L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 24 2023 www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano T urin: the first capital of Italy, a beautiful city steeped in magnif- icent baroque ar- chitecture, verdant parks, and crowned like magic by the Alps. A place of tradition and history, where something un- expected is unfolding. Many know that Turin's region, Piemonte, is the cra- dle of Italy's slow food move- ment and the city itself is known for its culinary tradi- tion... But recently, a new g a s t r o n o m i c d a r l i n g h a s t a k e n c e n t e r s t a g e . M e e t the Crubik - a reinvention of the classic croissant hailing from the historic Farmacia del Cambio that has been causing quite a stir in the city's culinary circles. But let us begin... from the begin- ning. L o c a t e d i n t h e h e a r t o f Turin, Farmacia del Cambio, a heritage local eatery, is no stranger to praise for its culi- nary prowess, which expertly brings together tradition with creativity. The place has a pretty long and interesting h i s t o r y t h a t g o e s h a n d i n hand with that of another Turinese culinary institution, the Ristorante del Cam- bio - more about it below. F a r m a c i a d e l C a m b i o ' s beginnings date back to 1833 when it was known as Far- m a c i a B e s t e n t e , a n apothecary shop situated in the grand Piazza Carignano, one of the most beautiful and characteristic locations in the city. Farmacia Bestente, per- haps to be on par with the place its doors opened onto, was not only known for its medicaments but also for the b e a u t y o f i t s i n t r i c a t e l y carved woodwork and histor- ical ceramic vases brimming with spices and remedies. The establishment reinvented i t s e l f t o w a r d s t h e e n d o f 2 0 1 4 , s o o n a f t e r t h e h i s - toric Ristorante del Cam- bio made its comeback. The Farmacia del Cam- bio bistrot now stands as a shining beacon in the del Cambio world, as noted on its website, and offers an array of gastronomic experiences, f r o m a c o z y b i s t r o t t o a n indulgent ice cream parlor to a tempting patisserie, confec- tionery, and a gourmet deli. In short, Farmacia del Cam- bio evolved into a gastro- nomic paradise. Here, visi- tors can choose among an array of handmade delicacies crafted by their pastry chefs or try savory dishes created by Matteo Baronetto, chef of Ristorante del Cambio, who studied with Gualtiero Marchesi and collaborated with Carlo Cracco before tak- i n g u p t h e r e i n s o f t h e famous Turinese restaurant. I f t h e y p r e f e r s o m e t h i n g stronger, they can just sit in the outdoor area sipping a Negroni for aperitivo, while taking in the baroque ele- gance of Piazza Carignano. Farmacia del Cambio is a l s o k n o w n f o r i t s " b a c k shop" from where you can take a peek into the bustling kitchen of the other half of the Del Cambio world, the M i c h e l i n - s t a r r e d a n d already-mentioned Ristoran- te del Cambio. Now, let me spend a cou- p l e o f w o r d s a b o u t t h i s incredible place because it truly deserves it. Its doors h a v e b e e n w e l c o m i n g p a t r o n s s i n c e O c t o b e r 5 , 1757: how much history did its grand halls see! Ristoran- te del Cambio welcomed the men and women who made Italy during Risorgimento, between 1821 and 1861, with Count Cavour being a habitu- al patron. Throughout its three centuries of life, many more famous artists, com- posers, singers, and actors sat at its tables: from Casano- va to Puccini, from Balzac to N i e t z s c h e , f r o m V e r d i t o Marinetti and D'Annunzio. And then, the Agnelli family, the writer Mario Soldati and oh! so many divas: Eleonora D u s e - p e r h a p s w i t h h e r famous lover, D'Annunzio - Maria Callas, Audrey Hep- burn ... But let's delve now into the reason you are reading t h i s a r t i c l e : t h e C r u b i k , Turin's first cubic crois- s a n t . L i k e i t s n a m e s a k e , the Rubik's cube - iconic tridimensional brain teaser from the 1970s - the Crubik is quirky but unforgettable: this geometrically perfect cube is not just a pastry mas- terpiece, it's absolutely deli- cious. Peeling back the layers o f t h e C r u b i k r e v e a l s t h e magic within: the first bite is a perfect mix of crisp and buttery textures, but the rev- elation lies in the center - lay- ers of mouth-watering, fluffy p a s t r y i n t e r s p e r s e d w i t h sumptuous fillings. From classic cream to indulgent chocolate, the Crubik's fill- i n g s a r e t h e h e a r t o f t h i s unique treat, an amalgama- tion of flavors and textures that is all the more fantastic if you have with coffee. This trend-setting cube- shaped croissant, an idea conceived by the innovative team led by Baronetto, traces its roots back to 2019. It all started with an experiment to bake a croissant base within square molds, typically used for savory dishes. Baronetto's hunch turned out to be a hit, and the Crubik was born. A l t h o u g h i t w a s n ' t a n overnight sensation due to the pandemic, its popularity has soared in recent times, with people queuing up out- side Farmacia del Cambio or placing their early morning o r d e r s o v e r t h e p h o n e t o ensure they don't miss out on their favorite breakfast treat. With the Crubik, Farma- cia del Cambio pays tribute to its storied past while also charting a new path for the future: this gastronomic gem is much more than a reinven- tion of the croissant, a pastry t y p i c a l l y a s s o c i a t e d w i t h France and Italy's northern regions. The Crubik's distinc- t i v e c u b e s h a p e , w h i c h Baronetto fondly compares to the cobblestones of Piazza C a r i g n a n o i n i n t e r v i e w s , doesn't compromise on the cherished flaky texture that croissant lovers are fond of. Such is the acclaim of the Crubik that its introduction has catapulted it to the top of the must-try list for locals a n d t o u r i s t s a l i k e . A s a n homage to Turin's tradition of culinary innovation, the Crubik goes beyond a mere breakfast item. It pays tribute to creativity in the kitchen and how it can turn an every- day pastry into an edible art f o r m , b o t h v i s u a l l y c o m - pelling and gastronomically gratifying. So, if you find yourself in Turin, make sure you grab a Crubik – it's a piece of the city's evolving culinary history that you can h o l d , s e e , a n d t a s t e . B u t beware, there may be a queue for it: Farmacia del Cam- b i o o n l y m a k e s 1 5 0 e v e r y day! The Crubik: Turin's latest treat GIULIA FRANCESCHINI The famous Crubik, Turin's cubic croissant (Photo: Cavegirlphotography/Shutterstock) LIFE PEOPLE REVIEWS ADVICE TRADITIONS

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