u t branch off to smaller cities such as Venice, Bari/Lecce, Udine, and Genoa. The AV trains will tax your wallet a bit more than less speedy versions, but if quick and cushy travel is on your agen- da, they'll fit the bill. Access to smaller towns is not off-limits with train trav- el, by any means. Intercity trains offer hundreds of c o n n e c t i o n s t h r o u g h o u t Italy. Their top chugging speed of 100 mph might not be as swift as the AV lines, b u t t r a v e l i s b y r e s e r v e d seating, pricing is substan- tially cheaper, and you still avoid the white-knuckle per- ils of piloting a car. Your heart is set on snap- ping that holding-up-the- tower photo for your social media fans, yet neither the F r e c c e n o r I n t e r c i t y routes service Pisa…what to d o ? T h e w o r k h o r s e Regionale trains will get you there. Typically the least expensive, these trains often c e n t e r a r o u n d w o r k a n d school schedules and come to a squealing stop at every station between larger cities. A slightly better option for some itineraries is found with the Regionale Veloce routes. Although the name implies a faster train, a time- lier arrival is possible due to fewer stops along the way. For a few extra euros, a 1 st class option exists on the Veloce. It won't buy you a glass of bubbly, but it will guarantee you a precious reserved seat – something that can be a rarity with a 2 nd class ticket. Older cars, potential lack of a seat, roll- of-the-dice chances for air- c o n d i t i o n i n g , a n d o t h e r r e d u c e d p l e a s a n t r i e s c a n come with the ticket price (but not always); however, these trains do offer service to many smaller cities you'd otherwise be studying bus schedules to reach. Whose got a ticket to ride? You've chosen your route and carrier…time to buy tick- ets! For those who like to plan ahead, purchasing in advance online is available, as are comprehensive sched- ules. Trenitalia offers full availability online, as does ItaliaRail, a US-based com- pany directly partnered with T r e n i t a l i a . S o m e t r a v e l sites recommend this, and as long as you know precisely what day you want to travel, you might score some great discounts on a Frecce train. M y e x p e r i e n c e , h o w e v e r , would say stay flexible and purchase your tickets when you hit the station. Joining the queue at the ticket win- dow can be intimidating, but it's doable…step out of your comfort zone! Just be sure you know your destination station and type of train pre- ferred. For the do-it-your- selfer, a biglietto (ticket) can quickly be in hand with o n e o f t h e m a n y v e n d i n g machines found in stations. L a n g u a g e c h o i c e o p t i o n s makes it easy to follow the steps but be aware: they can get finicky with credit/debit cards, so have cash handy… AND never accept the "kind" help of someone insisting you need their help! Where's my train? The excitement builds – tickets are in hand – but how d o y o u f i n d y o u r t r a i n ? Italy's big city train stations are magnificent places…and can be dauntingly confusing! R u l e # 1 i s t o f i n d t h e scrolling electronic board that will list train numbers (check your ticket), as well as arrival and departure sched- ules (the orario), destina- tions, and which binario (platform) to scurry towards to catch your train. Smaller stations will have similar info posted in paper form – white for arrivals, yellow for depar- tures. Just be aware that the m a n y s t o p s m a d e b y Regionale trains won't be listed separately; know the f i n a l d e s t i n a t i o n o f t h a t train's run to save yourself a little panic when you don't see your destination listed. All aboard T h e s i l v e r d o o r s s l i d e open, departing passengers clear, and it's your turn to climb aboard and begin your journey. If you bought tickets online, all you'll need is to have a printout of your ticket or the QR code on your app ready. It's a different story with same-day purchased tickets – be sure to validate your ticket by slipping it into a handy green and white (or sometimes an older yellow) machine found on all plat- forms. The sound of "ker- c h u n k " a s i t s t a m p s y o u r ticket is the goal; you've just avoided a potential 200 euro fine and have a ticket that is g o o d f o r f o u r h o u r s . Handsomely uniformed con- ductors will ask to see your ticket…guaranteed! A f e w p r e c a u t i o n s a r e worthy of note with rail trav- el in Italy. Be alert for pick- pockets; refuse help from s m i l i n g b u t i n s i s t e n t s t r a n g e r s w h e n b u y i n g and/or validating tickets, or when carrying your luggage aboard; don't leave a purse in plain view if you choose to nap – all commonsense pre- cautions that can prevent a ruined day. Travel by rail in Italy is rife with positive benefits. A sense of connection to the daily life of Italians is found as you become a part of this very common mode of trans- portation. The opportunity t o m e e t a l o c a l , s h a r e a moment of life with someone you'd never have met other- wise, awaits. Slower trains open up the opportunity to take in the glorious sights of the Italian countryside pass- ing by, of glimpses into vil- lages, farms, and scattered ruins along the way, while fast trains can get you to your destination in record time. Day trips made easy by rail await your discovery. C l i m b a b o a r d a n d l e t t h e adventures begin! A train approaching Manarola, in Liguria (Photo: Iuliia Lavrinenko/Dreamstime) PAULA REYNOLDS All aboard! Italy by rail… it's easier than you think!

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