L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, MARCH 24, 2022 L'Italo-Americano N o one comes to central Puglia in search of g r a n d i o s e c a t h e d r a l s , nor expects to find troves of precious art or opulent con- cert halls. Valle d'Itria, the Puglian region located right about where the heel begins, is instead a timeless land punctuated by massive olive trees, endless stone walls, and rolling hills. Known for its famed trulli, those whim- sical cone-shaped buildings that appear transported straight from a fairy tale, the region has quietly found its place as a tourist destination perhaps later than the rest of Italy. And for this, the magic is perchance even more mag- ical – something the rich, red soil has known forever: there's something special about this place and her in- habitants. Amidst the fertile fields n u r t u r i n g o l i v e g r o v e s , w h e a t , a n d o r c h a r d s , a number of notable towns rise up over the unique karst (limestone pocketed) terra. There's the over-touristed A l b e r o b e l l o a n d h e r adorable trulli laden streets, the "white city" of Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica - one of Italy's oldest settlements, and other charming white- w a s h e d v i l l a g e s s u c h a s C i s t e r n i n o a n d Locorotondo. The vibe of t h e s e p l a c e s i s u n i q u e , something that feels older and wiser than regions fur- t h e r n o r t h . M u c h o f t h e architecture reminds easily of coastal Greece, and even the Middle East. Block style b u i l d i n g s d o m i n a t e w i t h o c c a s i o n a l d o m e s r i s i n g h e r e a n d t h e r e , m a n y reflecting the fierce sun with their whitewashed facades. Trulli are found in abun- d a n c e t h r o u g h o u t t h e region, often restored, yet m a n y r e m a i n c r u m b l i n g piles of stone that tell of a different time. A little research reveals substantiating evidence for that aforementioned old- soul vibe of this land and many of her unique charac- teristics. Rewind to the 8 th century BC, the time of the Messapi – an ancient civi- lization that laid the foun- dation for this special part of Italy. It's fairly common knowl- edge that ancient southern Italy and the Roman culture that followed were heavily influenced by the preceding Greek colonization. In fact, S i c i l y a n d s o u t h e r n I t a l y w e r e k n o w n a s M a g n a Grecia -- Greater Greece. What is less known, howev- er, is that until the Roman E m p i r e c o l o n i z e d I t a l y , multitudes of tribes dwelled independently throughout the peninsula. While many t r i b a l e n t i t i e s a n d t h e i r influences have faded into time, others hang on, their contributions still vital even if unrecognized. The Messapians qualify for such a description. Prior to my introduction to Puglia and the Valle d'Itria, I had n o f a m i l i a r i t y w i t h t h e region nor its history. There was a stark difference here. T h e a r c h i t e c t u r e , p l a c e names, customs, supersti- tions, the land itself – it was all so unique. My interest was piqued. A l t h o u g h i t ' s d e b a t e d a m o n g s t s c h o l a r s , i t ' s believed the Messapi tribe m i g r a t e d a r o u n d t h e 8 t h century BC from the area encompassing modern day A l b a n i a , t h e n k n o w n a s I l l y r i a . I n f a c t , t h e n a m e Messapia, a place name still found throughout the region meaning "land between the s e a s , " d e r i v e s f r o m t h e Messapian language and is closely related to Albanian. The tribe was highly inde- pendent and quite skilled in agriculture, building with stone, road making, horse- manship, and pottery. Their ability to grow quality wheat led to a large trade economy w i t h G r e e c e . I n e s s e n c e , they did very well in this warm, humid land of south- ern Italy. Like all stories of c i v i l i z a t i o n s p a s t , t h e M e s s a p i w e r e e v e n t u a l l y overtaken. As the Roman E m p i r e s p r e a d , t h e Messapian culture was con- q u e r e d i n 2 7 2 B C a n d assimilated. We can't say, however, that Messapian influence f a d e d i n t o n o t h i n g m o r e than a mention in history b o o k s . T h e i r f o o t p r i n t remains today, a fascinating backstory to the charm and intrigue of this area. One of the most notable is the lega- cy of the Valle d'Itria's mag- nificent olive trees. Many tower taller than a live oak, growing gnarled like a wiz- ard's beard. These giants produce the famed peppery oil that provides up to 45% of Italy's overall production, as well as an endless natural s c u l p t u r e g a l l e r y f o r t h e passersby. It's believed that the Messapi can be credited with the art of grafting wild Mediterranean olive trees with the European variety – the result being the cultivat- ed trees still seen today. It's notable that not all of this a r e a ' s o l i v e g r o v e s s t a n d spaced soldier-like row after row as this method was not introduced until the Roman era. Interesting, too, is the clockwise rotational growth pattern of these trees. Every specimen spirals in the same direction as if under some sort of spell; however, stud- i e s c o n c l u d e d t h e s e s l o w growing beauties rotate in tune with the earth's rota- tion…a transfixed example of the Coriolis Force that causes fluids to rotate clock- wise. And yes…similar olive t r e e s i n t h e S o u t h e r n Hemisphere show counter- clockwise growth patterns! The Messapian talent for planting crops and raising livestock set the stage for w h a t c o n t i n u e s t o b e a healthy agricultural pocket within Puglia, despite the heat and often dry condi- tions. Farmers will tell you it's the limestone layer rest- ing beneath the rocky soil, a sponge of sorts that latches o n t o r a i n a n d s l o w s i t s descent. Messapian families f o r g e d h i g h l y s u c c e s s f u l w h e a t c r o p s , m u c h o f i t exported, just as Puglians continue to do today. Sheep p r o v i d e d m i l k f o r c h e e s e a n d m e a t , a n i n d u s t r y strong and vibrant still. The old sheep trails called trat- turelli still wind along pre- c i s e l y b u i l t s t o n e w a l l s guarding ruddy fields and r o c k - s t r e w n p a s t u r e s . Almond orchards are plenti- ful. Whether the Greek or the Messapi first brought the fruit to Italian soil is uncertain; regardless, the f a m e d n u t s f l o u r i s h h e r e m a k i n g I t a l y t h e w o r l d ' s third largest producer. You can also credit the Messapi for the pleasures of sipping a n i c e P u g l i a n p r i m i t i v o wine. It's a scholarly tangle, b u t m o s t a g r e e t h a t t h e p r i m i t i v o g r a p e w a s f i r s t introduced to this region by the Messapian tribe – a for- t u n a t e t h i n g , i n d e e d ! Ancient architecture that post-dates the tribe's exis- tence reminisces of these people through the many masserie found through- out the area. Standing like stone forts, these imposing farmhouse complexes still d o t t h e l a n d s c a p e w i t h many now converted to lux- ury vacation dwellings. How their name came to reflect the Messapi, however, is a fact yet to be uncovered! So much of what we think of as ancient Roman influ- ence, especially in southern Italy, is more so an amal- g a m o f t h e b e s t o f m a n y tribes, the Messapi being one of these. Like the grand old olive trees that call the V a l l e d ' I t r i a h o m e , a n unspoken undergirding to c e n t r a l P u g l i a ' s c h a r m s r e m a i n s e t h e r e a l l y Messapian. Re-imagined ancient fighting between Romans and Messapi (Photo: Massimo Todaro/Shutterstock) The Messapi: the ancient pioneers of Puglia's Valle d'Itria PAULA REYNOLDS LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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