L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano I t's quite easy to toss a r o u n d t h e t e r m " m a g i c a l " w h e n referring to Italy's v a s t n u m b e r o f charming, romantic villages. S o m e , h o w e v e r , w e a r t h e title a bit more earnestly than others. The tiny Umbrian borgo o f R a s i g l i a i s o n e s u c h place. This hamlet has occu- p i e d i t s A l p i n e - e s q u e Apennine foothill strong- hold since the 13 th century. Rasiglia found life serving as a logistical waypoint on the V i a d e l l a S p i n a , a m a j o r thoroughfare from Rome to the Adriatic, followed by an industrial rebirth a couple of c e n t u r i e s l a t e r a f t e r t h e roadway lost importance. We'll explore a bit of her col- orful history, but first…the magic. Upon arrival by car (the only means of reaching this remote location), the first impression can be a little disappointing. Parking is found along a dirt road that hugs the rushing stream, its endpoint a large, open field. It's a short distance back to the village; the walk is pleas- ant. Pristine waters of the Capovena stream guide you towards the village, burbling cheerfully as towering trees offer shade and a roost for chattering birds. If the sea- son is right, you'll pass by overstuffed bags of glorious- ly red potatoes, the pride of area farmers, priced to sell. The unimpressive entrances a t t h e v i l l a g e w a l l m i g h t s e e m a l i t t l e p u z z l i n g , understated. Yet like Alice's rabbit hole, the magic that awaits is just beyond view. The real beauty of this s p e c i a l p l a c e b e g i n s t o emerge as you wind through her narrow pathways. The s o u n d o f g u r g l i n g w a t e r g r e e t s y o u r e a r s , a s w e e t a p p e t i z e r t o t h a t f i r s t glimpse of one of the many waterways, pools, and small waterfalls that weave them- selves like a liquid tapestry through Rasiglia. A network o f u n d e r g r o u n d s p r i n g s feeding the Menotre River p r o v i d e s t h i s u n e n d i n g source of cold, immaculately clear mountain water – the l i f e b l o o d o f t h e v i l l a g e . S m a l l f o o t b r i d g e s , b o t h w o o d e n a n d s t o n e , r e a c h across emerald-hued mossy canals, the rushing water s e n d i n g c o o l i n g b r e e z e s aloft. Stone buildings are tucked in and amongst the network of streams, locks, and pools, somehow placed in a postcard-perfect imper- fect jumble. Sunlight and c l o u d s t a k e t u r n s a d d i n g and subtracting reflections of light and shadow creating breathtaking scenes in every d i r e c t i o n . C e r t a i n l y , t h i s must be the place the faeries and gnomes call home, its enchantment almost surreal. There is purpose, though, to this magical outlay that appears more the result of a magician's wand than inge- nious engineering and tam- ing of natural resources. As mentioned earlier, Rasiglia's beginnings date back to its strategic importance as a s t o p a l o n g t h e V i a d e l l a S p i n a . T h e r u l i n g T r i n c i family (1305 -1439) left their mark on Rasiglia during this t i m e , a s w e l l . T h i s n o b l e family aligned itself with the H o l y R o m a n E m p i r e a n d were granted rule over the city of Foligno and the sur- rounding region, including Rasiglia. Partly for defense purposes and partly to enjoy the beauty of the area, the family built a fortified castle upon the hill that cradles the village. The ruins of the cas- tle are still there, although one must use a good bit of imagination to appreciate them. A hike up is worth the effort, though, especially for the view from the remains of the watchtower. Trinci rule ended when Corrado Trinci III decided he would break completely from Papal rule. Rome car- ried a lot more muscle than Corrado's small parcel of power; it wasn't long before F o l i g n o w a s a s s a i l e d a n d a b s o r b e d i n t o t h e P a p a l S t a t e s . T r i n c i i n f l u e n c e n e v e r q u i t e l e f t R a s i g l i a , h o w e v e r , a s t h e f a m i l y became integral in assisting with the village's recreation. W i t h i t s a b u n d a n c e o f f r e s h w a t e r , R a s i g l i a emerged as a rural industri- a l c e n t e r d u r i n g t h e 1 6 t h century. The steady supply of water-fueled power was corralled by a network of manmade canals, locks, and waterways. As one would e x p e c t , m i l l i n g b e c a m e a m a j o r c o m m o d i t y . G r a i n mills, wool dying facilities, and "fulling" mills featuring water-powered machinery t o c l e a n a n d f e l t w o o l sprung up giving the village new purpose and life. As the centuries passed, textiles became the predom- inant trade in Rasiglia, a trend lasting into the 1960s. In recent years, the old mill house and other significant buildings have been restored and repurposed to support Rasiglia's third re-invention as a tourist destination. One can set foot inside the main mill, as well as the dying and washing houses where you m i g h t e n c o u n t e r a l o c a l scrubbing off the day's dirt f r o m a w o v e n d o o r m a t . W e a v i n g s t i l l t a k e s p l a c e here, but in small quantity a n d m o r e a s h e i r l o o m preservation. Enlargements of old photos celebrating the village's textile history are strategically placed, each black and white image act- ing as a mirror to the past. Don't come to Rasiglia if you're seeking perfection or slick tourist offerings. The town is home to about 45 inhabitants, hardy people who are proud of their lega- cy and are doing their best to preserve it. Part of the charm, the quaint appeal, is the imperfection found here. T h e w o o d e n b r i d g e s a n d b e n c h e s d o n ' t h i d e t h e i r wear and age, the walkways are fringed by healthy grass- e s a n d n a t u r a l p l a n t s ; a manicured look would just not fit. Its beauty is of the best kind, though…a meld- i n g o f n a t u r e a n d m a n ' s innovations working in har- mony. Creature comforts cer - tainly aren't lacking, howev- er. A handful of cafes and a bar or two offer the best of local food and drink. While no hotels are located here, it appears several old homes h a v e b e e n c o n v e r t e d t o b&bs. And of course, there are enough shops offering local textiles and remem- brances to satisfy that need. Perhaps my favorite expe- rience in Rasiglia was prac- t i c i n g t h a t c h a l l e n g i n g n o t i o n o f " l i v i n g i n t h e m o m e n t " . F i n d a b e n c h , sit…listen to the harmony of the water dancing and bur- bling over stones and moss; marvel at the birds flitting from tree branch to stream to steal a cool drink; admire the array of vibrant flowers lovingly tended by home- owners; strike up a conver- sation with a shopkeeper; d i p y o u r f i n g e r s i n t o t h e cool spring waters and dab your face. There is magic here – make some of it your own. "I find myself alone in this Alpine spot at the foot o f a h o l y a n d g l o r i o u s mountain, where a source w i t h w h i s p e r i n g w a t e r s arises among alive stones… " - Marco from Rasiglia, poet Fairytale spots in Rasiglia and an old fashioned weaving loom, symbol of the textile heritage of the village (Photos, from left clockwise: Shiva Kesch/Dreamstime; Aldo Starace/Dreamstime; Massimo Scacco/Dreamstime) Rasiglia – Umbria's magical village of streams PAULA REYNOLDS ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

• Cover