L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano I t ' s h a r d t o f i n d a place not to like in Tuscany, an Italian region rich in food, w i n e , c u l t u r e , a n d picture-perfect landscapes. A r e g i o n r e m i n i s c e n t o f a m o s a i c , h e r s m a l l b o r g o s and villages coalesce as ele- ments of a stunning big pic- ture yet can be easily over- looked as distinct players. But if we take time to peer c l o s e l y , t h e s e d i m i n u t i v e p a r t s b e c o m e , a s w i t h a mosaic, individual treasures — unique and one-of-a-kind, w a i t i n g t o s h a r e t h e i r secrets. Santa Fiora is one such village. Never heard of it, you say? Neither had I until quite recently. After seeking the fall delicacies of a certain trattoria in Piancastagnaio, it was time to wander off a resplendent lunch. Before departing, however, I was advised to visit the nearby town of Santa Fiora. Thank you, I'll consider that. While on my post-meal passeggia- ta, a brief chat with a kindly older woman brought the same advice, passionately offered. Sometimes we best pay attention: the path was set. An ancient hilltop town strategically placed on the lower slopes of Monte Amia- ta, Santa Fiora lies about 68 miles southeast of Florence. L u s h w i t h s u r r o u n d i n g forests, mossy-covered trails, and gorgeous views over- looking the Fiora River val- ley, the village credits much of her natural beauty to the healthy springs that arise here, burbling and feeding i n t o t h e r i v e r . I t ' s t h e s e springs that also make possi- ble one of Santa Fiora's best a s s e t s – t h e m e d i e v a l peschiera (man-made fish- pond). While the springs have surged since time immemor- ial, they weren't harnessed for purpose until sometime in the 13th or 14th century. Liturgical periods of fasting required the consumption of fish, so the creation of an inland fish farm solved the problem nicely for the then- ruling Aldobrandeschi fami- l y . I n t e r e s t i n g e v i d e n c e found within the adjacent Chiesa della Madonna della Neve, nicknamed the "church of the pool," reveals additional antiquated uses of the fresh flowing waters. T h e p e r i m e t e r o f t h e p e s c h i e r a , n o w o f f i c i a l l y k n o w n a s t h e S f o r z a Peschiera, is defined by a regal stone wall, its lower border crowned with two entwined dolphins uplifting P o s e i d o n ' s t r i d e n t . T h i s ancient pagan symbol for water stands watch over a gushing cascade that tum- b l e s i n t o t h e s m a l l p o n d below, whose purpose was once a watering place for animals as well as a wash basin. Following the wall t o w a r d s t h e p e s c h i e r a entrance sits the unassum- ing Chiesa della Madon- n a d e l l a N e v e . U p o n entering, it's immediately obvious this is no ordinary p l a c e o f w o r s h i p – i t ' s i n effect a glass-bottom boat w i t h i n a 1 5 t h - c e n t u r y church. Local lore says that many centuries ago, a small r o a d s i d e s t a t u e o f t h e M a d o n n a a n d C h i l d w a s placed here. Townspeople began receiving blessings and favors; the Madonna was smiling on Santa Fiora. Declaring this a miracle, the noble Sforza family, along with nearby clergy, raised funds to build the church. It would require rerouting the stream that flowed from the springs, a waterway utilized by local artisans to make their wares. A series of chan- nels were devised to divert the flow, and the church was built directly on the roadway and over the newly created channels. The church's well- designed modern glass floors m a k e i t e a s y t o s e e t h e stones beneath that were once the ancient roadway, as well as get a glimpse of the still-faithful channels. You might even spy a trout or two giving you the once-over from below! F o r a m e r e o n e e u r o placed in an unmanned lock- box, the peschiera and its p a r k a r e y o u r s . T h e a g e d stone walls embracing the p o n d k e e p w a t c h o v e r a screensaver-worthy scene. Emerald green water is the stage, its players occasional ducks, wistful cattails, and periodic ripples as fish break from their aquatic realm for a glimpse of life above water. Closer inspection reveals an underwater carpet of vibrant plant life, the backdrop to the thriving population of bragging rights sized trout. If you think some are following you along the wall, you are right; lumbering along, they hope you'll be the next to toss the food available in a bubblegum-style vending machine. An ancient breed, t h e s e t r o u t w e r e c l o s e t o extinction before successful efforts to propagate them in the waters of the peschiera. Reflections of the surround- ing stone buildings and tow- ering trees on the tranquil waters create the feel of hav- ing stepped into an impres- sionist's finest canvas. It m a d e m e w o n d e r – h a d Monet been here, too? By 1575, Santa Fiora (by way of a convenient mar- r i a g e ) h a d c o m e u n d e r S f o r z a r u l e , w i t h G u i d o S f o r z a ' s b l o o d l i n e t o t h e P o p e p a v i n g t h e w a y f o r wealth and growth. Under their rule, the peschiera was refurbished and became the family's private gardens. It was the town's loss at the time, but it's all gains for us t o d a y . I n t e r e s t i n g l y , t h e Sforza family still holds a presence in Santa Fiora, liv- ing peacefully on the upper floors of the original palace in the town's main piazza. The gardens are equiva- lent in picture-perfectness to the peschiera. Shaded by massive chestnut, pines, oak, and cedar, the cool pathways beg to be lingered on. Slow- paced is the key; numerous tiny flowering plants, moss- es, mushrooms, and perhaps a fairy or two will be missed if in too much of a hurry. In warmer months, a small bar and various seating areas tucked between tree roots and fern walls offer refresh- ment, and if you're lucky, you might catch an outdoor concert at the adjacent stage just off the park's boundary. A few pleasant hours at the peschiera are highly rec- ommended, but there's yet more to experience in lovely little Santa Fiora. Once a vital cinnabar mining dis- trict, the rich history of the minatori (miners) is told in the Museum of Mercury Mines. Several small but resplendent churches grace S a n t a F i o r a , a s w e l l . T h e Pieve delle Sante Flora e Lucilla is austere from the front, but upon entry one is treated to an impressive col- lection of large Della Robbia altarpieces – those exquisite 3-D terracotta works featur- i n g r i c h j e w e l t o n e s a n d alluring detail. It's said that this collection is one of the largest in Italy. After all that walking, you'll be ready to cap the day with an aperitivo in Piazza San Michele in the shadow of the Sforza palace and the ancient Aldobran- deschi clock tower…whose o r i g i n a l c l o c k s t i l l k e e p s proper time. As one of Italy's revered Borghi più Belli d'Italia (Italy's Most Beautiful Bor- g o s ) d e s t i n a t i o n s , S a n t a Fiora merits her nickname as the water town with one of the most beautiful natural environments in the country. Her Sforza Peschiera may not feed mouths these days, but oh does it feed the soul. Santa Fiora, Tuscany's Water Town – there's something fishy going on PAULA REYNOLDS Santa Fiora is a quaint hamlet in the Grosseto province of Tuscany (Photo: Georgiakari/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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