L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 29, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano T he Eternal City, as we all know, can't be fully dis- c o v e r e d i n a w e e k . O f t e n neglected despite its central location is the vibrant neigh- b o r h o o d o f T e s t a c c i o . Today, we'll dive deep into this charming Roman dis- trict and highlight why it's a must-visit destination for anyone keen on Italian gas- tronomy and cultural experi- ences. Situated within the heart of Rome, Testaccio's conve- nient location makes it a hub for those looking to explore t h e c i t y , w h e t h e r o v e r a weekend or a longer stay. The neighborhood is easily accessible, served by metro line B, trams, and buses, and if visitors decide to move a r o u n d o n f o o t , t h e y c a n stroll from Testaccio to cen- t r a l R o m e w i t h i n h a l f a n hour, passing landmarks like Circus Maximus or the Jew- ish Ghetto. If you like the idea of making Testaccio your Roman holidays' head- quarters, you'll be happy to know that the area offers v a r i o u s a c c o m m o d a t i o n options, from bed and break- fasts to hotels. Its proximity to the historic district of Trastevere, another must-see area of the Capital, and easy connections to train stations and airports, further add to its allure. The charm of Testaccio lies in its traditional spirit and authenticity: as you meander its streets, you can catch a breath of authentic Roman air and soak in the lively chatter of locals. This neighborhood, the roots of which are truly popolari, as we say in Italian, remains inhabited by Romans and it's, perhaps, as authentic as you can get in the capital. O b s e r v i n g t h e m o r n i n g activity around the Piazza Testaccio, the heart of the district with its Anfore Foun- tain, offers a distinct slice of Roman life you'll struggle to find elsewhere. There is a lot to see and do, here in Testaccio. You c o u l d s t a r t f r o m t h e o l d slaughterhouse, now con- verted into a cultural center known as the Mattatoio. This historic site, once the largest slaughterhouse in Europe, is home to a con- temporary art museum, a school of architecture, and various other cultural spaces. T h e o l d M a t t a t o i o t r u l y embodies Testaccio's trans- formation from a blue-collar neighborhood to a hub of creativity and art. Of course, y o u s h o u l d n ' t m i s s t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o c l i m b u p t h e M o n t e d e i C o c c i , or Monte Testaccio, from where the area inherited its name This artificial mound, made entirely of discarded Roman amphoras, offers a panoramic view of the Tes- taccio district and the city beyond. The traces of ancient pottery tell a fascinating tale of Rome's trade and com- mercial practices during the time of the Empire. In the northwestern part of the district, you'll find the Protestant Cemetery, a truly serene oasis in the noise and bustle of the city: this spot is the final resting place of notable poets like John Keats and Percy Shel- ley. Its tranquility, combined with the beauty of the tomb- stones and sculptures, make it a place of interest for histo- ry buffs and lovers of litera- ture alike. And of course, don't forget to take a walk along the Tiber river banks. The area, known as the Lungotevere Tes- taccio, is a popular spot for locals to relax, jog, or enjoy a n e v e n i n g s t r o l l . A s y o u walk, you can admire the Ponte Testaccio, a bridge dating back to 1868, that adds another layer to the n e i g h b o r h o o d ' s h i s t o r i c charm. What if you get hungry? Well, no worries, because Testaccio is considered a bit o f a f o o d y d e s t i n a t i o n these days. Visitors shouldn't miss the bustling Nuovo Mercato Testaccio, locat- ed opposite the already men- tioned old Mattatoio. Its stalls teem with fresh fruits, bread, meats, and seafood, while food kiosks provide a tempting array of treats. Tra- ditional and novel culinary delights coexist here: a bowl of tripe or an allesso sand- wich, a slice of pizza, or a refreshing juice can fuel your exploration. The market also s h o w c a s e s g l i m p s e s o f ancient walls beneath its floor, adding a layer of histo- ry to the vibrant atmosphere. But Testaccio's gastro- n o m i c e x p e r i e n c e t r u l y shines as the sun sets, when the neighborhood transforms from a day hub of original FRANCESCA BEZZONE inhabitants to an evening h o t s p o t f o r R o m a n nightlife. The dining scene offers everything from tradi- tional Roman osterias and restaurants, serving dishes l i k e c a c i o e p e p e , c a r - bonara, pajata, and amatri- c i a n a , t o c o n t e m p o r a r y eateries featuring interna- tional cuisines and creative gastronomy. The fierce com- petition to claim the title of Rome's best trattoria adds a delightful edge to the gastro- nomic scene. T h e r e i s m o r e b e c a u s e s i n c e 2 0 2 1 T e s t a c c i o h a s been home to the Collettivo Gastronomico (Gastro- nomic Collective), a group of gastronomic professionals who, through a project part- n e r s h i p w i t h t h e c o n s o r - tium Città dell'Altra Econo- m i a , a i m s t o e l e v a t e t h e d i s t r i c t ' s c u l i n a r y s c e n e . The Collettivo works to inter- twine the district's history and gastronomic tradition with a creative twist. The team, composed of Marco Morello of FoodBox, Daniele C a m p o n e s c h i o f M e n a b ò Vino e Cucina, and Pasquale Livieri and Edoardo Iervoli- no, among others, seeks to promote a culinary offering that is solid, distinct in fla- vors, and open to interna- t i o n a l i n f l u e n c e s . I t a l s o wants to be a representation of the city's agricultural and pastoral tradition: in their menu, history takes center stage, along with the many influences that keep Rome's culinary panorama so lively. The Collettivo maintains a space for vegetarian dishes a n d p a y s h o m a g e t o t h e region's gastronomic her- itage, ensuring that their activities reflect the transfor- m a t i o n t h e d i s t r i c t h a s undergone from its origins. If you think about it, ancient Roman cuisine was just like that, a mix of all the influ- ences and people that formed the Empire, an idea that the Collettivo certainly follows with its bringing together dif- ferent techniques and tradi- tions, while always keeping in line with seasonal avail- ability of ingredients. Testaccio is the union of the old and the new, a place where tradition and innova- t i o n m e r g e t o p r o v i d e a unique cultural and gastro- nomic experience. It invites g u e s t s t o i m m e r s e t h e m - selves in its rich cultural nar- rative, a heady but pleasant blend of flavors, music, cul- ture, and community activi- ties that define the district. If you're visiting Rome, don't miss out on the opportunity to take a walk through Tes- taccio's streets – a journey that will charm your senses a n d f i l l y o u r h e a r t w i t h Roman spirit. Testaccio: a stroll through Rome's unexplored epicurean paradise Selling fresh vegetables at the Testaccio market (Photo: Sjors Gijsbers/Shutterstock) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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