L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 14, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano F a l l i s m a g n - i f i c e n t i n Umbria. Wisps of morning mist e n v e l o p e t h e fields like a veil. Later in the day, the sun is mellow, the light is golden, the leaves on t h e t r e e s a r a i n b o w o f orange and reds. This is a time to gather on a terrace with friends, s h a r i n g g l a s s e s o f w i n e , c h u n k s o f p e c o r i n o , t e l l stories and dreams while basking in the almost unreal sunsets. It's the time to go to a favorite rustic trattoria and enjoy the bounty of fall f o r d i n n e r : t r u f f l e s , m u s h r o o m s , s u c c u l e n t p e a r s , c h e s t n u t s , persimmons. In Italy, game i s a d e l i c a c y w h i c h i s appreciated since medieval times and it's not unusual to find pigeon, phaesant, duck or wild boar on offer paired with our robust red wines. I n U m b r i a , d u c k i t i s LETIZIA MATTIACCI generally roasted whole or used for a ragù. In contrast, f e w h o m e c o o k s w o u l d c o n s i d e r p r e p a r i n g d u c k b r e a s t a t h o m e . I n m y o p i n i o n h o w e v e r , i t ' s surprisingly quick easy to make. This is my foolproof recipe inspired by a classic F r e n c h s w e e t a n d s o u r m a r i n a d e w h i c h I h a v e m o d i f i e d w i t h I t a l i a n ingredients and herbs. Ingredients For the duck: O n e 1 / 2 k g ( 1 l b ) d u c k breast with the skin left on 1 - 2 s p r i g s o f f r e s h rosemary 2 l a r g e g a r l i c c l o v e s , crushed For the marinade: Juice of 1/2 lemon or of 1 orange 3 t a b l e s p o o n b a l s a m i c vinegar 2 tablespoon red wine 1 tablespoon raw honey 3 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil In a bowl large enough to fit the breast snugly, mix the marinade ingredients, add t h e g a r l i c c l o v e s a n d t h e rosemary sprigs. Place the d u c k b r e a s t i n t h e m a r i n a d e , s k i n s i d e u p , c o v e r a n d k e e p i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . R e m o v e t h e d u c k b r e a s t from the marinade, pat dry a n d s c o r e t h e s k i n i n t o a criss-cross pattern using a sharp knife. Transfer the breast, skin side down, into a preheated very heavy cast- i r o n p a n . R e s e r v e t h e marinade. Cook the breast on a low heat for at least 5 minutes. Be patient as the duck fat renders out slowly, melting onto the bottom of the pan. This is the most important phase of the cooking, by which you get that lovely crispy skin. If the skin burns t o o s o o n , t h e b r e a s t w i l l taste fatty and rubbery. W h e n t h e s k i n t u r n s golden, remove the breast to a plate, quickly remove the melted fat and wipe the pan w i t h k i t c h e n p a p e r . N o w you need to be quick. Turn the heat up to high, add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sear the skinless side of the breast all over until slightly brown, this will take about 2 minutes. Pour the marinade into the pan and reduce. It will take less than 1/2 minute if your heat is as fierce as it should be. Remove the pan from the h e a t b u t l e a v e i t o n t h e stove, cover with a lid and 1 or 2 folded kitchen towels. You want to keep the pan as w a r m a s p o s s i b l e . T h e breast will finish cooking with the indirect heat of the p a n a n d w i l l k e e p wonderfully moist. Leave for 5- 10 minutes, then slice thinly and serve. C o o k i n g t i m e s m i g h t change depending on the s i z e a n d t h i c k n e s s o f t h e b r e a s t , p l e a s e a d j u s t accordingly. O n e b r e a s t s e r v e s 4 m o d e s t m e a t e a t e r s . Feel free to double the portions if you expect guests with a big appetite. L e t i z i a M a t t i a c c i i s a cookbook author and owner of Alla Madonna del Piatto C o o k i n g S c h o o l a n d A g r i t u r i s m o i n A s s i s i , U m b r i a , h t t p s : / / i n c a m p a g n a . c o m . T h i s recipe has been previously published in Mrs. Mattiacci c o o k b o o k e n t i t l e d " A Kitchen with a view." Rosemary balsamic duck breast ready to be enjoyed! (Photo courtesy of Letizia Mattiacci) Let's try something out of the ordinary! Rosemary balsamic duck breast LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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