L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2020 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE T h e L a c r y m a C h r i s t i i s a w i n e f r o m t h e C a m p a n i a region of Italy p r o d u c e d i n t h e a r e a o f Mount Vesuvius. Indeed, it is also known as Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. It holds a D O C d e n o m i n a t i o n , w h i c h m e a n s o n l y w h e n produced in the Vesuvian areas, it can bear its beauti- ful name. Yes, its name. Latin for "Christ's tears," it is evocati- v e a n d m y s t e r i o u s a t t h e s a m e t i m e a n d , i n d e e d , legends about the origin of t h i s w i n e a r e l o s t i n t h e m i s t s o f t i m e a n d h a v e a m y s t i c a u r a a b o u t t h e m . And so, let us explore the f a s c i n a t i n g w o r l d o f C a m p a n i a ' s L a c r y m a Christi together: possibly, sipping a good glass of it. Ancient Romans already k n e w t h i s d e l i c i o u s , r i c h Vesuvian wine, which was made — then and today— with local grapes. Historians tell us that viticulture was a l r e a d y p r a c t i c e d i n t h e Torre del Greco area in t h e 5 t h c e n t u r y B C , b y T h e s s a l i a n c o l o n s f r o m G r e e c e : i t w a s t h e m w h o introduced the grape varie- tal still used today to make L a c r y m a C h r i s t i t o Campania. Indeed, before b e i n g a s p r e c i o u s a s t h e tears of Christ, it was known a s " t h e G r e e k w i n e . " However, the merit for such a d e l i c i o u s l i q u o r d i d n ' t b e l o n g o n l y t o c a p a b l e Thessalian farmers, but also to the dark, fertile volcanic land where it elegantly grew. Originally, then, Lacryma Christi was a nectar produ- c e d f o r t h e G r e e k g o d s , e m b r a c e d , e n j o y e d a n d beloved by the Romans in later decades. Yet, its name has clear Christian origins, and it shouldn't come as a surprise that it was a poet, A l f r e d d e M u s s e t , immense name of French literary Romanticism, who made the legend associated w i t h s u c h a l y r i c a l n a m e famous and that, later, even a multi-faceted figure like Curzio Malaparte (born Curt Erich Suckert) a writer, journalist, poet, essay wri- ter and even a secret agent, wrote fondly about it. T h e r e a r e , i n f a c t , t w o versions of the genesis of the Lacryma Christi name, both tied, of course, to the figure of the Christ. The first tells that Lucifer, before abandoning Heaven for good, stole a piece of it as a last sign of disrespect to G o d ; w h i l e d i s a p p e a r i n g into the dirty, dark entrails of Hell, he left behind a bot- t o m l e s s p i t , f r o m w h i c h Mount Vesuvius was born. When Christ saw the Gulf of N a p l e s , H e r e c o g n i z e Heaven in its beauty and wept countless tears, from which rich vineyards were born, the vineyards of the Lacryma Christi wine. A s e c o n d l e g e n d s a y s that, on day, Jesus traveled, under a false identity, to the home of a hermit who lived on Mount Vesuvius. Once there, he said he was thirsty a n d a s k e d f o r w a t e r : t h e hermit was so welcoming and nice, that Jesus turned the water in wine for him, c r e a t i n g t h e L a c r y m a Christi. Whether you like the first or the second version better, the secret of the Lacryma Christi wine was carefully k e p t b y t h e C a p u c h i n friars who settled in the old R o m a n c o l o n y o f T u r r i s Octava, which they rena- med Torre del Greco, that is, of the "Greek wine" pro- duced in such large quanti- ties there. Funnily enough, and in spite of its ancient origins, Lacryma Christi obtained its DOC denomination only i n 1 9 8 3 . A c c o r d i n g t o i t s regulations, it can be made o n l y w i t h g r a p e s c o m i n g from 15 towns and villages, all located at the feet of the Vesuvius: the communes of B o s c o t r e c a s e , S a n Sebastiano al Vesuvio, and parts of the communes of O t t a v i a n o , S a n G i u s e p p e V e s u v i a n o , T e r z i g n o , B o s c o r e a l e , T o r r e A n n u n z i a t a , T o r r e d e l G r e c o , E r c o l a n o , P o r t i c i , Cercola, Pollena Trocchia, Sant'Anastasia and Somma Vesuviana. Cultivars used f o r t h e p r o d u c t i o n o f t h e Lacryma Christi — which can be a red, white and rosé — a r e t h e C o d a d i V o l p e , V e r d e c a , F a l a n g h i n a a n d G r e c o f o r t h e w h i t e L a c r y m a C h r i s t i , w h i l e Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Aglianico are used for the red. Well, we spoke about its origins, where it is produced and which types of grapes can be used to make it, but what about its taste, why is it considered such an ama- zing wine, worthy of being m e n t i o n e d b y p o e t s a n d carrying the name of Christ? White Lacryma Christi has a hay-like color and an intense floral aroma remini- s c e n t , e x p e r t s s a y , o f Vesuvian broom, with hints of ripe fruits like pineapple a n d y e l l o w p e a c h . I t i s u s u a l l y s e r v e d w i t h l o c a l fish dishes like clams and m u s s e l s , z u p p a d i p e s c e , s e a b a s s a n d a s p a r a g u s risotto, vegetables and chee- ses. It is at its best when ser- ved cool. Red Lacryma C h r i s t i h a s t h e h u e s o f rubies and Vesuvius' lava and scents of red fruits. It is f u l l b o d i e d a n d c o m p l e x and, for this, it is perfect with rich, elaborate main dishes, meat sauces, game, l a s a g n a N a p o l e t a n a a n d red meat. Last, but not least, rosé Lacryma Christi has the same fruity aroma and com- plexity of the red, but it's easier to match with food. It's perfect with fish, but also with white meat, vege- tables and risotto. Foodies s a y i t ' s a m a z i n g w i t h moscardini in cherry toma- toes sauce. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Bottles of Lacryma Christi wine (Photo: Cenzo/Dreamstime) The day Christ wept and a beautiful wine was born: Naples' Lacryma Christi

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