L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 1, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano T w o h u n d r e d s a n d w i c h e s p r e p a r e d e v e r y day, using only h i g h q u a l i t y products from Italy. Among t h e s e , t h e r e i s a l s o t h e Portofino sandwich — actress and regular customer Jessi- ca Lange's favorite — made with prosciutto cotto, fontina cheese and fig jam. La Panineria Italiana in New York, founded by the young Mario Pesce, has become a hot spot not only for celebrities passionate about Italian food, but also for Italians who've been liv- ing in the US for years and here can find the flavors, aro- mas and hospitality of their home. Located in the heart of G r e e n w i c h V i l l a g e , L a P a n i n e r i a h a s b e c o m e s o iconic in New York that it is mentioned in the book China Rich Girlfriend, sequel to the famous global best-seller and movie Crazy Rich Asians, and appeared on the Netflix TV show Master of None. La Panineria is Mario's dream come true; a native of Torre del Greco who's lived in New York for the past ten y e a r s , M a r i o h a d h i s epiphany on a sunny spring afternoon. "I was enjoying a walk in Hudson River Park, eating a sandwich made by me, consisting of baguette, robiola and arugula. While I was savoring it, I realized how simple, but at the same time, how good it was, " the 32-year-old young man tells m e . P e s c e s e t t l e d i n N e w York after a few years spent between Italy and the US, ready to entrust his dream to the Big Apple. "I've had a lot of jobs but I've always want- ed to open my own place. T h e d a y I r e a l i z e d t h a t nobody in New York made s a n d w i c h e s l i k e w e d o i n Italy, I got on top of it and my project became a reality in 2014." S e v e n y e a r s l a t e r , t h e sandwich Mario prepared for himself is part of an exten- sive menu, completed by hot dishes such as lasagna, egg- plant parmigiana and various types of pasta. A business that hasn't felt the bite of the pandemic. "During the lock- down, I was asked to take up another place, three times the size of the old location and where we are also push- ing the wine bar. The goal is orders an 80 dollar sandwich with ham, mortadella, sala- mi, bresaola, mozzarella, fontina cheese, provolone, tuna, truffle oil, vinegar, fig jam and tomatoes! I must admit that I would never eat that! How did New Yorkers r e a c t t o y o u r p r o d u c t over the years? Initially, they struggled to accept a product that was a simple sandwich. But day by day they came and discov- ered that the bread was spec- t a c u l a r a n d t h e p r o d u c t s delicious. It took me some time, but I managed to instill this culture of healthy and balanced eating. Most of my clients come to eat four to five times a week. D o y o u a l s o h a v e celebrities among your customers? Fortunately, the area we a r e i n i s b e a u t i f u l , n e a r Washington Square. Many famous people, many VIPs, live around here. However, the very first VIP coming here was, paradoxically, an Italian, Jovanotti. Before m o v i n g t o L o s A n g e l e s , Mark Ruffalo often came with his daughter Bella. But we also have regular cus- tomers like Leonardo Di Caprio, Jessica Lange, who lives across the restau- rant, Steve Buscemi, who c o m e s w i t h h i s w i f e a n d Uma Thurman, who came l a s t t i m e w i t h R o b e r t D e Niro's cousin. With Jessica L a n g e w e a r e f r i e n d s , w e always have a chat. What do you think is your forte? U n d o u b t e d l y , t h e h i g h quality products. We have a partnership with Rovagnati for cold cuts, with Partanna for Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. Then there is Varvello from Torino, producers of vinegar and derivatives and R e g a , w h o a r e f r o m Campania and sell organic t o m a t o e s . A n d t h e r e i s T a r t u f o l a n g h e , a l s o f r o m Torino. These are the five companies with which we not only collaborate but also share the project, my vision, which is to grow and expand. I s t h e W e s t C o a s t included in the project to expand? to expand more and more." Mario, do you follow Italian recipes on your menu or have you adapt- e d t o t h e t a s t e s o f Americans? The sandwiches are all made with a meat, a cheese, oil and sometimes fig jam to give a gourmet touch. For a long time I did not accept changes. Then, gradually, more and more people would ask to add something, more meats for example. At first I said no, then in the end I decided to Americanize the menu more and I created the S u p e r M a r i o , a s a n d w i c h made with ham, salami, mor- tadella and mozzarella. And now that's what we sell the most. Is there anything you just don't compromise on? I would never sell some- t h i n g t h a t I p e r s o n a l l y wouldn't eat. However, in home deliveries I leave the possibility to create the sand- w i c h a s d e s i r e d . F u n n y enough, I have a regular cus- tomer who practically puts everything on the menu and Yes, let's say the idea is there. Initially we wanted to keep the location small and, eventually, take up other small locations and use the same concept. Then I had t h i s p r o p o s a l d u r i n g t h e lockdown and now we are bigger. I never want to step bigger than my leg, I have to be sure about what I do. But I l o v e L o s A n g e l e s a n d I would move there tomorrow, s o s o o n e r o r l a t e r I ' l l d o something there. What is your relation- ship with New York? It is a relationship of love and hate because the city gives you a lot from all points of view, opens your mind, makes you understand you c a n g e t t o k n o w c u l t u r e s from all over the world. At the same time, it takes a lot out of you, especially at the beginning, and if you don't find a balance between work and social life, you end up working continuously and going crazy. W h a t w a s t h e b e s t compliment you received from a customer? T h e I t a l i a n s w h o h a v e been here for more than 30 years, who tell me "I've never e a t e n a s a n d w i c h t h a t r e m i n d s m e s o m u c h o f Italy." And it's not just a mat- ter of food but also of the atmosphere; we are like fam- i l y a n d w h e n c u s t o m e r s come, especially those who have lived in America for many years and have lost the sense of Italianness, they stay here for two or three hours, and they start talking to us. A lady got tears and told us: "I feel at home." Which sandwich rep- resents you the most? I would say Paestum, with 16 months Parma ham, extra virgin olive oil and mozzarel- la. I grew up spending my summer holiday at my beach house in Paestum, a place I love, and I wanted to dedi- cate one of our best sand- wiches to it. What does Paestum, i t s f l a v o r s , m e a n f o r you? I t ' s n o t j u s t f l a v o r s . I t reminds me of the lightheart- e d n e s s o f t h e s u m m e r s I spent there. I have a very large family, and we all meet there in August. I also see friends that I may not have seen for years and it is as if I h a d l e f t t h e d a y b e f o r e . Paestum is memories of fam- ily, friendship and the light- heartedness I feel when I am in Italy. SILVIA GIUDICI Mario Pesce, founder of La Panineria Italiana, in New York (Photo: Kingspin Show) La Panineria, Italian flavors that conquered NY LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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