L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 6 L'Italo-Americano L ake Como might w e l l b e o n e o f t h e m o s t s p e c - tacular areas of n a t u r a l a n d manmade beauty in all of Italy, if not in all the world. Popular villages and towns s u c h a s B e l l a g i o , L e c c o , Menaggio, and Laglio attract the rich and the famous, as well as throngs of beauty- s e e k i n g t o u r i s t s . C o m o ' s pristine waters reflecting Alpine peaks, lush forests and rocky shores, collections of elegant villas and castles: all combine to create a visual m a s t e r p i e c e … a n d s o m e uncomfortably crowded sce- narios amongst these lake- side hotspots. T h e r e ' s g o o d n e w s , though, for those who seek a slower pace and the lesser- k n o w n g e m s h i d d e n amongst the well-known. Tiny Olgiasca is one such place, a petite village that n o b l y h o l d s " v e r y s m a l l place" status on Places in the World rankings. Spec- tacular beauty is abundant… but crowds are not! Sitting on a small, finger- like peninsula on the upper reaches of Como, Olgiasca's location is fitting in compar- ison to the "running man" l e g s o f L a k e C o m o ' s expanse. The tiny village of 2 4 1 r e s i d e n t s i s l o c a t e d a b o u t 5 7 m i l e s n o r t h o f Milan – not too far from the big city, but also light years away. Not a lot goes on here, w h i c h i s p r e c i s e l y t h e appeal. In fact, a check on Wikipedia offers just four sentences about the village. Perhaps the saying "a pic- t u r e i s w o r t h a t h o u s a n d words" might well apply. A recent week spent in Olgiasca quickly revealed her charms and the beauty that quietly awaits anyone willing to slow down and discover. I decided to take a chance and get to know the village, as well as make it the launch for exploring nearby locales. The word "disap- pointment" only occurred once after a day trip south to revisit lovely Varenna. Still lovely, yes, but overrun with tourists in comparison to a visit four or five years ago. What joy to return to the p e a c e f u l v i l l a g e o n t h e peninsula. Olgiasca's centro stori- co – old town – is a charm- ing jumble of ancient stone homes laced together with pebbled pathways and gar- dens. Life is vibrant here, although few residents may be encounter ed. Laundr y hung to dry from balconies, tricycles parked by the door- way, gardens yielding the last of the summer's bounty all speak of vitality in a town that's been around since at least the 12th century. A few newer homes rim the old town, either high on the hill f o r m a g n i f i c e n t v i e w s o r alongside the lake for that waterfront property experi- ence. Abundant rainfall cre- ates a lush, even tropical- l i k e , l a n d s c a p e w h e r e everything seems to flourish, including Alpine wildflowers that mingle in open fields. T h e r e i s b u t o n e p a r i s h church, and like the village, its ancient walls host vibrat- ing life within. A few commercial entities exist on the lower level of Olgiasca, but perhaps the thing that draws the curious t h e m o s t i s t h e a c h i n g l y b e a u t i f u l A b b a z i a d i Piona. Located at the cli- m a x o f a c o b b l e d s t r e e t , which gives way to a bumpy e a r t h e n r o a d , t h e a b b e y occupies land whose reli- gious origins began in the 7th century. It's a beautiful stroll from central Olgiasca; views of the lake, shaded forests, and a mysterious dwelling or two make good c o m p a n y . Y o u m i g h t encounter another person, maybe a few, but the sereni- ty is delightful. Entering the grounds, one is welcomed y e t c a u t i o n e d : t h i s i s a n a c t i v e m o n a s t e r y , p l e a s e respect the silence and holi- ness of this place. Well-man- i c u r e d l a n d s c a p i n g , t h e ancient abbey, a picturesque grotto, and lakefront vistas t h a t a r e m a d e o f d r e a m s round out a pleasant hour or two here. Stop by the shop featuring goods made by the resident Cistercian monks. There are herbal cures for just about any ailment, a few alcoholic tonics that can be sampled, soaps, and other trinkets all available for pur- chase with proceeds helping t o s u p p o r t t h e s e c l u d e d brotherhood. Outsiders are also welcomed to attend the nightly vespers, and while it seems few do, it's worth the effort. O n e c o u l d e a s i l y w i l e away indefinite amounts of time living in the moment in Olgiasca, but there are sev- eral nearby places deserving of a visit. To the south about one mile lies tiny Dorio. Almost as small as Olgiasca but with the benefit of loca- tion on the main thorough- fare, this shorefront village supports a train station and ferry port. An inviting water- front perfect for strolling or finding a park bench for a reflective pause with a nice glass of wine is hard to pass up. As with Olgiasca, not m u c h g o e s o n h e r e – b u t therein lies the beauty! If you're feeling the need for a bit more "to do," con- t i n u e s o u t h 7 m i l e s t o D e r v i o , O l g i a s c a a n d D o r i o ' s l a r g e r n e i g h b o r , p o p u l a t i o n 3 , 0 0 0 . A p i c - turesque work-a-day town, Dervio is home to a unique historic attraction, a village within a village known as C o r e n n o P l i n e o . T h e medieval hamlet's stoic cas- tle overlooks the lake, a fit- ting template for a fairy tale a n d g u a r d i a n t o t h e s u r - r o u n d i n g d w e l l i n g s . O n e c a n ' t h e l p b u t w a n t t o explore this "Village of One Thousand Steps." Official documentation affirms the presence of a castle here in 1271, along with the small but elaborate church dedi- cated to St. Thomas of Can- terbury, all built atop a prior Roman settlement. The sur- r o u n d i n g v i l l a g e s e e m s frozen in time as it spills out f r o m t h e c a s t l e w a l l s , a n almost vertical collection of ancient tiny homes, secre- tive porticos, and narrow paths carved from the rock. The scalotte, the 493 stone steps that do seem like one thousand, entice one down the waterfront where stun- ning views await from the ancient stone pier. If the timing is right, you might c h a n c e u p o n a n o p e n - a i r concert serenading the wan- ing sun. For the more adventur- ous, the final segment of an old Roman pathway – Sen- t i e r o d e l V i a n d a n t e – begins in Dervio with culmi- nation in Colico, just a few miles north of Olgiasca. This antiquated mule path passes h i g h a b o v e t h e l a k e a s i t winds through forests and pinnacles, traversing impos- sibly stacked rock walls held together by mortar and time, through abandoned stone villages, and past a few tiny communities clinging to life on the mountainside. Of course, you could opt out early and hike down into O l g i a s c a t o s a t i a t e y o u r hunger in a "crotto" restau- rant just outside the village. Built adjacent, or even with- in, a naturally air-cooled cave, the "crotti" eateries of this region are known for their hearty local cuisine. Surprisingly, it's not all lake fish dishes. Meat, cheese, a n d b u t t e r f i g u r e p r o m i - nently, along with pasta and p o l e n t a s p e c i a l t i e s . . . y o u w o n ' t w a l k a w a y h u n g r y here. Lake Como indisputably has much to offer, despite crowded conditions in the more touristed places. But if tranquility matters, don't forget about the "very small p l a c e s " … b e g i n n i n g w i t h charming Olgiasca. Olgiasca - Lake Como's "very small place" PAULA REYNOLDS The little-known but beautiful village of Olgiasca (Photo: Elena Pavlovich/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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