L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano T he mere mention o f p i s t a c h i o s evokes a variety of visions. Cooks u s e t h e m i n almost anything and every- thing. Sports fans consider them a perfect snack while watching a ballgame on TV. Nutritionists say they are abundant in vitamins. In the kitchen, the broad appeal of these tasty nuts offers infinite possibilities. They are common ingredi- ents in terrines, pilafs and baked goods. Chopped pista- chios show up as crusts for fish, fowl and in salads. They also enhance panna cotta, creme brulée and gelato, and add crunch to pastas and a finishing touch to fruit tarts and puddings. History traces pistachios a s f a r b a c k a s 7 , 0 0 0 B C , crediting Roman Emperor Vitellius with introducing them to Europe in 50 AD. T h e a n c i e n t G r e e k s u s e d them for medicinal reasons. In modern times, the cos- metic industry has discov- ered pistachio oil as a natur- al skin moisturizer. After experimental planti- n g s i n C a l i f o r n i a i n t h e 1920s, the US has become the world's largest consumer and second-biggest producer of pistachios. Most of them come from the Middle East, Turkey and Italy. Related to cashews, pista- chios grow on rugged trees that require little care, toler- ate poor soil, high tempera- t u r e s a n d s c a n t r a i n f a l l . Moisture and humidity are their detractors. The nuts bloom in clusters and when ripe, the shells split open as if they were smiling. The green color is derived from chlorophyll: the deeper the hue, the more intense the flavor and the higher the cost. The shell's natural cream color slowly turns light pink. W i t h m o s t o f t h e c r o p s CHUCK PECORARO late summer when the nuts are rich in nourishing oil and vitamin E, and the taste is sweet. Italian cooks often use them as an alternative to walnuts and almonds. Over the years, the popu- larity of roasted, salted pis- t a c h i o s s o a r e d a n d s o m e Sicilian growers turned to specialized cultivation and mechanical harvesting simi- lar to that used in California. Those grown in the Bronte area have become a rarity — very delectable, expensive and painstakingly harvested by shaking the trees by hand until the nuts drop to the ground. One mature tree is capa- ble of producing only 11 to 22 pounds of p i s t a c h i o s e v e r y t w o years. Harvesting includes hulling, drying and sorting, f o l l o w e d b y b l a n c h i n g t o remove the parchment-like skin. A common sight on Sicil- ian streets during late sum- mer and early winter is ven- d o r s h a w k i n g b a g s o f watermelon seeds, roasted chickpeas, salted peanuts and, of course, pistachios either salted or unsalted, in or out of the shell. Pistachio oil, usually sold in 8.8-ounce bottles, is mild- ly sweet and contributes bal- ance to salad dressings and color to seared or smoked salmon or scallops. To store them, refrigerate u n s h e l l e d n u t s i n s e a l e d containers for up to three months. Avoid storing them in a freezer. A s f o r f l a v o r , t h e s i l k y Sicilian variety is vibrant and herbal. In comparison, those from California are tasty in their own right, but rate second to t h e I t a l i a n b r a n d , i n t h e opinion of many cooks. Each February, the town o f C a t a n i a c e l e b r a t e s L a Festa di Sant' Agata in honor of its patron saint. Its culinary highlight is a feast featuring pastries made with pistachio paste. W i t h s e a f o o d o n t h e m e n u f o r m a n y h o l i d a y meals, pistachios can add a special flavor to fish dishes. H e r e , f o r e x a m p l e , i s t h e recipe for a pistachio sauce that endows salmon with an appealing accent. If wine is paired with the main course, Regaleali Nozzi D'Oro comes highly recommended. S a l m o n i n p i s t a c h i o sauce Ingredients (serve 4) 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg salt and pepper to taste 2 s l i c e s b r e a d , c r u s t s removed 3 tablespoons milk 1/2 cup shelled, unroast- ed, unsalted pistachios 1 garlic clove, peeled 2 t a b l e s p o o n s h e a v y cream 1 teaspoon sugar 4 8-ounce salmon filets or 1 2-pound salmon filet juice of 1/2 lemon 2 onions 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/3 cup hot chicken broth 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs parsley Directions P r e h e a t o v e n t o 4 5 0 . Break the egg into a bowl, discarding the egg white. Add olive oil and vinegar, then the nutmeg and a pinch of salt and pepper. Place the bread in bowl, pour in the milk and 2 table- spoons of water; let it soak for 10 minutes, then squeeze the bread, discarding the excess liquid. Chop and lightly toast at 400F pistachios for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the soaked bread to the egg yolk, then stir in the cream, sugar, pistachios and garlic. S p r i n k l e s a l m o n f i l e t s with lemon juice, salt and pepper, then finely mince onions and cook for 5 min- utes over medium heat, until they are soft and golden. Place the salmon atop the o n i o n s , t h e n p o u r i n t h e chicken broth, and add the bay leaf. Cook for 15 minutes. Once ready, remove the bay leaf and pour the sauce over the fish. Bake the salmon uncov- ered for 10 minutes Serve hot, garnished with sprigs of parsley. With all the history and flavor in these toothsome lit- tle kernels, it's simple and painless to see why it's so easy to go nuts over pista- chios. A bowl of shelled pistachios. Pistachios can be used in many recipes, both sweet and savory (Photo: Quanthem/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES It's easy to go nuts over pistachios imported from the Middle East, some shells are dyed r e d t o p r o v i d e a b r i g h t e r look. In Italy, pistachios are a product of Sicily, specifical- ly from Bronte and Adra- no in the Catania region, where the terrain is arid and covered with lava rocks con- taining mineral salt. The unique microclimate and soil characteristics com- bine to produce the vibrant pistachio for which Sicily is noted. Harvesting occurs in

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